I am starting a sig 4*60 arf and I need some help on the subject of glues and epoxy. I have no idea on what to use or how much I will need. Thanks for any help. Gene

I used to use CA's for my building but about 4 years ago I switched to Elmer's Carpenter's Glue, and I won't go back to the CA's. I feel that my building has improved since I've switched because I have more time to get a joint positioned correctly before the glue sets and you don't get those hard knots in the wood that are impossible to sand. Also I didn't like the reaction my body has to the CA fumes. Many call it a CA allergy, but after I've talked to a few doctors and a couple of chemists I find that it's not an allergy but a simple chemical reaction in your body. The CA fumes react with the moisture in your nose, throat, and lungs to produce some very bad reactions. Over time these reactions can become worse with repeated exposure. I've seen people that can hardly breath for 3 days after using it. I wanted to avoid that from happening before it got to that point. So..... here's what I use for my building.
[ul][*] Elmer's Carpenter's Glue - This is my main adhesive. I use it for the majority of building with balsa and wood to wood contact. For ply's and harder woods I will use epoxy[*] 5 minute epoxy - I do have this around but I very rarerly use it. I will usually use 30 minute, but I have the 5 minute around for quick uses that aren't in critical areas of the plane.[*] 30 minute epoxy - I use this for critical stress areas on the plane such as wing joints, firewall attachments, horizontal and vertical stabilizer, securing hinge points, and other high stress critical areas.[*] CA's - Yes, I know I said I didn't use these but that's not entirely true. I still use them for a couple of things. I keep thin CA around for hardening threads cut into wood for such things as wing bolts. I may also use it to help hold large constructions together while the Elmer's sets. I will put a couple of small drops on the wood to hold it all together while the wood glue dries. I also do reviews for RCU and I use the proper thickness CA adhesive that is called for in the instructions. I do this because we try to do review planes as the instructions call for. I do have medium and thick CA around but don't use them much. Especially the thick, too many people try to use thick CA to fill up gaps in wood joints but this can be bad, it can lead to a false sense of security because the joint will be weak. Nothing beats wood to wood contact in a joint.[*] Formula 560 - This is a canopy adhesive and that's exactly what I use it for, for attaching the canopy to the fuselage[*] Gorilla Glue - I don't use this glue too much because of the way it expands while setting up. This can be bad if you don't have the area secured properly because it can push the parts out of position before it dries. But I've found that it does have several really good uses, one especially good is if you have areas that need to be filled and secured. You can apply the glue and a little water and the glue will expand out into the area you want to fill.[*] Thread locks - Self-explanatory. I use thread lock to keep nuts and screws in place. Always use blue thread lock so you can remove the nut or screw later. Never ever use red thread lock because it's permenant, you won't get your nut or screw off ever again.[*] 3M 77 spray adhesive - This is some great stuff that has lots of uses in our hobby. One that comes to mind right off the bat is when doing cockpits. You can use this spray adhesive to hold items like printed instrument panels in place.
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Well, that's about all I can think of right now.

Your instruction manual should usually(but not always) tell you what to use and when. Trainer kits are usually very specific,but your arf might not be. Its been my experience that beginner plane manuals give you gluing details and intermediate plane manuals are vague. I guess they assume since your an intermediate pilot you should already know. Not sure what your plane is. Its good to have on hand .......2oz thin CA,2oz medium CA,CA activator,at least 4 oz of 5 minute epoxy and at least 4 oz of 30 minute epoxy. I like CA,but PLEEEEASE be careful with that CA glue if you've never used it before. It will bond your skin instantly and you'll never feel it getting on you. And it will find your skin no matter how you hold a part. Use whatever the instructions tell you to use and if they dont tell you,make an intelligent choice based on how much holding power the parts will need and how long you'll need to play with it before it sets up.

30 min epoxy is the strongest because it takes longer to dry,thus it can soak in deaper into the wood,but it takes forever to dry.

5 min epoxy is strong too,but sets up in 5 min,sometimes less,not giving you time to play,but dries fast so you can move on.

CA is crazy stuff and excellent for all kinds of stuff,but its kinda tough,but brittle(not sure if thats the best word), so dont go joining any wing halves together or anything like that.

i use 3 adhesives;

1: Cyanoacrylite (C.A.) - used for general purpose glueing, stringers to formers for example, never used on anything that will be under stress when in flight

2: 1 hour epoxy - usefull for the load-bearing places, i.e. Firewall, landing gear block and such, this is strong stuff so use sparingly

3: PVA glue - this is great for glueing canopys, it dries clear and does make the canopy go all cloudy like CA would, also comes in handy on free-flight models for holding the tissue covering on

Right on RCKen. I agree with you 100%.
My comment on CA is that before I heard of the reaction I used it a lot. One day I was building a TF Corsair in my garage with the doors closed and in a few hours my lungs hurt. I did not know why. I have no breathing problems and I don't smoke. Then I read here on RCU about CA and the reaction it causes.
Sometimes it is the preferred adhesive for the task at hand. If I do use it I wear a mask and have a fan ventilating the area, just to be safe.

If going to use Epoxy try to get the Epoxy that comes in seperate bottles such as Hanger 9. It is much easier to use than the Epoxy you get at a local Hardware store. That stuff is in a kinda premix stuff with a plunger that pushes the two mixtures out at the same time. It works ok the very first time you use it then ones side or the other will stop up or get air or something and will not work right and very hard to use and get the same amount of each out. The other is easy squirt some out of one bottle and then the same out of another no mess no fuss and cheaper (ALOT) in the long run. Best to have atleast 5min. and 30min. Some fixes take a little longer. I am not that good a flyer but pretty good at fixing after i try lol.

I use thin and thick CA exclusively. Thin on balsa-to-balsa joints and a combination of thin and thick on balsa-to-ply, ply-to-ply, or any hardwood joints.

First, be sure the joint is tight - no gaps. No glue will hold reliably across open air.

Drop thin CA into balsa joints about every 1/2". It will flow into the joint and create a solid glue line.

Fill ply joints until with thin until it won't soak in any more, then create a small fillet with thick.

Epoxy, especially the fast-set types, won't soak into the wood grain enough to create a really strong joint. It's good for fuel-proofing and metal joints.

Dr.1