newb with flight box questions
#1
Thread Starter

My Feedback: (28)
I just got a plane, And am now building a flight box. Room for fuel, remote, battery, starter. And a drawer or two. What items are a must have in your flight box?
Also, A question about fueling. You have your fuel jug. Do you drill holes through the top and glue the tubes into the cap to keep it closed? If you have a picture I would like to see one. Any other ideas welcome.
#2
For the fueling jug I use this hardware set: [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJ811&P=0]LINK[/link]
Its pretty easy to install and use and shouldn't require any glue. As for what you may want to have in your flightbox, here's a list:
1) Rubber bands (if your plane uses them)
2) Extra fuel tubing
3) Assorted screwdrivers and wrenches. I prefer to have those that are necessary to work on the plane's fittings.
4) Glow plug wrench
5) Propeller nut wrench (NOT the same as your four-way wrench. I carry a spanner for this)
6) Spare propellers.
7) Expanded Scale Voltmeter (NOT an option)
8) Fuel pump, starter/chicken stick, igniter
9) Spare glow plugs
10) Pliers (I scored a very nice little 6-piece set at Harbor Freight. They've been a lifesaver more than once already)
Additional items you may consider having:
Glue, paper towels/rag, extra clevises/control horns, any parts that you find breaks often on your craft, extra nylon bolts for wings and landing gear, quick charger that runs on 12 volts, large garbage bag (just in case
).
Hope this helps.
Its pretty easy to install and use and shouldn't require any glue. As for what you may want to have in your flightbox, here's a list:
1) Rubber bands (if your plane uses them)
2) Extra fuel tubing
3) Assorted screwdrivers and wrenches. I prefer to have those that are necessary to work on the plane's fittings.
4) Glow plug wrench
5) Propeller nut wrench (NOT the same as your four-way wrench. I carry a spanner for this)
6) Spare propellers.
7) Expanded Scale Voltmeter (NOT an option)
8) Fuel pump, starter/chicken stick, igniter
9) Spare glow plugs
10) Pliers (I scored a very nice little 6-piece set at Harbor Freight. They've been a lifesaver more than once already)
Additional items you may consider having:
Glue, paper towels/rag, extra clevises/control horns, any parts that you find breaks often on your craft, extra nylon bolts for wings and landing gear, quick charger that runs on 12 volts, large garbage bag (just in case
).Hope this helps.
#3

My Feedback: (1)
ORIGINAL: 1troy7
Also, A question about fueling. You have your fuel jug. Do you drill holes through the top and glue the tubes into the cap to keep it closed? If you have a picture I would like to see one. Any other ideas welcome.
Also, A question about fueling. You have your fuel jug. Do you drill holes through the top and glue the tubes into the cap to keep it closed? If you have a picture I would like to see one. Any other ideas welcome.
I use metal cans with metal caps. Two short brass tubes are inserted in holes through the cap and soldered. A clunk line to the bottom of one. Only use geared hand pumps. These are far better than 12 volt types and you can count the cranks defueling for easy fuel consumption checks. Safer too freeing the need for a power panel and battery when a portable starter and ignitor are used.
The pump is glues to the can with a thick pad of RTV.
John
#4
Senior Member
Everything Buckner said is very good advice.
You're right at the point of wasting money. Don't do it. You'll only spend the money once instead of twice, and you'll start out safer. Don't waste the money on a power panel and heavy lead battery.
Go the safe way from the start. Spend the money on a portable power pack for your starter. Starters on long wires are a hazard. Spend your money on a portable glowplug igniter. Glow igniters at the end of a wire connected to the flight box are a hazard.
Combine the usual two wires from one flight box, and one of them is going to have to pass around the propeller. Get rid of the wires and you've improved your starting safety a bunch.
And the weight of the battery is something you're going to have to lug around the rest of it's life. For what? So you can have to deal with two wires and the prop the rest of your life. And you wind up with almost no flexibility thanks to those wires. With the freedom of the portable starter and igniter, you can restart with the flight box comfortably out of the way. The more experienced flyers restart stalled airplanes anywhere. Saves lugging dead airplanes back to the pits.
Safety
Convenience
Safety
Less dead weight to lug around
Safety
BTW, I'm editing in a picture of my flight box showing the fueling setup I use. Hand crank pump. The fuel jug is a thick plastic one I found at a kitchen store. There are only two lines in/out of it. One is the pickup and goes to the pump. The fueling line from the pump plugs into the vent when not in use. In use, I unplug it and the jug is vented. The hose nozzle is from one of the fueling sets for models. The piece you're supposed to stick on the model's cowl is the vent in the jug. None of my airplanes have that expensive stuff on them. It's on the jug and fueling hose. The airplanes are fueled through the hoses from the airplanes tank. Just disconnect a hose, fuel through it, connect it back. No cost. No extra building effort.
You're right at the point of wasting money. Don't do it. You'll only spend the money once instead of twice, and you'll start out safer. Don't waste the money on a power panel and heavy lead battery.
Go the safe way from the start. Spend the money on a portable power pack for your starter. Starters on long wires are a hazard. Spend your money on a portable glowplug igniter. Glow igniters at the end of a wire connected to the flight box are a hazard.
Combine the usual two wires from one flight box, and one of them is going to have to pass around the propeller. Get rid of the wires and you've improved your starting safety a bunch.
And the weight of the battery is something you're going to have to lug around the rest of it's life. For what? So you can have to deal with two wires and the prop the rest of your life. And you wind up with almost no flexibility thanks to those wires. With the freedom of the portable starter and igniter, you can restart with the flight box comfortably out of the way. The more experienced flyers restart stalled airplanes anywhere. Saves lugging dead airplanes back to the pits.
Safety
Convenience
Safety
Less dead weight to lug around
Safety
BTW, I'm editing in a picture of my flight box showing the fueling setup I use. Hand crank pump. The fuel jug is a thick plastic one I found at a kitchen store. There are only two lines in/out of it. One is the pickup and goes to the pump. The fueling line from the pump plugs into the vent when not in use. In use, I unplug it and the jug is vented. The hose nozzle is from one of the fueling sets for models. The piece you're supposed to stick on the model's cowl is the vent in the jug. None of my airplanes have that expensive stuff on them. It's on the jug and fueling hose. The airplanes are fueled through the hoses from the airplanes tank. Just disconnect a hose, fuel through it, connect it back. No cost. No extra building effort.
#5
I have a 40 OZ. fuel tank in the bottom of my field box which I fill up and then fill my planes from. Some days I have to refill it a few times during the day, other days not so much. Depends on which size planes I am flying. I am thinking about going to a larger tank.



