Fisrt rc plane
#1
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From: gravenhurst ,
ON, CANADA
I am currently building a Great planes clipped wing T-craft for my first powered rc plane.
Just wondering if you guys think this was a good choice or not??.
I have flown an rc glider a couple of times and did ok.
Also I will be learning to fly this on my own.
I bought a .25 OS motor and a futaba skysport 6 channel radio to go with it.
Just wondering if you guys think this was a good choice or not??.
I have flown an rc glider a couple of times and did ok.
Also I will be learning to fly this on my own.
I bought a .25 OS motor and a futaba skysport 6 channel radio to go with it.
#2

You may be in for more challenge than you expect with the progression you describe.
Personally, I was making what I considered useable takeoffs and landings when I left engines behind and took up gravity power. When I returned to conventional power a couple years later, I'd thouroughly adjusted to greasing a glider in on its belly... and all that stuff hanging under the regular airplane really got in the way. I nearly ripped the undercarriage off of a couple of other people's planes and a power plane approach still doesn't look quite right to me.
For a scale plane, the T-Craft should be very docile, but I'd still consider some time on a trainer type trainer first if it was me. (I assume you have no access to instrucion? You don't mention what kind of gliders you've flown, but the powered plane will be a handful compared to, say, an RES ship.)
Personally, I was making what I considered useable takeoffs and landings when I left engines behind and took up gravity power. When I returned to conventional power a couple years later, I'd thouroughly adjusted to greasing a glider in on its belly... and all that stuff hanging under the regular airplane really got in the way. I nearly ripped the undercarriage off of a couple of other people's planes and a power plane approach still doesn't look quite right to me.
For a scale plane, the T-Craft should be very docile, but I'd still consider some time on a trainer type trainer first if it was me. (I assume you have no access to instrucion? You don't mention what kind of gliders you've flown, but the powered plane will be a handful compared to, say, an RES ship.)
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From: gravenhurst ,
ON, CANADA
I have flown a gentle lady and a Unic modified for rc.
Thanks for the insight, I think I might just finish the t-craft and look into a trainer of some sort.
Any suggestions for a person on a budget??
Also I would like to use my radio and engine for the trainer.
What would be the benifits to using a trainer vs the t-craft??
Thanks for the insight, I think I might just finish the t-craft and look into a trainer of some sort.
Any suggestions for a person on a budget??
Also I would like to use my radio and engine for the trainer.
What would be the benifits to using a trainer vs the t-craft??
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From: gravenhurst ,
ON, CANADA
I also have a Electric fairchild ranger to finish building, maybe this would make a good trainer?? Possibly convert it to gas??
Has a 56" wingspan and three channels, could again modify it for ailerons??
not sure though
Has a 56" wingspan and three channels, could again modify it for ailerons??
not sure though
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From: MS
If you want to get a trainer in the air quickly and easily, try the Balsa USA Stick 40+. It is inexpensive, easy to build, easy to fly, and tough as nails. I think it would be perfect for someone with your experience and anyone on a budget. There is a review of the kit on my web page.
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From: gone,
The Taylorcraft, as a Cub, makes an OK (as in acceptable, but not highly recommended) powered R/C trainer. The Taylorcraft usually has a bit better ground handling (not much...) than a Cub, but otherwise is pretty much the same. It is very possible to succeed with these tpes as first power planes.
Having flown the gliders succesfully will be a big advantage once the plane is in the air. You will only have to get used to the higher speed and more sensitive controls of the powered plane. (be gentle with the sticks, the plane will react MUCh faster then the Gentle Lady.)
Taildragger take-off can be a problem when you haven't flown powered planes before. The key to success is to slowly advance the throttle, don't slap the stick to full or you will torque-turn (possible spin the plane around one main wheel... or flip it.) A little up elevator to keep the tailwheel effective until you've built up a little speed, then let the tail rise on its own, and the plane will lift off itself when its ready. If the wheels leave the ground and you are still holding up... get the elevator neutral QUICK or you'll stall. More than about 15 deg climb angle should be avoided until the plane is about 75 ft up. (especially while you are getting used to power flight, and a new plane...)
