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AIR LEAKS! Sealing engine and replacing o-rings

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Old 03-17-2003 | 08:55 AM
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Default AIR LEAKS! Sealing engine and replacing o-rings

Well, some of you might know me and my myriad of plane/engine problems by now (Superstar 40, OS Max 40-fp, 10% nitro and OS #3 plug, for those who don't). I've seen much progress, however I still find traces of oil on the bottom of the engine (it is much less after sealing the backplate and muffler), around the carb and on the needles.

Someone also responded to a previous post about me finding oil on the prop shaft and the guy said that it wasn't a good thing. I also find oil between the base of the spinner, near that flywheel part and the end of the engine, where the crankshaft comes out of. There is a space thats probably .1 mm thick. I can push and pull the prop and there is some play between there and I constantly find oil coming out of there. Is this normal?

Also, the engine still needs to be tuned everyday I start it, which leads me to believe there's still an air leak. The tuning isn't just a little opening or closing of the high/low speed needles either. I set it the last time I start it and the next time I start it it's incredibly rich and doesn't stay on.

I was thinking that I need to seal some more things and possibly replace o-rings. I don't know what else I should or could seal, though. I was thinking the carb? But I'm not sure.

As for the o-rings, I know which ones I need and I will probably replace all of them. Do you guys think I can handle this task or just pay to get it done? I'm relatively knew to this stuff but I have taken parts of the engine apart and back together but if you think it's beyond my skill please let me know. Thanks. (sorry for the long post)
Old 03-17-2003 | 10:35 AM
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From: Vandergrift, PA
Default AIR LEAKS! Sealing engine and replacing o-rings

Just curious....Have you made sure that the fuel lines/tank are not leaking?
Do this: take the line from the vent, and pinch it off. Take the line to the carb and blow into it, pinch it off, hold them for a few seconds, Then release the vent line...should have a nice stream of fuel squirt out.
If thats ok, try blowing into the vent line. Be sure you have a nice stream coming out the line to the carb.
Also...I usually remove the carb and put a little sealent around the base and set it back in the crankcase.
If these tips dont help, lastley, id try getting a chunk of fuel line, and slip it over the needle valve onto the carb body....Its a cheap way to see if the oring on the needle valve is worn out. Also...When is the last time you tried a Glo Plug and new washer...
These are things off the top of my head, hope they work for you.
Old 03-17-2003 | 12:08 PM
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Default AIR LEAKS! Sealing engine and replacing o-rings

When the piston moves down from the top of the cylinder presure is created in the crankcase pushing fuel out of nearly every opening in the engine. A little fuel and oil is needed to lubricate the front crankshaft bearing and some may escape out the front. If a lot escapes out the front that is not a good sign but there isn't much that can be done. It makes for eratic tuning just like a loose backplate would. The engine tuning varies from cold to hot etc.

Use Hi-temp silicone to seal muffler, and backplate - O-ring to seal carb and not much can be done about the front bearing in terms of sealing it.

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