Go Back  RCU Forums > RC Airplanes > Beginners
 Solder type question >

Solder type question

Community
Search
Notices
Beginners Beginners in RC start here for help.

Solder type question

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 11-21-2007 | 01:07 PM
  #1  
Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,993
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
From: Deland, FL
Default Solder type question



Search function did not help.

What type Solder for soldering threaded rod to brass
coupler ??

Thanks for your help.

Bob
Old 11-21-2007 | 01:15 PM
  #2  
MinnFlyer's Avatar
Senior Member
My Feedback: (4)
 
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 28,519
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes on 9 Posts
From: Willmar, MN
Default RE: Solder type question

Silver solder is best, but I have always used electrical solder and never had a failure in over 40 years
Old 11-21-2007 | 01:16 PM
  #3  
Senior Member
 
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 723
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
From: Charlottesville, VA
Default RE: Solder type question

Ideally, you would use silver solder, but many report no problems using standard electrical solder. Regardless which you use, I think the most important thing is clean parts and a good mechanical joint.
Old 11-21-2007 | 01:29 PM
  #4  
Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,993
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
From: Deland, FL
Default RE: Solder type question



Thanks guys for the info, I have Rosin Core
and Acid core and some Radio shack solder in
my shop. Thanks again!!!

Bob
Old 11-21-2007 | 02:55 PM
  #5  
CGRetired's Avatar
My Feedback: (1)
 
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 8,999
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
From: Galloway, NJ
Default RE: Solder type question

I use rosin core solder electrical (lead-tin alloy) solder which holds ok. The problem comes when both connections are not cleaned properly so the solder does not flow. If it beads up, it's not a good conection.. in fact, it's not a connection at all. It has to flow into the joint for the solder joint to be secure.

Silver solder requires more heat than lead-tin soldering does. The differences in strength are obvious, but it is not necessary in most applications to have a joint that is that secure that you need silver to make it so. Most lead-tin soldering will not get the parts heated up to glowing red where silver solder will.

CGr.
Old 11-21-2007 | 03:05 PM
  #6  
Missileman's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,204
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
From: Poland, OH
Default RE: Solder type question

I too have used both with good results either way. I kind of like the peace of mind of silver solder and since I have it I will use it.
After soldering wash off the parts real good, some fluxes will cause the metal to rust if not cleaned off.
Old 11-21-2007 | 03:34 PM
  #7  
Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,993
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
From: Deland, FL
Default RE: Solder type question



Thanks for the help.

Bob
Old 11-21-2007 | 04:06 PM
  #8  
Senior Member
 
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 7,769
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 5 Posts
From: FL
Default RE: Solder type question

I have a hunch that when the above says "silver solder" they really mean silver bearing solder such as StayBrite. True silver solder requires a great deal more heat and necessitates a torch, not iron. Silver bearing solder does require slightly more heat than regular solder but does use an acid flux so you need to clean the joint well after soldering as well as before else you will soon have a lot of corrosion. For most RC use, regular electical solder with rosin flux will do fine although it is sometimes easier to make good solder joint on music wire using an acid flux, again scrubbing well after as well as befor soldering.
Old 11-21-2007 | 04:10 PM
  #9  
calvino's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 8,958
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
From: Thousand Oaks, CA
Default RE: Solder type question

ok, I normaly use solder and flux, it definately helps to clean the joint, I use 60 grit sand paper, to scuff the surface, after that, I flux the wire to solder, tin it, and proced to solder the joint, with a fair amount of solder. In all the joints I have made, they have held up fine, if you don't flex it much, it should last a bit[8D]
Old 11-21-2007 | 06:10 PM
  #10  
CGRetired's Avatar
My Feedback: (1)
 
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 8,999
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
From: Galloway, NJ
Default RE: Solder type question

No, I meant silver solder... with a torch. That's why I mentioned heat requirements when I discussed it.

CGr.
Old 11-21-2007 | 06:51 PM
  #11  
w8ye's Avatar
My Feedback: (16)
 
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 37,576
Received 11 Likes on 10 Posts
From: Shelby, OH
Default RE: Solder type question

By "torch" these people are referring to an acetylene type torch.

The propane type torch doe s not get hot enough

A MAP Gas torch will sometimes work on something light

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are On



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.