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Which are better? I've had to replace several hex screws due to faulty wrenches so I want to get a really good set. Any recommendations?

ChuckW

Both are good. The ball ends work really well when you have to access a screw at an angle but can be more prone to rounding off if you need a lot of torque. So they both have their place.

*JCB*

My Feedback: (9)

I'd say get some of BOTH!! Ball end for quick removal and insertion of screws in precarious places and "regular" ends for higher-torque situations...

Or you could just do something like this [link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXL461&P=ML]wrenches[/link] , but you will wish you had some nice ball drivers as well...

Deathbunny_SG

My Feedback: (6)

Edit posted at same time, what they said

JollyPopper

My Feedback: (6)

It's not even close. A good set of ball end hex wrenches will be one of the best and most used set of tools you will ever buy. Many places sell them, both fractional and metric, usually for around $15.00 for the sizes used in our hobby. This is $15.00 for a set of fractional and another $15.00 for a set of metrics. The are worth it.

HighPlains

My Feedback: (1)

You can't go wrong with two sets of Bondhus ball-end hex keys. Get one in Metric and the other in inch to cover every need. They are extremely tough wrenches and last for years.

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

If you have to choose only one type then go with the ball end wrenches. But if you can swing it get both types. For most of your duties you will use the ball-end wrenchs, but if you have really tighten something down you'll want a normal end wrench for that.

Ken

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What type should I be using to service an engine? Removing the cylinder head screws on a 46AX was a pain with L-Shape standard wrenches.

Campgems

Both. Just remember that some of the time, you are going to be loosening a bolt that has really been tightened. A ball end just won't do it. The bigger the size, the less this problem becomes.

In addition, some long arms are also necessary. "T" handles are also nice. I've got a set of long reach metric and imperal. T handle Metric and Imperial. A huge selection of regular size imperials. Quite a few 1/4" socket drive ones. Not a single ball in the bunch, I need to go over to Enco and pick up some. I still never have the right one.

Don

Campgems

I need to add this. I you can feel any movement between the wrench and the screw, you either have a worn out wrench or the wrong size. On the smaller sizes, I frequently "sharpen' them by grinding off the shiny end. Keeping a sharp tip and flutes that are not shinny from wear will go a long way to being servicable. The smaller the wrench the bigger this problem becomes.

I like to use the Dubro #2 socket head button head screws for cowls and such. They have a very small, 1/16' or so wrench size. I have to grind the end off my wrenches after just a few uses with these screws. The socket head is shallow and with the small size, the wear is extreme. 10 or 12 screws tightened is about time for the wrench to be ground down again.

One more point, on the small size socket head set screws. They are very prone to breaking with a worn wrench. The small ones used in wheel collars and that the socket portion fully or partialy extends above the collar are very prone to cracking due to the lack of body strength supporting the threads while the wrench is trying to wedge them out. When tightening one of these small screws and the wrence "slips" a step, pull the set screw out and throw it away and replace it with a new one. The screw cracked along the socket faces and is not tightend well and may be impossible to remove later. I've see this in socket head screws up to 3/8" in size. If the set screw socket end is fully into the threads of the collar, the problem is recuced as the internal threads support the screw some what. There is still enough clearance in the thread though that you can pop the head if enough torque is applied.

Don

JohnBuckner

My Feedback: (1)

As said ball drivers are wonderful for most stuff on the airframe however you really need straight hex keys for engine work.

As a minimum I suggest the small L type ball drivers in both metric and fractional. These have the ball on the long leg and straight hex on the short leg.

A longer set with driver or T handles are great to add later, I prefer long ball drivers with driver handles ove the T type.

John

Jim Thomerson

Realize that the bolts on most engines these days are metric.

-pkh-

My Feedback: (2)

I have a large set of Craftsman hex wrenches in both standard and metric, and they have served me well. They are L-shaped with ball ends on the long side for long reach and quick, low torque turning, and they have a regular ends on the short side of the L, for high-torque turning. I also have a couple sets of metric hex drivers (screw-driver type handles) mainly for working on helis, and they have standard ends on them.

spiral_72

I'd get a set of metric and a set of standard, ball nose Bondhus wrenches. They are an excellent quality tool, and with the minimal amount of torque you'll be putting on them in the RC hobby, it's likely you'll never have a broken one.

I use them (nearly) everyday when building machine frames and assorted things. They last a long time under abuse/overtightening fasteners.