Is this a good fuel for trainers? It is the cheapest I can find online:

15% Nitromethane
20% Lubricating Oils
(1/2 Castor, 1/2 Klotz)

For 2-stroke model engines. A more powerful fuel for those times when you need just a little extra performance. Same terrific idle and throttle response as CHAMPION "10". Smaller engines in the .049-.19 size range will generally start and run better on higher nitro fuels.

You don't need 15% nitro for a 2-stroke. 5% is good, 10% is plenty.

15% won't hurt anything, you just don't need it. If they have 10% for a lower price, go for it.

But to answer your question, yes, it will work fine.

The fact that this fuel is 1/2 castor lubrication makes it really great. I have Tower's fuel which has NO castor; castor is really great especially when breaking-in an engine.

If I could have any fuel, it would be 10% nitro, with a 50/50 castor/synthetic lubrication (which really meets or exceeds every manual I've read thus far).

OK, so which would be best out of the two? I will order whatever you recommend:

CHAMPION "5"
20% Lubricating Oils
(1/2 Castor, 1/2 Klotz)
For 2-stroke model engines. A good fuel for sport flyers who want economize slightly over the cost of the more commonly used 10% nitro fuel. Delivers longer engine runs, dependable low idle, and reasonable high speed. Typically only about 200-300 rpm less than 10% nitro fuel.

CHAMPION "10"
10% Nitromethane
20% Lubricating Oils
(1/2 Castor, 1/2 Klotz)
For 2-stroke model engines. This is the most popular fuel we have for sport, pattern, or scale flyers. A clean, cool burning blend that runs perfectly in any standard R/C or C/L engine from .19 to .90 cu. in. Smooth, dependable idle and excellent throttle response.

And does anyone know if SIG charges a hazard shipping charge?

I would say this one depends on what your manual says, i.e. what kind of engine you have. I have OS 46AX, and the 5% is within the recommended range. Super Tigre can run on NO nitromethane, and will probably perform the best with 5%, and I've heard it's the same with Super Tigre. With the OS I would go with the 10%.

It's not really the trainer which needs fuel - it's the engine in your trainer. Which engine do you have? If it's a new engine then it's likely built with ABC or ABN metallurgy. Those designations merely mean the piston cylinder is brass (the "B" part) which is either chrome (the "C" part) or nickle (the "N" part) plated and an all aluminum piston (the "A" part). The crankshaft is supported either by a bushed bronze bearing or by twin ball bearings. These engines normally don't need a full 20% oil but that quantity is ideal for breaking in an engine and it's early flights.

The nitromethane component adds a bit more power (and a lot more price) to a gallon of fuel. Most engines with higher compression run better on lower nitro content. Most overseas flyers use zero nitro. The 5% is a fine sport fuel while 10% will aid your idle and make the needle valve a little less critical to set. The vast majority of fuel sold however, is 15%. The 10% should be a good compromise.

Four stroke engines seem to need more nitro content.

NEVER use any fuel with less than 18% total oil content unless it's fully broken in and you understand how to set your needle valve properly. An engine should never be leaned out to a screaming 2 cycle setting on the ground.

I fly my trainer with a Thunder Tiger .46 Pro engine - an ABN ball bearing engine. I use a fuel with 18% total oil (including castor) and 10% or 15% nitro. The higher nitro did seem to help to reduce deadsticks.

Sig makes a very high quality fuel.

Kadet Mark II with a GMS2000 .32
Also will be used for multiple planes, all trainers with engines no bigger than .46

P.S: Other engines that will be used are an O.S .40 and SuperTigre .46

http://www.mecoa.com/gms/manual.htm -Here's the manual for your engine.

"FUEL TO USE

Model airplane fuels are a mixture of methanol, oil, and various additives to improve ignition, add power, and cut down carbon deposits. It is important to use fuel with a castor oil and/or synthetic lubricants, otherwise, your engine life will be drastically reduced. Nitro is another fuel ingredient that is often used. Its function is to "advance the spark". To determine if you need any, or more nitro, start your engine, open the throttle wide open and set your high speed needle for maximum power, then back it out slightly. Do all this with your booster battery connected. Now remove your booster leads - if your motor slows down, more nitro is indicated. Conversely, if your motor speeds up, there is probably too much nitro. We recommend high quality commercial fuel with 10~15% of nitro.

WARNING: Model airplane fuel is both flammable and extremely poisonous. Run your engine only in a well ventilated area. "

OK so purchase the 10%
Thank you

Once the GMS engines are broken in, they do just fine with 10% nitro.

You'll need to run about a gallon through them, before they are fully broken in.

Run them just a bit richer than you would say an O.S.... a click or two.

Try some Shell unleaded...it's only $3.29 a gallon.....

Then buy some chips and pop with the extra money and let us know how the maiden flight goes....

Not for long!!!!!!!!! [X(][:-][X(][&o]

At this rate I'll be trying to figure out how to put glow fuel into my car!

I heard Thunder Tiger's working on a car that runs on 0% nitro[:-]

SIG fuel is as good as any other brand. With shipping and hazardous materials fees, it is very expensive to buy fuel online.

There is an RC Club in Pittsfield.
http://www.modelaircraft.org/clubsearch.aspx put in a zip code and search.

If you're not already affiliated with them, you might consider calling the contact number and talking to a local modeler. There may be a local source for fuel that will save you some money.

There is a LHS in Adams and I will find a ride to get there, but he contradicts what others here say.
When I bought some fuel from him he told me that 15% fuel is best for all trainers, that is why I asked here what fuel was best.
And the answer here is no more than 10% nitro.

I have not seen an engine run on the fuel I bought from him last year as that fuel is now with someone else. But if I go to him to buy the fuel he will again tell me 15%. I want to take the advice given here so I see it as being easier buying it online.

You know, its exactly the same principle as octane; people think that using the highest octane in your car must mean it's the best fuel. However, most vehicles are designed to run on "regular", 87 octane. Increasing the octane increases the risk of pre-ignition, which comes from the compression of the fuel ignite itself before the spark plug even fires.

Using 15% nitromethane is the same principle. It will work in many engines, but it is right on the verge of being too high. Engines like Super Tigre would probably need an adjustment of the compression ratio for the 15% to be optimized. There are guys in my club that like high nitro%, but most of them are happy to use less expensive fuel if they can.

I think what was mentioned was to check with a club; there are several clubs around here, so we all chip in together and buy cases of fuel-the more you buy, the cheaper it gets, and we're down to $12/gallon.

You can ask this guy if he has 10%, maybe he just wants to sell the more expensive stuff, I dunno. You can tell him you have an engine that's meant to run on 0-15% nitro, like the Super Tigre, and are happy with a nitro % right in the middle.

The engines you have listed will all love 10% nitro.
I run 15% in mine only because my 4 stroke engines like 15% better and the 2 strokes don't really care. This way I only have to take one jug to the field.
But again 10% is fine for your engines.
SIG 10% nitro gallon = $15.49
Shipping= 8.99
Hazmat fee = $20
total= $44.48
Some pretty expensive fuel you have there.
A local hobby shop is always the best place to buy glow fuel even if you have to drive a ways to get it.

Yes I see your point Missileman, expensive indeed. I will wait til I can get a ride to the LHS, just hope he has 10% and not talk me into 15% again.

I run 10% on my four strokers w/o problems.

Some say that you have a slightly tighter tuning window with less nitro in the fuel, but I've not had problems once the engine is broken in.