I have the CG and all electronics set right where I need than on my Slow Stick. All I have left is the two linkage rods from servos to tail which I have put off for a few days. HOW do I go about doing this so I have the right movement angles. I do not want to cut/bend and have to get extras. I want it set up w/o spending any more money atm. It would be nice if someone could thoroughly explain, pictures are nice..in great detail for me. I have seen several sites which I have followed for the entire build as the manual is written for people in China and poorly translated. THANKS!

In a bit,
Ray

can someone give me guidance how to do this? I don't want to get it how i 'think it is' and get it out and find out otherwise..

First off. If all the connecting rods are not in the model you have not established the proper C.G. yet. That's done with everything but the fuel in "ready-to-fly" condition.

One end of the connector should be adjustable (threaded rod & clevis or other means of fine tuning the length) and the other end should be a fixed attachment point). I like the EZ-Links with an "L" bend for the fixed end.

Set the servo & control surface to mid-point/neutral. Adjust the clevis halfway into the threaded section. Mark the opposite end (at the servo usually) with a felt tip marker where it lines up wit hthe hole in the servo arm. Farther out on the servo arm gives more throw to the control surface (and farther out on the control horn is LESS movement of the control surface). Then remove the rod and make a 90 degree bend where the mark is. Reinstall the rod and affix that end and then adjust the clevis until the control surface is zero degrees deflection with the servo centered.

Note that an adjustable fitting at both ends makes it likely the control rod may twist out of adjustment. Unless you are getting into the better grades it is better to have one end a fixed connector.

That makes plenty sense, however the dillema is that the slow stick is a fixed rod with a 90 degree bend at one end. The instructions are difficult to comprehend to say the least.

Is it a 90 degree bend in one end, and a threaded end at the other?

I usually put the 90 degree on the servo side.
There should be cleves that comes with that.
I usually cut little strips of fuel tubbing and slide those onto the rods first.
The tubbing is like an added safty feature to help prevent the celves from pop'in off of the servo arm or control horns.
Sometimes you have to do Z bends...so it dosn't do that. Usually on the control surface side.

Anyway..if you're too short or too long..try looking at how the servo should be mounted if it's an ARF.

The Slow Stick uses really thin pushrods that do not have clevises on the ends. I built both of mine just using z-bends on both ends of the pushrods.

The tricky part, is that both servos are attached to the same bracket. If both rods are bent a little bit long, or short, you can slide the whole bracket fore or aft to make up for it. If one is longer than the other, you have to make up for the difference using radio trim. You can also play with the angle of the control arm on the servo. Let's face it, the Slow Stick is not a precision aerobat.

I was always able to get mine close enough so that I could trim the rudder & elevator using the radio.

Good luck.

Would a set of DuBro mini-EZ connectors be good? My understanding is install these on the servo, and then can adjust the linkage accordingly via a set screw?

The DuBro EZ connectors are a great way to go, far superior to Z bends anda clevises on small models. Put the EZ's on the elevator and rudder so you can easily adjust them without having to fiddle with the servo end. They sure make initial setup and adjustments easy, maybe thats why they call the EZ connectors.