wrinkles in my ARTF
#1
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From: Dyfed, UNITED KINGDOM
title says it all lol. my trainer has wrinkles in the covering. whats the best way to get rid of them. it doesnt affect its flying , it just looks crappy.
cheers all.
cheers all.
#2
Get one of [link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJD39&P=ML]THESE[/link] and a soft cloth. Carefully heat the monocoat starting far away (10 inches) and work in closer until you just see the wrinkles start to change (sometimes they get bigger before they get smaller as the air under them expands due to heat). Allow the bubble (wrinkle) to widen but become less high off the surface and use the cloth to wipe it smooth. The heat will activate the addhesive on the monocoat and by wiping the heated area to make it stick to the wood beneath it. Be careful not to over heat any one spot. It can and will burn (melt) a hole in the plastic covering. Also be carful at trim edges and corners as it will take less time to ruin those areas. It takes practice... but that is what our trainers are for. Take some time to go to the following links for tips and techniques for working with monocoat. Courtisy of Minnflyer.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/a...?article_id=67
http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/a...article_id=726
http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/a...?article_id=67
http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/a...article_id=726
#3
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From: el centro, CA
well ya see..an arf is not that cheap after all is it...
you need a heat gun and/or an iron
you can try your wife's blow drier or her iron if your brave..it's either going to be too hot or not hot enough.
Welcome to the world of RC you'll collect different tools too as the years gose by.
yeap keep it at least 10 to 12" or more if you use the blow dryer.
You can wrap a piece clothe around you're regular iron and turn up the heat a little bit at a time
or just run down to your LHS and pik up an Iron for $20. Because it'll wriggle again and again.
A quick pass with the heat gun usually dose the trick for me.
There's different types of film covering...I've had the heat gun pressing againts Supermonocoat.lol
This way i lcan eave my model sitting in the sun for a while if i use Monocoat..
who knows what's on your trainer. So start off with low heat.
you need a heat gun and/or an iron
you can try your wife's blow drier or her iron if your brave..it's either going to be too hot or not hot enough.
Welcome to the world of RC you'll collect different tools too as the years gose by.
yeap keep it at least 10 to 12" or more if you use the blow dryer.
You can wrap a piece clothe around you're regular iron and turn up the heat a little bit at a time
or just run down to your LHS and pik up an Iron for $20. Because it'll wriggle again and again.
A quick pass with the heat gun usually dose the trick for me.
There's different types of film covering...I've had the heat gun pressing againts Supermonocoat.lol
This way i lcan eave my model sitting in the sun for a while if i use Monocoat..
who knows what's on your trainer. So start off with low heat.
#5
Unless you plan to get both (iron and heat gun), I would go with a heat iron. Not only will it get rid of your wrinkles, but you can use it in the future when your monokote/ultrakote starts to peel off at the corners. If you want a cheap solution you can use a clothes iron, just be sure to get the temp right.
Austin
Austin
#6
Great planes put up this explanation on how to get rid of wrinkles.... [link=http://manuals.hobbico.com/top/tighten-covering.pdf]Click Me for PDF![/link]
However I do as acarter says, and use a heat gun.
It's MUCH faster.
Unlike the GP article I do let the covering bubble up and shrink, but you have to be VERY VERY careful of the heat... as when this happens you are right on the verge of overheating it...
After the covering has been pulled tight and all of the bubbles and wrinkles are gone I will then use an iron to make sure that the covering has properly adhered to the underlying balsa.
However I do as acarter says, and use a heat gun.
It's MUCH faster.
Unlike the GP article I do let the covering bubble up and shrink, but you have to be VERY VERY careful of the heat... as when this happens you are right on the verge of overheating it...
After the covering has been pulled tight and all of the bubbles and wrinkles are gone I will then use an iron to make sure that the covering has properly adhered to the underlying balsa.




