Throttle pushrods to flexable on my Kadet Sr.
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
My Feedback: (4)
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 198
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Beaumont,
TX
I just took my Kadet Sr's out of storage and I noticed a old problem was back. Throttle pushrods are way too flexable. Is there a good flexable push rod that I can istall that will not over flex.
#2
Sullivan Gold-N-Rod and Dubro Lazer Rod works well.
The cable style ones are ok but you need to tin the ends with solder to stiffen them up.
The important thing with any flexable rod is the outer casing tube has to be secured at both ends or it will be sloppy.
The cable style ones are ok but you need to tin the ends with solder to stiffen them up.
The important thing with any flexable rod is the outer casing tube has to be secured at both ends or it will be sloppy.
#3
Senior Member
I really like the cable pushrods. You can get quite a bit of flexability in routing. Just keep the outer sheith supported at the point the cable exits. I use them on my 90 four strokes and even with the one on my 4*60 that I left to much cable exposed, I get very precise throttle control. On engine kill, it flexes just a bit when hitting the throttle stop.
If you need some bends in the setup after exiting the fire wall, just flow a very small amount of solder in the cable and then bend it to shape. The solder flows to the heat, so start your solder flow just a bit closer to the end that where you want it to stop and work your way to the end. Use a rosin core electrical solder, as fine a wire as you have. You should not see any flow of the solder, pooling of it. Heat it again and wipe down with a cotton rag to smooth out any dripps of flux and any excess solder. The finished solder job should fit into the shieth without binding. Any really sharp bends may loosen the solder bond and a bit is heat with flux will fix them up.
Don
If you need some bends in the setup after exiting the fire wall, just flow a very small amount of solder in the cable and then bend it to shape. The solder flows to the heat, so start your solder flow just a bit closer to the end that where you want it to stop and work your way to the end. Use a rosin core electrical solder, as fine a wire as you have. You should not see any flow of the solder, pooling of it. Heat it again and wipe down with a cotton rag to smooth out any dripps of flux and any excess solder. The finished solder job should fit into the shieth without binding. Any really sharp bends may loosen the solder bond and a bit is heat with flux will fix them up.
Don
#5
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,424
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Springtown,
TX
Flexible is what you want, you just have to support the outter sheathing along the wayclose to the servo (no more than 1 or 1.5 inches away from the servo), at the firewall, and at least one or two places in between. I like flexible on throttles since you usually have to go up, down, left, right, whatever to get around the fuel tank, battery, and whatever else you have in the front and then out to the carb that is located God only knows where.....



