1st time starting any glow engine. a thunder tiger pro .36
I got the fuel in. I had to take the hand crank apart to unjam it. I thought this would be reliable? jamed the 1st time.
Adjust the needle valve out 2.5 turns.
choked the engine.
Connected the glow starter, indicator on the top of it is almost in the red so it needs to be charged...
set throttle to 1/4 and after a couple of flips it started right up.
removed glo starter.
I opened the throttle all the way.
started leaning the needle valve a little. The engine ran for about 2 minutes and I was interupted and had to leave the plane so I pinced the fuel line untill it died.
was that bad? When I got back to try again I could not get it to start.
I let it sit for 15 minutes and redid the whole procedure but it didnt fire at all.

is this where an electric starter would be helpful?

Can the engine get " flooded "

Would I still prime if it had been running?

Its getting to late to run this now (the neighbors!). I pumped the fuel out. (I assume you shouldnt leave fuel in the tank?)
and I'll try tommorow.

As far as the "break in" from what I've read it sounds like all I've got to do is run at WOT a little on the rich side.
Would the 2.5 turnes out that I start at be considered a little rich or will I want to lean it out a little from the 2.5 out?
for the short time it was runing it didnt seem to change as I started turning the needle in. I'm going to need a tach as my hearing isnt the greatest to pick up on the change in pitch????

Even that was exciting!! I know this is a small engine but MAN! was it pulling at the plane which was tied down. I cant wait for my 1st flight.

Pops

Pinching the fuel line to shut off the engine will not hurt anything. A starter is a handy tool to have for situations like that. 2 1/2 turns out is a good starting point. For break in, richen it from there until it starts to really slow down and sounds like its 'missing.' Then lean it back up until it stops making that four stroking sound. This is a good initial position for break in. After initially setting the mixture nice and rich follow the instructions in the manual. You typically don't want to break in an engine by leaning it out going constantly at full throttle. I always get my engines to the point where they are reliable (a tank or two) and then fly them. Continuing the break in procedure in the air will aid in cooling the engine.

ABN engines should not be broken in extremely (four stroking) rich as this will wear parts excessively since the engine is not getting up to operating temperatures.

2 1/2 turns out is a good starting point. For break in, richen it from there until it starts to really slow down and sounds like its 'missing.' Then lean it back up until it stops making that four stroking sound. This is a good initial position for break in. After initially setting the mixture nice and rich follow the instructions in the manual.


Sounds like that position for break in will be open more than the 2.5 turns I'm at for starting.
run WOT for the whole tank? in this " slightly rich " position?


TIA
Pops

This might sound obvious,but were you flipping the prop the right way? I know a guy who was trying to start my....I mean HIS first engine,he spent 2 hours until he couldnt feel his arm anymore after draining his glow starter numerous times before he relized he was flipping it the wrong way the whole time and couldnt get more then a pop out of it.....idiot,lol.

And make sure your glow starter is charged by simply taking a glow plug and sticking it in the starter by hand and seeing if it glows good. And I'd try starting it with a tad less throttle than 1/4. Also,if its flooded you will usually know because the motor wont want to turn over because it'll be trying to compress all the fuel(and liquid dont compress). To de-flood your engine,just take out the glow plug and dump out the fuel and flip it a bunch of times to pump out the excess fuel,then start your starting process over. And yes....you'll want an electric starter as soon as your can afford it.

And many,if not most engines run normally at 2.5 turns out. The last engine I broke it at WOT was 5 turns out. So,I doubt you'll want to run it WO there.....make sure your richen it up alot so that it is barely running at WOT. It might start there,but richen the crap out of it before you hit WOT. I just broke in a 4 stroke at WOT and I simply opened the needle valve 5 turns,left the throttle wide open and then started the engine an left if run just like that. I was surprised it started like that.




You'll get it!

2.5 turns may be about right, but richening more until it slows and then leaning back out some will ensure you are starting rich and not lean. After all, I can't be there, so I wanted to make sure I gave you advice that would virtually eliminate the chances of a lean run. I usually run the engines for around three minutes at a time ranging from a low rpm position to a 3/4 position. Make sure the engine cools completely between runs. After a tank or two of that I can usually get it dialed in enough (still rich) to fly it.

Sounds like you may have burned out a glow plug.

OK, I think I get the idea.

I'll give it another shot after work.


pop

Jester241, Your the winner!
I was, I mean, my friend was flipping it the wrong way...
I looked at the prop and said to myself, YOUR AN IDIOT!

Thanks for pointing out the obvious...


Once I got it primed it started right up.
I backed it out from 2.5 to 5 turns then it sounded like it was starting what they are refering to as 4 cycling? a rough sound so I turned it in 1 turn. it sped up and smoothed out a bit but was still very rich? I left it at 4 turns.
I varied from 3/4 to WOT for the whole tank. It was rich, a ton of fuel was coming out the exhast. It definatly wasnt running at peak rpm...

I let it sit 10 min before the 2nd tank. near the end of the 2nd tank I turned in the needle till it was screaming and pointed the plane straight up. the rpm stayed right there... Dont know what that means yet but I read they do that...
I was concentrating on getting it started first, now what will tell me that I'm ready for flight? as far as the engine goes that is.

I still have to install the ailerons and a few more control surface adjustments...




Thanks to all

Pop

Great job. People tilt the model vertically to check for a sagging engine. Any engine sag lets you know there's an over lean condition. Slowly lean the engine until the RPMs pick up a bit more. Make sure the engine transitions from idle to full well. Run the engine at idle for 20 seconds and then briskly move the throttle to full (don't snap it). Chances are the engine will either sputter and die or sputter and pick up eventually. This would mean that you need to lean the low end a little and try again. Do this until your transition is good.

In short, the engine will be rich, but reliable when ready to fly.

....lol

By the way, yes, a glow engine can get flooded and it's a bad thing. Fuel does not compress and in the small spaces of an engine something will give - cylinder bolt (s), gasket, connecting rod, etc. If you suspect a flooded engine pull the glow plug, disconnect the fuel intake and spin the prop a few times to clear it (watch your eyes if using an electric starter - glow fuel in the eyes stings).

Well, I wouldn't feel bad. Now you know absolutely positively that you'll never do that again. Besdes, that's not the first time that's happened.

[quote]ORIGINAL: Nathan King

Great job. People tilt the model vertically to check for a sagging engine. Any engine sag lets you know there's an over lean condition.

Ahhh, so in my case I was running rich so holding it vertical didnt really prove anything. I want to try that when I have the engine running lean and see if it will stay strong when held vertical. I'll also try the throttle test.
I also see that if you pinch the fuel line " it should NOT speed up" before it dies?




Thanks



Pop

The engine SHOULD SPEED UP SLIGHTLY when the line is pinched. A drastic increase in RPM means you're still very rich, no increase and then quit, or immediate quit means it's too lean. If tuning with a tach, lean till it stops increasing in RPM's, then rich for a 3-400 rpm decrease. That's what slight means, 300-400rpm.

J