Practice a few stalls at altitude with the engine at idle. It'll give you a good idea of how the plane reacts to a stall, and what speed you need for final approaches.
Landing will be a bit higher speed than you are used to with the gliders. Don't try to land at your feet... it'll run right through your legs. Try to pass about 25 to 50 ft away at the closest as it meets the runway in front of you. If you'v got the rght engine/prop combo n the plane, the engine can run at idle and the plane will land. Having flown gliders... you shouldn't have problems with dead-stick (engine dead) landings.
The transition is possible to do with no assistance... but not easy. It would be uch better to get someone who's had experience with powered planes to take the first flight to trim the plane. (even if you get a conventional R/C trainer.) A couple of Buddy box flights and you'll probably be ready for flying powered planes solo.
Having flown the gliders succesfully will be a big advantage once the plane is in the air. You will only have to get used to the higher speed and more sensitive controls of the powered plane. (be gentle with the sticks, the plane will react MUCh faster then the Gentle Lady.)
Taildragger take-off can be a problem when you haven't flown powered planes before. The key to success is to slowly advance the throttle, don't slap the stick to full or you will torque-turn (possible spin the plane around one main wheel... or flip it.) A little up elevator to keep the tailwheel effective until you've built up a little speed, then let the tail rise on its own, and the plane will lift off itself when its ready. If the wheels leave the ground and you are still holding up... get the elevator neutral QUICK or you'll stall. More than about 15 deg climb angle should be avoided until the plane is about 75 ft up. (especially while you are getting used to power flight, and a new plane...)
Practice a few stalls at altitude with the engine at idle. It'll give you a good idea of how the plane reacts to a stall, and what speed you need for final approaches.
Landing will be a bit higher speed than you are used to with the gliders. Don't try to land at your feet... it'll run right through your legs. Try to pass about 25 to 50 ft away at the closest as it meets the runway in front of you. If you'v got the rght engine/prop combo n the plane, the engine can run at idle and the plane will land. Having flown gliders... you shouldn't have problems with dead-stick (engine dead) landings.
The transition is possible to do with no assistance... but not easy. It would be uch better to get someone who's had experience with powered planes to take the first flight to trim the plane. (even if you get a conventional R/C trainer.) A couple of Buddy box flights and you'll probably be ready for flying powered planes solo.
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From: TX
I DO NOT RECOMMEND THE T-CRAFT FOR FIRST PLANE NOT STABLE ENOUGH TRY A TRAINER SUCH AS AREO STAR
40 OR 60 TH E60 WOULD BE THE BEST CHOICE IF YOU ARE GOING TO FLY IT ALONE
40 OR 60 TH E60 WOULD BE THE BEST CHOICE IF YOU ARE GOING TO FLY IT ALONE
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If your looking for a trainer that you can put your OS .25 in, you should take a look at the Sig Kadet LT25. It has a 63 inch wing and sells for $69 from Tower. I've never flown the LT25, but if it flys anything like the Kadet LT40 or the Kadet Senior, you can't go wrong.
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From: Spearfish SD
I made my transition from gliders to powered flight with a Goldberg Cub about 10 years ago. Being a full scale pilot and having some RC sailplane experience, the transition was do-able, but the inevitable crash came after about 10 flights. Even with glider experience I think the question is not if you will crash but when. Personally after driving an expensive four stroke into the back seat of a formerly very nice looking but now re-kitted J-3, I decided a dedicated trainer was a good idea.
The scale/semiscale Cub/Taylorcraft as an initial aircraft has some merit as cub models have low wing loading and do in fact fly on the wing a bit more than most powered R/C models. However, the step up in speed and control response is a little large and unless you have an instructor and buddy box, I hear crunchy noises in your future. A clipped wing may also add to your woes as it won't be the same "floater" that the full span aircraft would be.
