I received my tower trainer to replace the one that I crashed and lost[] Before I put it togehter and fly I want to spray it with a clear coat of Top Flite spray. Should I lightly go over the covering with some 400 grit sandpaper, wipe clean and spray? Is the covering on the tower trainer compatiable with the Top Flite spray. I think this would keep all of the trim from coming up and getting fuel under it. Thanks for your input.
chopper man

I wouldn't recommend it. The better way to keep trim from coming up is just to go over it with a sealing iron before your first flight to seal it all down. That should keep it from coming up.

I did that with the first one and it just didn't last. I landed up trying to put fingure nail polish and some epoxy to keep it down.
chopper man

Spraying enough of that to do any good will add weight and likely ugly it up REAL quick.
Go over all the seams with an iron that is just hot enough to make the covering darken temporarily...this is SOP for ARFs anyway.
Sorry to here about you first bird. I hope you still have it cause it is amazing what can be rebuilt. at least scrounge every usable thing off of it wheels, LG, hardware. there is a ton of planes out there that you could use that on.

I was given a 60 size biplane crash (a Lew Andrews Aeromaster) It is a trash can case for most people but it is such a hard to find bird it WILL be rebuilt. also it can be a riot to build with other thing such as gutter pipes (SPADS) and base ball bats for fuses (combat planes) A trainer wing can be easily rebuilt no matter how bad if you remembered crash rule # 1 PICK UP ALL THE PIECES! balsa likes to go back together just do it STRAIGHT.

My Tower trainer had the same problem. I did iron down the covering and it held up pretty good. But could not get the decals to stick.
I don`t think spray it is a good fix, I think you`ll just create more problems.
I replaced the decals with monocoat and the windex trick.

I agree. I found a Seagull Extra 300 EP in one of the trash cans, its fuselage was crushed and some bulkheads were missing. What parts that were left were stuffed, along with the owner's manual, in the cab. The aluminum rod was bent beyond repair, and a wing tip was crushed (it must have hit a pole). I fixed it and sold it to someone who needed another ARF, at less than half the cost of a new one. The model was holding up and flew very well, the last time I saw it.

NorfolkSouthern

as far as the trim, just go over it with the iron, it will last pretty long then when it starts to come up again just seal it back down

I was never able to get them to stay down long. I was cleaning the plane with windex. I read somewhere that is a no no. Is that true?
chopper man

Between my sons and myself I have had 4 T/H Trainers. The covering would not stick on any of them. I done all the sugested tricks and none of them worked. One of them had so much clear packing tape on it that Tower .46 had a hard time getting it off of the ground. Fly it a while then get some covering experience with it. Using some quality covering of course.

chopper man , yes , it is true , windex will give you problems wit hyour covering , as when it leaches under the covering , it will render the glue useless , to the point where it wont stick down again , no matter what heat you put on it . Dish washing liquid and water in a spray bottle is what i find best , and cheaper .
Bill

Polyeurethane.

Polyeurethane. Yup that well do it , but it will probably cost more than the plane . lol

I think I'll just forget it and put the thing together and go fly. I've been flying the trainer about 9 months until my first crash. I was going to move on to my next plane but I just didn't feel 100% confident. So I hope that I will not be flying this trainer very long.
chopper man

Some misconceptions posted above by those who have never tried it.

I've done this with MANY planes.


1 - No DO NOT use sandpaper.

Instead use PLASTIC dishwashing pads to lightly go over the covering to remove anything stuck to the covering.

2 - Apply a LIGHT coat or three of Top Filte Clear cote then go over it again with the pads. This will remove any excess and make the remaining coating look uniform and good.

3 - You may add a final coat or two and go over it with pads, but usually this is not needed. You only need a light almost invisible film.


The Top Flite Clear coat adds NO appreciable weight ( I've done this with many planes and I've also checked their weight. ). The changes can be measured at LESS than 10 grams for a larger plane.

The Clear coat does a great job at preventing fuel from seaping under the existing covering, as it seals the exposed edges.

It will not however cause poor covering to adhere better.

You should first go over the existing covering with an iron, before doing this.

Applying the Top Flite coating will in the long run add LESS weight than the heavier CA ( which in itself doesn't add that much weight either... ).


Adding the coating does NOT "Ugly it up". If anything the plane remains looking good MUCH longer.


If you use the flat clear coat, covered warbirds will actually look MUCH better as they will not be so shiny.

The clear coat also keeps decals looking better. Their edges will not creap, or get fuel soaked.

Windex will not get under the sealed areas.

Oh what the heck. I'll give it a try on the vertical and see how it goes. I guess this is the plane to do it on before I try it on my Kaos. I can't believe that it would add that much weight to make a difference. But then again what do I know
chopper man

I went over the entire plane with the iron. My first Tower trainer was in pretty good shape as far as the covering. This one is not that great. After ironing down the trim real good I've gone over it with some clear fuel proof dope. I don't know if this will be of any benifit to keeping the trim from lifting, but I thought I would experiment. It looks great, you can't even tell I've done anything. Has anyone else done this to their plane with any success?
chopper man

In the thread where someone first suggested the TopFlite clear coat to me, they also mentioned using dope as well.

A couple of people swore by it, but one or two mentioned some slight discoloration problems over time.

Thanks. The only reason I didn't try the spray this time is because of time restraints. I'm going to try the clear sray on my Kaos when it's time. For now I'm happy with the way the dope has turned out. Hopefully the trim will not lift and if it does than lesson learned.
chopper

Well its been some time but I finnally got my replace Tower Trainer but together. Went out last night and flew it for the first time. Couldn't keep it in the air for long becasuse of the sun right in the face. It seem to do ok. It really didn't need any trim. I but a Magnum .46 in it and that caused me to have to put two full strips of lead weight as far back in the fusalage as I could get them. Wasn't easy but the CG worked out perfect. I hated to put that much weight in it but the Magnum didn't really seen to care. Oh by the way I did put a lost aircraft alarm in her 1st time shame on them 2nd time shame on me

chopper man

OK a good rule of thumb is to yeild to experience just be aware his KEY WORDS are LITE COATINGS. its a trainer its suposed to be for learning so go for it...lightly