Ok maybe I have some unrealistic expectations for my first covering project with Momokaot.

I have managed to burn a hole in my elevator with the heat gun, and now I cant get the patch to pull up tight[:@].

It also seams that every time I apply heat with the heat gun,I get more wrinkles that run the long way of the parts (like a washboard). Am I getting things pulled to tight lengthwise, or not tight enough the short direction when I am tacking down the film?

Is it possible I have gotten things two hot and they will not shrink up correctly?

Is it possible to over work the covering or can I keep going over it to work out the washboards?

Should I work the heat gun from small area’s to larger area’s, or from the center out?

I would like to get this figured out before I start on the fuselage and wing[sm=confused.gif].

I have one more question but I am reluctant to ask for fear of starting the old Ford, VS Chivy, VS Chrysler argument.

Are all plastic film covering created equally? Do some coverings have advantages or disadvantages over a competitor’s product? I am not asking what the best product is. I am just wondering if some products work better for some situations and not as good in others.

No, not all covering are created equally. I've used both Monokote and Ultracoat and I like the results I can get with either of them. My preference it Monokote though. But, with that being said... both types of covering requires practice. It's really like more anything else in the hobby, the more you practice the better you get at it. I had a lot of the same problems you described, but the more I did the better I got at covering.

Ken

Suppose you are putting a sheet on a bed and you have a wrinkle in the sheet.

You try to smooth the wrinkle by rubbing your hand over it, but that doesn't work, all it does is lay the wrinkle flat.

What you need to do is to pull the side of the sheet to get the wrinkle out.

It's similar with covering. If you have a wrinkle in the center, heat the area next to it to pull the wrinkle out.

And just for the record, I also use both, but I prefer Ultracote. I think it's more user-friendly, especially for beginners.

Ultracote is without a doubt more user friendly, shrinks a lot more and I think it sticks better, but I use monokote for almost all of my planes. The reason for that is because it is a couple bucks cheaper, and I can get it at Tower Hobbies. Monocote also has a lot more colors to choose from.

As for your covering, you will reach a point where the monocote stops shrinking, but it's unlikely that you have reached that point. Try not ot get the heat gun to close, or as you found out it will burn and melt the covering. Also try to move the gun around to shrink a big area, if your holding it still it will only shrink a small area and you probably did reach maximum shrinkage at that spot.

I have linked two very good articles on how to cover.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/a...?article_id=67

http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/a...article_id=726


Hope this helps,
Austin

i seen a video it's 5 there is 5 parts to it and it on this website. but dont know who made it if you serach for it you should find it.

If you are going to use an heat gun and this is you first project then aviod using a hair dryer (you have no real temperature control) use only a decdicated covering heat gun. Then learn to use the air bleed valve on the heat gun. Most folks get the heat gun entirely too hot and fail to open the bleed valve to establish an appropriate temperature.

If this is you first covering job I normally recommend using only an iron (a real sealing iron not a household iron) Initially using the iron only technique is far easier for most folks. And remember folks always want their first one to be perfect, well ain't gonna happen (there are new skills to be learned achevable only by doing) but be assured they will get better and easier each time!

For the Record I now only use Monocoat having used most everytype avaliable since the advent of film coverings.

Make sure that you get the covering as tight as you can while covering the item.. Don't expect to be able to shrink a very loose covering job. When you use the heat gun keep it moving. I like to tilt the gun so that it is at a angle and then move towards the tip of the gun. That way I can see the wrinkles being removed as I go along. I am no expert by far, but my covering jobs seem to turn out pretty good. Have patience---not like the prayer "God grant me patience---RIGHT NOW"

I agree with John Buckner, use an iron instead of a gun. But I'll take it another step and say always use an iron. You cannot regulate the amount of heat you are applying with a gun and there is always the potential to overheat, or even melt, the material. Once it has shrunk its design limit, no amount of extra heat will make it shrink more. The only recourse then is to remove the covering and start over. An iron can be set to deliver a specific temperature (get a small thermometer made for checking the iron, they're cheap and plentiful) and go by the covering mfg recommendations. Also, take care when putting the pieces of covering on, to apply with as few wrinkles as possible, less to have to remove with heat later. Just a slight tug on the material when you tack it down.

The other advantage to an iron is it allows shrinking close to seams without heating them enough to allow the edge to "creep" or come loose.

I don't think that a hair dyer would even do anything, let alone melt the covering. They don't get near as hot as a heat gun

Austin

Don't patch. Remove the covering, and start on a fresh, clean surface.

Another good reason to use an iron for shrinking, after getting the edges ironed down without wrinkles. Avoid the gun.

Yes Yes, it is possible, no, you probably need to do something else to get rid of the washboards. Get the edges down smooth, slowly, a bit at a time, then slowly go over all the wood, getting the covering stuck down everywhere with minimal wrinkles over the open bay areas. Then tighten the covering up gently with heat from your iron. Low temperature film (Ultracote, Oracover) uses an adhesive that doesn't gas. You can put covering over covering, iron it down and no bubbles appear sandwiched between the film. Monokote uses a high temperature adhesive that gasses when heated to the recommended temperature. I find that problematic when putting Monokote over film or sealed wood.

Good luck,
Dave Olson

Make sure you take the backing off the Monakote

Leave some path for the hot air to escape. This will avoid ballooning of the covering.

Thanks for the info guys. I have looked at the RCU magazine articles and videos many times that is part of what convened me to try a plastic film covering.

This thread convinced me to try Monokoat. [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_603331/mpage_1/key_covering%2Cflag/tm.htm] How to make a 3D American Flag[/link]

I though that ballooning may be causing the wash boarding so I drilled holes in the back of my vertical stab and horizontal stab. I don’t see a change.

As far as recovering the elevator or any of the other surfaces NOT GOING TO HAPPEN! I have used SIG Stix-it, this stuff dos not let go. If I strip it back I will go to dope & fabric, something I am familiar with.

One of the reasons that I decided to go with a film was so I could use a transparent covering to show off the structure underneath (first build and all). Also plastic film is a new experience.

When using a heat gun is a hot glove needed or can I use a cotton shop towel? The reason for the hot glove is to cool the covering right.

The heat gun I have is used and dos not have the deflector. Would this make a difference?


I have seen no mention of other covering film’s like Black Baron, 21st century, TowerKote and EconoKote

The glove is just to keep your hand from getting burn/hot, some gloves have grippy stuff on them that helps pull the monokote. The deflector on the heat gun is not needed, but it does come in handy sometimes.

Austin

The deflector is not a neccessity and the glove or a soft clean clothe is used to gently apply a slight pressure which will cause adhesion where before there was a bubble. Adhesion occurs with heat and a slight pressure not just heat.

Best for you to learn to use the iron first without the heat gun. Black Baron, Econocoat and Towercoat are all use a lower temperature adhesive than Monocoat and shrink at a lower temperature. Of those three Black Baron would be my preferred product.

John

http://www.wholesaletrains.com/Airpl...Item=ultracote

Anybody ever used this stuff, I came across it the other day and liked the prices. Although I can't seem to find any info on it, such as how much comes with that price and how strong it is.

Austin