For CAing most balsa to balsa joints, you only need one drop per square inch contact area.

First, you adjust the fit between parts as well as possible.

With the medium CA, angle the jont to alow the glue space to flow in, apply CA and immediately get the parts back in position.

With thin CA, you hold or clamp parts in exact position, and apply at the crack between parts, allowing the capilary action to draw the glue in.

With thick CA, you apply the droplet of CA to the edge grain part and then stick the end grain part onto it.

**********
For beginning builders especially, I recommend replacing most CA with a yellow glue such as Elmer's Carpenter's Glue. Its easier to work with, more forgiving of errors, easier to clean up and MUCH cheaper. Apply just a bit more volume than when using thick CA, just enough that some gets squished out when you fit the pieces together. Always apply yellow glue to the more open grain part first, to allow better bonding. (opposite of CA...which gets put on the more closed grain part)

Yellow glue is far superior to CA for joining Lite Ply, or for any lamination of doublers. You'll use much less glue and save weight to obtain the same (or better) strength.

****

Any glue will be stronger than the wood you are joning if applied properly... Just some have better properties for different applications.

Mike, it also helps to keep a clean rag handy. After you glue the joint wipe off what squeezes out. this will make the plane easyer to sand and Monocoat dosent stick to glue very well. Also if you don't have any accelerator try some on the med. CA.
later Daveo

Accelerator is fine if the joint is put together properly... however, thick or medium CA filling a gap, the accelerator will cause to bubble and give a joint filled with voids. VERY BAD. The accelerator can also cause the CA to be more brittle. Its usually best to avoid the acclerator if possible.

As to how a good CA joint looks:

Minimal visible glue and essentially the only thing that shows is the change in wood gran direction indicates the best joint. The CA may change the color of the wood a bit where it wicks in... this is not always visible, and may show in one light and not in another on the same joint.

Joints that are double-glued, normally using medium CA, for a "fillet" will have a very small bead that follows a smooth curve from piece to piece. It shouldn't bulge up, which would indicate excess glue adding weight and no strength. (This appearance is the same for any type glue fillet)

Best thing to do is practice a bit with scraps, and then pull the joints apart. All joints should rip the wood before the glue lets go.

Note that if the CA soaks in and doesn't form the joint desired... set the pieces aside for 5 to 10 min before trying again. The CA which has wicked into the wood grain will seal the grain for the next attempt. If you try too soon, you can sometimes get the CA to migrate the full length of a main wing spar inside the wood grain, adding weight and making the wood stiffer and more brittle. (won't hurt strength except in a crash... where the wood will shatter rather than breaking cleanly. Makes repairs harder.) This can use up a LOT of CA and a lot of $$$$ quick.

Don't even bother trying thin CA for edge gluing Lite Ply. Thin CA will wick through the center layer like crazy.

NEVER use anything except thin CA for the fuzzy CA hinges. Medium or thick CA won't wick in properly and the solids will cause premature hinge failure.