When I put my Tower Trainer together I use clear nail polish over the leading edges of the trim to try to keep it down. Overall its done ok but it turns yellow. I'm going to start on my Kaos ARF and I'm sure I'll have the same issues with the trim. My question is. Is there some type of clear spray that would work to hold down the trim and not turn yellow?
Thanks

chopper man

Top-Flite Clear Kote works wonders.

I regularly use this on new planes.

Here's what I do....

I lightly "buff" the new covering with a plastic dish scrubber. Those things that look like plastic Brillo pads.
I then clean off anything left with a soft chamois.

I spray several LIGHT coats of Clear Kote on the plane, omitting any clear canopy items by masking them off.

After this I again buff the coating with the plastic scrubber until it attains a softer ever so slightly opaque finish.

It looks great when done. The plane is not quite as shiny as before, but the covering looks more authentic.

I've never had any trim or decal come up or off after doing this properly.

That's a great idea. I just don't want to go into that much work on this ARF. I went to the HS and purchase a small bottle of Aero Gloss by Midwest. It says it's a fuel proof dope. Part of the engine compartment is not fuel proofed. Will this work and can I spread a small amount over the trim to help hold it down as well?
Thanks
chopper man

I haven't tried dope over coverings so I couldn't speak to that.



The Top Flite stuff is easy to apply. While it can take a few coats, you only need to wait about 5-10 minutes between each.

You don't have to go crazy buffing it out either, just a once over does well.

why not just use your sealing iron?

On my trainer the trim was fine until it flown several time, them the trim started to lift. Fuel got under it and I was never able to reseal it. Trying to find a way to keep it from lifting up to begin with on my Kaos before I start flying it.
chopper man

Yup on Asian ARF's this becomes a problem within the first few flights.

Ultra/Monocoated planes seem to hold up longer, but they too can fall prey to this, as the nitro works it's way under the edges of the trim and dissolves the adhesive.

Nitro's a wonderful solvent.

----

Another coatiing which works is clear Krylon.

The Midwest Clear gloss will be perfect for your purposes. It will "tack" down your trim no problem over plastic film and will be nitro proof. Just use a brush and "paint" over your trim... it will never lift.

Thanks. Do you know if it will yellow over time?
chopper man

most guys test the iron on an out of sight spot and go over the edges before flying an arf or a kit. the coating should hold up for years. monokote turns slightly dark at the right temp (until it cools off), thats how i know its stuck down good.

heres a tip: clear monokote is great patch material... DON'T ASK HOW I KNOW

I think I'm going to sray with TF clear coat. Should I use the clear high gloss or flat clear? What would look better? Or, would it be better to brush the dope over the trim? Will you be able to see the brushed on dope? I'm to new to experiment and I don't want to screw up the Kaos.
Thanks
chopper man

Trainers are meant to be shiny for visibility so I would use the high Gloss. The Flat is more for warbirds like the Grey and brown Stuka. [8D]

I like the end result of using clear coat flat.

While it takes away the shinyness, it gives the planes a more realistic finish, particularly on warbirds.