Losing Fuel Pressure
#1
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From: Bloomington, IL
Hello. I was needing some help and hoping somebody could assist in figuring this out with me. I have the hanger 9 alpha 40 rtf, with the evolution .46 motor, and i have had some issues that my club cant figure out. I can get it to run fine if it is level but as soon as i pitch up, ie takeoff or a climb, she just seems to lose fuel pressure. We have tried to up the mixture, i changed fuels, went from a 10 nitro to a 15 it did give it more power but in a climb she will stall out. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks.
Thanks.
#2
When you say it loses fuel pressure, I'm assuming you mean it's fuel starved.
Have you checked the fuel tank clunk to make sure it hasn't moved and stuck forward (towards the engine)?
Have you checked the fuel tank clunk to make sure it hasn't moved and stuck forward (towards the engine)?
#3

First, has it EVER run properly??
Have you checked that all of the hoses are connected in the correct places both inside and outside of the tank?
When it quits, does it accelerate briefly like it's going lean? Air bubbles visable in the fuel line?
Have you replaced any of the fuel line before or since the problems started or had a hard landing or rapid deceleration landing?
You do have muffler pressure connected?
Have you checked that all of the hoses are connected in the correct places both inside and outside of the tank?
When it quits, does it accelerate briefly like it's going lean? Air bubbles visable in the fuel line?
Have you replaced any of the fuel line before or since the problems started or had a hard landing or rapid deceleration landing?
You do have muffler pressure connected?
#4
Start by checking ALL of the hoses for splits. Often the fuel line form the high speed needle to the carb cracks, and you cannot see it, at the nipple. Check that the clunk does not sit up against the back of the fuel tank. e.g. there should be SOME seperation from the back wall of the tank.
Loosen the carb hold down screw and seat the carb fully, and while holding it with some force with a clamp, tighten the screw back down.
Also tighten all of the cap screws.
Next remove the LOW SPEED "collar" ( the blue thing with the pin ).
Then with the throttle closed ( use the radio to do this ) turn the low speed needle IN until it bottoms out. DO NOT FORCE IT!
As you do this count the precise number of turns and write it down.
Now remove the low speed needle and apply a SMALL drop of Loctite only on the threads. DO NOT get Loctite on the rubber rings.
Put it back in exactly as you had it before, but this time with no blue collar.
Do the same for the high speed needle and tighten the "Bic Pen" retaining/friction clip too.
Start the engine and retune with 1/2 of a tank of fuel, no more.
Since the plane is new it will not really "settle" in until it has gone through about a gallon of fuel. Bear this in mind.
Run the throttle up fully and bring the nose up.
Does the engine seem to stop almost immediately or slow down as you bring the nose up? If so richen the high end needle 1/8 turn and try again until the engine continues to run fine.
Now still at full throttle do a nose down test. The engine SHOULD slow down a bit, but it should continue to run if you have the high speed needle set properly.
Once you have this working, it's time to set the low speed.
With the engine at idle pinch the fuel line for about 1/2 a second. You should hear the engine speed up a bit but it should NOT die out.
If the engine dies out, richen the low speed.
Now, run the engine at full throttle for a few seconds and bring it back to idle.
Let the plane sit idling for 2-3 minutes. As it does this there should be NO or only a slight tendancy to slow down and the engine should continue to run.
If the engine slows down lean the low end a tad and see if the idle improves.
Once it idles consistently gun the engine quickly. The runup should be smooth with no hesitation.
Finally with the engine at idle perform a nose up test. The engine should NOT cut out. If it does it's too lean.
Fill the tank and then perform a nose down test. If the engine cuts out, it's too rich.
----
Evolution engines tend to have the limiters "walk" as the plane heats up and you move the throttle.
You could have the plane perfectly tuned only to find that it will detune itself over time.
The above helps to prevent the needle "walking".
Loosen the carb hold down screw and seat the carb fully, and while holding it with some force with a clamp, tighten the screw back down.
Also tighten all of the cap screws.
Next remove the LOW SPEED "collar" ( the blue thing with the pin ).
Then with the throttle closed ( use the radio to do this ) turn the low speed needle IN until it bottoms out. DO NOT FORCE IT!
As you do this count the precise number of turns and write it down.
Now remove the low speed needle and apply a SMALL drop of Loctite only on the threads. DO NOT get Loctite on the rubber rings.
Put it back in exactly as you had it before, but this time with no blue collar.
Do the same for the high speed needle and tighten the "Bic Pen" retaining/friction clip too.
Start the engine and retune with 1/2 of a tank of fuel, no more.
Since the plane is new it will not really "settle" in until it has gone through about a gallon of fuel. Bear this in mind.
Run the throttle up fully and bring the nose up.
Does the engine seem to stop almost immediately or slow down as you bring the nose up? If so richen the high end needle 1/8 turn and try again until the engine continues to run fine.
Now still at full throttle do a nose down test. The engine SHOULD slow down a bit, but it should continue to run if you have the high speed needle set properly.
Once you have this working, it's time to set the low speed.
With the engine at idle pinch the fuel line for about 1/2 a second. You should hear the engine speed up a bit but it should NOT die out.
If the engine dies out, richen the low speed.
Now, run the engine at full throttle for a few seconds and bring it back to idle.
Let the plane sit idling for 2-3 minutes. As it does this there should be NO or only a slight tendancy to slow down and the engine should continue to run.
If the engine slows down lean the low end a tad and see if the idle improves.
Once it idles consistently gun the engine quickly. The runup should be smooth with no hesitation.
Finally with the engine at idle perform a nose up test. The engine should NOT cut out. If it does it's too lean.
Fill the tank and then perform a nose down test. If the engine cuts out, it's too rich.
----
Evolution engines tend to have the limiters "walk" as the plane heats up and you move the throttle.
You could have the plane perfectly tuned only to find that it will detune itself over time.
The above helps to prevent the needle "walking".
#7
ORIGINAL: Flypaper 2
Set the carb with the nose pointed up.
Set the carb with the nose pointed up.
#9
Re: Richen
Richen up and die if standard tuning advice is followed.... not good.
Better to adjust it at 1/2 a tank level then perform the sustained nose up and then the nose down tests as I've outlined, particularly with the Evolution engines that have other problems associated with their limiters, etc.
Re: Lean out
That is why you want to tune the engine with 1/2 tank or less.
Shoot to eliminate problems in the worst case and the rest tends to follow.
Richen up and die if standard tuning advice is followed.... not good.
Better to adjust it at 1/2 a tank level then perform the sustained nose up and then the nose down tests as I've outlined, particularly with the Evolution engines that have other problems associated with their limiters, etc.
Re: Lean out
That is why you want to tune the engine with 1/2 tank or less.
Shoot to eliminate problems in the worst case and the rest tends to follow.




