I'm building custom dyhedral (1.5" per side) on a PT40. The kit provides joiners and guides with more dyhedral than I'd like. I'm wondering how to join the wing halves without proper joiners.

I've stacked books under the right wing to give it 3" of height and re-cut the dyhedral gauge. However, I've got to modify the joiners and washout jigs, don't I?

Is this the proper way to do it? (3" on one side)? Or do I have to stack books under each wing at 1.5". I'm not doing a good job of explaining this. I'm simply concerned about the meeting of the LE, TE, and spars. Do they have to have identical angles at the joining surface, or can one side have all the angle and the other side be 90 degrees?

Common sense has deserted me as I've looked at this way too long.

Thw washout jigs shouldn't need any modification, as the individual wing panels are built flat.

You Will have to make new joiners, and angle both root ribs.

If built by the instructions, the root ribs are added later. With less dihedral the wash out jigs will have to be shorter, One jig under each wing tip with the center flat while you sheet the wing. B4 you join your wings block your wings up where you want them and make a cardboard template for your wing joiner. It should be the same length as the original just with a different angle.

Thanks guys. That all makes sense. I'll create the cardboard template and recreate the joiners. Do you have to shave down the inside edge of each wing (LE,TE,spars) to 1.5" angle or can you simply leave one inside wing edge at 90 degrees and make the angle for the full 3" on the other wing? Am I making sense?

either way as long as you have a tight joint

BTW I hope I didn't step on your toes MinnFlyer

No Prob. I was thinking it was a different type of jig.

PT20 and PT40 build this way. I think there might be a better way, but I dont know what it would be. I've built two PT 40s this spring.