I know there have been posts regarding this, but I`m a bit unclear. With the LOW END NEEDLE, there is the BLUE collar that has the post sticking out of it. That collar appears to be held in place with a grub screw. To remove the BLUE collar, does one simply remove the grub screw and slide the collar off? Do you have to pull the little limiter post out first, or does it just slide off with the BLUE collar? Also, immediately inboard of the BLUE collar there is a METAL collar, also apparently held in place by a grub screw. Should the METAL collar also be removed? Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

Just pull the limiter post out and your good to go.

geoff

Unfortunately that is not quite so.

The blue collar holds the needle firmly and it prevents it from screwing "IN".

The grub screw on it must be loosened and the collar must be pulled ( or removed ) up a bit and retightened too.



Tideflyer

I'd recommend that you DO NOT pull off the pin.

Instead loosen the grub screw and temporarily remove the collar altogether.

Now get the engine tuned up and running well.

Go through the standard tuning, pinch tests, nose-up, nose down, transitions, etc.

Once done put the collar back on, and being careful NOT to move the needle itself, set the pin about half way between the stops, then tighten it down. Just be sure that the collar does not fully "seat" against the black metal retrainer/restrictor..

Now the limiter will properly do it's job. You can move the needle in either direction about 1/4 turn for fine tuning , w/o running the risk of going too far.

As the weather changes you'll be glad you did this.

I wouldn't remove the limiter off of the low end. Just take it off, get the low end tuned up, then put it back on.
The high end, on the other hand, you could safely remove if you wanted.

Thanks guys. I`ve decided to just loosen the collar which will allow me to adjust the low end needle, then retighten the collar. That creates a new adjustment range. Engine idles VERY well now, so I`m going to leave well enough alone!