My second powered aircraft was a Great Planes Trainer 40. (not a PT-40) Nice plane, flew very nice and tracked very well but for an initial powered aircraft (and no instructor) it was a bit fast with it's semetrical wing and I was not real comfortable with it. It was hung from the ceiling in tempory storage after one successful but rather tense and un-fun flight.
The next "basic trainer" was a Duraplane Trainer 40. It would in my opinion be the best choice for a first powered plane if no instructor is available as it allows you to adjust to flying a faster aircraft with higher wing loading, inverted flight etc, without worrying about the inevitable hard landing or out and out crash. They are also cheap (about $60) to buy and will build in a very short time. My Duraplane flew very well and is currently getting a rebuild of sorts prior to assisting me in getting back into powered R/C flight and in assiting my son in learning R/C flight.
Hobbico makes a simliar plane (Sturdy Birdy) in a .25 size that should fly nearly as well as the Duraplane and also comes with conventional gear, so it would aide your eventual transition to your Taylorcraft. Personally though I have not found taildraggers to be that hard to fly if the fuselage is relatively long and the main gear are properly aligned to help them self correct and track straight.
Roll response/aileron control will also be an issue. If you used a single stick 2-3 channel transmitter with your glider, or flew in mode 2 with a four plus channel transmitter, your thumb will have the general idea about roll=turn. But if you flew with the rudder on the other stick you will have a whole lot more to learn about aileron flight on top of the faster roll rates and an aileron trainer would be a very good idea.
A simulator like Great Planes RealFlight G2 is also a great idea. The lite version can be bought for around $130 and will help establish the eye-motor loop, control inputs and responses required for a successful solo without risking a real plane. It seems a little spendy on the surface, but is cheaper in the long run than trashing an aircraft and possibly a radio and engine. It will also give you a little more confidence when it comes to the flying the real thing.
The scale/semiscale Cub/Taylorcraft as an initial aircraft has some merit as cub models have low wing loading and do in fact fly on the wing a bit more than most powered R/C models. However, the step up in speed and control response is a little large and unless you have an instructor and buddy box, I hear crunchy noises in your future. A clipped wing may also add to your woes as it won't be the same "floater" that the full span aircraft would be.
My second powered aircraft was a Great Planes Trainer 40. (not a PT-40) Nice plane, flew very nice and tracked very well but for an initial powered aircraft (and no instructor) it was a bit fast with it's semetrical wing and I was not real comfortable with it. It was hung from the ceiling in tempory storage after one successful but rather tense and un-fun flight.
The next "basic trainer" was a Duraplane Trainer 40. It would in my opinion be the best choice for a first powered plane if no instructor is available as it allows you to adjust to flying a faster aircraft with higher wing loading, inverted flight etc, without worrying about the inevitable hard landing or out and out crash. They are also cheap (about $60) to buy and will build in a very short time. My Duraplane flew very well and is currently getting a rebuild of sorts prior to assisting me in getting back into powered R/C flight and in assiting my son in learning R/C flight.
Hobbico makes a simliar plane (Sturdy Birdy) in a .25 size that should fly nearly as well as the Duraplane and also comes with conventional gear, so it would aide your eventual transition to your Taylorcraft. Personally though I have not found taildraggers to be that hard to fly if the fuselage is relatively long and the main gear are properly aligned to help them self correct and track straight.
Roll response/aileron control will also be an issue. If you used a single stick 2-3 channel transmitter with your glider, or flew in mode 2 with a four plus channel transmitter, your thumb will have the general idea about roll=turn. But if you flew with the rudder on the other stick you will have a whole lot more to learn about aileron flight on top of the faster roll rates and an aileron trainer would be a very good idea.
A simulator like Great Planes RealFlight G2 is also a great idea. The lite version can be bought for around $130 and will help establish the eye-motor loop, control inputs and responses required for a successful solo without risking a real plane. It seems a little spendy on the surface, but is cheaper in the long run than trashing an aircraft and possibly a radio and engine. It will also give you a little more confidence when it comes to the flying the real thing.



