Ok, i selected the hobbico avistar select RTF kit.... now i am wondering what is the defult prop size? i kinda want to stick with the same prop for a little while..... here is a list of the things i got

1. Hobbico Avistar Select Channel 50 RTF
2. Great planes Ultra precision fuel filter
3. Great planes C.G. Machine
4. Great Planes Accuthrower Deflection meter
5. Tower Power 10% Fuel 1 Quart

what else should i buy? and again let me know on the prop

You left out the one determining factor. What engine is on the plane? If it came with one, the size should be on the blade or around the hub.

If it's a .40 size engine you couldn't go much wrong with a 10 x 6, an 11 x 5 if a .46 size. I find APC's a bit quieter and well designed.

The Select comes with an OS 40 installed. Use a 10x6.

On what else to buy:

AMA Membership
Local club membership
Futaba Buddy cord (goes with the radio that came with your airplane)

Later you can get:

Field box
Electric starter
Electric starter battery
Glow Driver
Hobby wrench which has sizes for prop nut and glow plug
Extra Glow plugs (OS A3 or #8's work well)
Fuel pump
Peak charger for RX, TX batteries.


...I could create a very long list -- but these are the essentials. In the meantime, you could borrow your instructors starter gear.

Your going to need a lot more fuel than a quart!!!

Hopefully!

you need a glow plug driver, extra plugs and a fuel pump now.

I used a 11x5 prop with my OS .40 La. I did not like the 10x6.

Hobbico has a Flight box kit with most things you will need in the future - electric starter, glow driver, electric fuel pump etc. I think it costs around $110.00

I would not use the fuel filter on the plane. Use a filter on the fuel pump.

Have fun! It is the greatest hobby!

Welcome to RC flight!

Absolutely MORE fuel! A gallon will get you through about 1/2 your training cycle if your normal. (I can burn a gallon on a good weekend. )

I'd also recommend at least 2 or 3 props. It's pretty easy to break one when you're learning. So get at least a 10X6 and an 11X5. Then you can choose which gives your plane better performance. Besides, they're the cheapest thing on the plane. No sense being grounded because you broke a prop!
Dennis-

thank all you guys for your insights..... now i need to know 10x6 11x5 what the hell does that mean? lol is the 10x6 more power ful that and the 11x5? enlighten me

I can do that one. I just learned it myself. 10x6= 10 inch long prop and for every rotation it will pull 6 inches of air, hopefully. So 1 spin = 6 inches forward with a 10 inch blade.

To elborate a little further, they both should spin up close to the same RPM, but think of longer lower pitch props as a low gear. Lower top speed, but more pulling power. hink of a higher pitched prop as a higher gear, more top speed, not quite as much straight up pulling power. You might get a little more spool up time, or lag on the longer prop. You jam it to full throttle and it might take a little longer to reach full speed.

Hope this info helps.

Thank you, I did say I was new to this too. That info will be helpful.

If you haven't already bought your new props, get the Master Airscrew black nylon props while you are learning. They seem to take runway abuse much better than any other. If you do happen to touch the prop to the runway while you are learning to taxi, take-off, or land (what are the odds of that?) they are much more likely to survive with just scratched tips. Take it off, balance it again, and you are off.

how do i balance a prop? i read at towerhobby that the props need to be balanced? explain how to do this.... isnt balancing are of the manufactures responsibility?

hey i looked at the master airscrew and i was intrigued .... i seen 3 bladed props there..... could i use one of those with my avistar select? hmmmm maybe one of the scimitar props? hmmm

Midnight,
Prop balancing is importaqnt, especially at high RPMs. If you have an improperly balanced prop it can cause vibration that is very bad for engine and airframe. You can get several prop balancers, check at your LHS or at www.towerhobbies.com.

3 bladed props are less efficient than a 2 bladed prop. Keep that in mind if you decide to go with one.

just use a master airscrew 2 blade black nylon prop - size 11x5 or 10x6....i liked the 11x5 better

You will strike the prop on the ground while learning to taxi, take off and land. You can balance the prop if you want to but I have never seen anyone balance the prop after a ground strike with a trainer. Most, just attach the glow driver and give the engine a flip, then back into the air.... You are going to want to get as much airtime as possible with your instructor and they are not going to wait around for you to balance your prop every time it strikes the ground.

Just my opinions....

On bigger engines - It is necessary to balance the props.

The 3 blade props are expensive, might break and will require balancing after a ground strike.

The three blade props are usually for that nice, scale warbird that you want to look cool sitting in the pits.

As far as not re-balancing after a prop strike, the answer we are supposed to give is that a prop should be balanced whenever it comes in contact with the ground. The reason I suggest MA nylon props for learning is that they are much more forgiving of these frequent little mishaps, and you can usually get away with firing the engine back up and going again, but you are never supposed to admit that you do it. Oh yeah, and I use after run oil after EVERY day at the field... I promise

You can also make a prop balancer to use until you buy one. All you need is a thin, stiff piece of wire. (One that will fit through the hole in the prop hub.)

Hold one end, with the prop on it, and give the prop a slow spin. Note which blade stops in the down position. Do this three or four times. If the same blade stops in the down position, that is the heavy blade. Sand the back of the blade and try it again.

A properly balanced prop will have the blades stopping in about any position, but never repeatedly with the same blade down.

By the way. Diameter = torque, grunt, pulling power. Pitch = speed. (As has been said.) A general rule of thumb; for every inch you increase either diameter or pitch, you should reduce the other by an inch. That's why we said 10 X 6, or 11 x 5. Theoretically, a 9 X 7, or a 12 X 4 will also work. (9 X 7 = greatest speed, 12 X 4 = greatest vertical pull.) But there are limits where engine efficiency prevents theory from working.

A lot to absorb, but you'll get there.
Dennis-

cool thank you