Or diesel car. Don't cut your tires.

No kidding about the 200 grain semi wad cutter. The hard cast is sort of an invention of mine. 9 pounds of wheel weights and one pound of 60/40 solder (plumbers solder without the flux). Melt them together, add a stick of bees wax to act as a flux to make the alloy mix properly, set the temp to 600 degrees F, then pour into the mold.

I use three molds. When the third is poured, open the first one and dump the cast bullets right into a bucket of cold water. The water anneals the alloy and "case hardens" it. Scratch it with a finger nail and it just makes a shiny line rather than a gouge as it would with lead or a soft alloy. Solder melts at about 400 degrees F. But the wheel weights are harder (more tin and antimony) so it takes a higher heat to completely melt that alloy and to 'fuse' or 'flux' it together. Scrape off the slag from the top of the melting pot and throw it away. Don't breathe in the fumes... somewhat toxic.. (to say the least). Maybe that's what got me into RC.. the fumes did something to my brain.. [sm=bananahead.gif]

Makes a very hard outer shell for the bullet and gives it penetration power. I used it in California for my back-up gun while bear and wild pig hunting. Does a great job.

CGr.


(man, talk about hijacking a thread!!! Sorry folks!!! )

Bruce...perhaps a disel powered asphalt roller... now that would be the trick!!!

I wish I were around when you guys couldn't get yours to run and wanted to sell them cheap. No problems here with any of them.

It's more fun to run over them. Revenge is always better.

As I said in another thread.. I can't give the things away except for some RC'ers that want them as parts. After 6 months of playing with them with all sorts of expert help, I just gave up and put them (all three) on consignment. Can't even sell them at half price. And one, the 61, is brand new!!! No one around here wants anything to do with them.
CGr



Bed time. Night night fellas. I need my beauty sleep.... boy do I ever!!!

CGr.

I've got 5 evo engines. Must have got the cream of the crop. They never deadstick on me. I did a little tweeking of the low needle and run 15% fuel. I've got 40's and a couple 61's. If you plan on being at SF-08, I'll take a look at them. Just an offer.

You didn't mention if you had a 100 NX. If you had one you would clearly change your mind about that particular engine.

Whats SF-08?

Maybe the reason these engines always deadstick is the fuel? Maybe they need a higher nitro percentage.

As I have stated in sevral posts in different forums, the 'club pro's' including one person that is NSRCA FAI level (that's the top rated pattern, and this particular person is something like third in the country in pattern) who knows engines (he has to at his level) and his dad who has been flying for almost 40 years, have looked at this engine. It isn't the fuel. It isn't the glow plug. It isn't tank pressure, it isn't any of that stuff. The engine just does not run right.

And, it's not just my 1.00 nx. Several people here have complained about it, as have several at our club. No one that I know of that has one has been able to get it to run right and with reliability.

CGr.

Just broke the 46 in on my Pulse XT over the weekend. Fueled, fired, and ran it in with two tanks rich just shy of lean. It blew a glow plug right after break in but I'v heard this sometimes occurs during initial run in. Replaced it and rolled it out for take off. Ran beautiful with very little adjustment to high and none to the low. We did put a short piece of fuel hose over the high needle to eliminate any needle walking that some people have experienced. So far so good ......

Nope, it's not a fuel problem, nor glow plug, nor anything external to the engine itself.

The 1.00NX are just problematic.

The others run fine... it's just the NX which is problem plagued.

Somehow, if the engine is based off of smaller onces, I come to believe it could be the carburator. Thats just my guess.

Ummm.... if the engine is based off of smaller onces...

Please explain.

And if it IS a carb problem, then what is the solution? An OS carb at about $80 a pop? Then it's time to get an OS and forget about it.

CGr.

I don't know, I just throwing an idea out.[:@]

Never mind.

has anyone found a way to seal the muffler mine tends to start leaking oil all over where the two halfs go to gather then loses backpressure leans out and die's

Everyone tells me to use JB Weld, but I have not had good luck with it... maybe I'm doing something wrong, but J.B. Weld always turns into a grayish mess over time for me, when used on parts that get very hot.


I've had great luck with some of the high temperature automotive gasket sealants and the "make a gasket" compounds.

These work great for things like the muffler.

Just get the area immaculately clean before you apply it.

thanks Opjose I'll give it a try

Yup, I use the copper colored high temperature RTV sealant, a silicone based gasket maker compound. Clean with rubbing alcohol first.

J

I bought a .52 NX last night.
I couldnt wait to try it out.
this morning, before school, it fired right up on the 3rd flip.
I'm running it on Cool Power Omega and it runs smooth.
Im gunna experiment and put it on a Fazer.
My dad has done it before.
But im only 14 and only have about 4 years under my belt.

Hello, I just got a Twist PNP 40 with the .46 Evolution. Idled and ran fine on the ground. Took it to the beach first flight, dead stick landing. Carb fell out.... Tightened it back up ran good then dead stick again. Can not seem to get the tunning right, but I see that i need to remove the pen... or any other suggestions? Im also running a 11x4 instead of the 11x6.

You might want to run the plane with the 11x6 prop as you are not loading it enough with the 11x4 one.

You should remove the limiter pins and loosen the blue limiter grub screws.

Pull the blue aluminum limiter collars up a bit, and re-tighten the grub screw.

It is NOT enough to merely remove the metal pin.

The blue collar prevents you from moving the needle inward ( or down ) because IT acts as a limiter itself.

Once done you'll find that typically you need to move the needle just slightly past where the limiter would have permitted it to travel.

Also the Evolutions initially are prone to create a grey "goo" that will clog up the muffler pressure fitting.

The grey goo is material from the rear casing being initially worn away. This will stop as the engine breaks in.

However check the nipple often and clear it of debris, especially over your first season.

Thanks, Heading to the beach. I will try that out, was thinking that the diffrent prop was the main problem.

I have about 15 runs on my Evolution .61 and it still has a tiny bit of gray in the exhaust residue, but not nearly what it was when new. Its also taken about that long to break in to the point where I have a consistent setting on the low-end mixture. The more I run this engine the better and stronger is seems to run. I'm quite happy with mine.

The pins on the needle valves can be removed with nose pliers by pulling them straight up. The blue ring on the low-end needle valve can be removed also. I haven't had any issues with the blue ring on the high-end needle valve since I haven't had to lean the engine to that point.

Hogflyer