Go to the Academy of Model Aeronautics (AMA) web site, http://www.modelaircraft.org/ and click on "Rules" lower center box, or just go http://www.modelaircraft.org/events/compreg.aspx and come to a page with many topics.

You will find "Radio Control Aerobatics" (Pattern) and "Radio Control Scale Aerobatics" the IMAC schedules which use the models that look like real aerobatic aircraft.

Pattern is, IMO, the most disciplined aerobatic schedule/s especially the higher classes. Models are smaller than most IMAC models.
In any case, here you will find the latest words on the USA Competition rules and maneuvers.

Just to support what Hossfly said, the NSRCA pattern community is supported by the AMA and there are some very strict weight, size, and power limits for pattern planes. 2 meters in lenght, and a weight limit imposed of around 11 pounds, but I am not sure of the exact number there.

Now, that's for those that are probably at least in the Master category, although many Intermediate flyers use the 2 meter size ships. They are a tad more intimidating because they are much more expensive, so it's easy to get squeemish just before or during the take off roll. You just don't want to mess up that nice looking, expensive bird.

But there are several nice intermediate level pattern ships, starting out at the Venus 40, which will not break the bank and flys as good as their larger sister ships, just smaller. Then next up are the Excelleron 90, Venus II, and others, in the .90 to 1.20 size engine class.

I have a Goldberg Skylark 70 that I've been flying lately. I finally got it set up properly this past weekend (after putting on perhaps 20 - 30 flights on it) and it flys equally as straight as my Venus II pattern ship, but it is not considered a pattern ship. But, I do think it qualifies in the Senior Pattern community. I went through all of the Sportsman category maneuvers several times on Friday, and it looked good. My instructor/mentor, Ron, flew it and was duely impressed with how it performed, given what it was... which is NOT a pattern design, but flys straight and handles very nicely.

So, you do not have to spend all that money to move up to a pattern class plane. The Venus 40, Venus II, Excelleron 90, are all pattern class, but not bank breaking models, and the Skylark 70 is pattern capable if set up right and flown properly. By the way, my Skylark 70 has an OS .75 AX and the Venus II and Excelleron 90 both have OS 1.20 AX's installed. All three are on the Spektrum DX7 with their 7 channel RX and 6 volt pack (one on the Skylark and two each on the Venus and Excelleron 90). All have voltwatch.

One more thing. Most of the aircraft supplied with G3.5 are of the 3D type. I guess that's a sign of the times and the popularity of 3D type flying. Personally, I don't care for it, and prefer the more standard pattern type flying. So, you have to make due with what they have.

Typical design characteristics of a pattern ship are equal length and wingspan, large wing root tapered out to somewhat smaller wing tips, ailerons are usually perpendicular (or almost so) to the fuselage sides, with smaller than barn-door control surfaces without the balance bars of the elevators and rudders. The control throws are not set to 45 degrees..(exageration but it gets the point across) and are in fact minimum with the possible exception of the rudder. This is usually done so that you have more precision control (read resolution) by having large servo movement for small control surface movement. Engine sizes are selected to do good vertical climbs but not overpowered so that you hover at the top of the maneuver at half throttle.

CGr.

Morning CG-I have been practicing my pattern. Dishwasher to the washing machine to the ironing board to vacume to the oven back to the dishwasher. Just about got it down pat. I'm ready for the big time.

Thank you gaRCfield, Hossfly, GCRetired, Steinbring, overboard77, Nathan King, tIANci and others for the good information.

I got the Sebart Angel S ... once I got her trimmed I went out to fly a simple straight line with a Reversed Cuban turn around. It was a real joke. How do you keep her in the same line, at the same altitude and the same speed all the time? More practise I guess ... a lot more.

Pretty much. You need to make sure you pull up wings level, otherwise you're toast from the start. You must keep the aircraft in that same vertical plane during the whole maneuver. I usually start the 45 degree line at around half throttle - As I get toward the top I go down to about a quarter throttle. As I begin to pull it down to draw the 5/8 inside loop I go to idle. That typically keeps my speed constant. Even though I mentioned where I put my throttle during the maneuver I don't "step" down to those notches and stop. It's more one fluid motion with my left thumb. Note: my aircraft is highly powered, so half throttle for you will probably not cut it. You may need to begin around full depending on your power.

Have you trimmed out your aircraft carefully? If not, you'll be fighting it all the time. There's a lot more to trimming the aircraft than people think. It takes me a good couple months to trim out a new aircraft just how I like it.

Oooohh you trust Overbored? [X(]

Oh, sorry Chris.. didn't know you were reading this...

Dick.

Ain't that the truth. There is a whole series of steps to take to properly mechanically and electronically adjust trim for each and every control surface, and it takes time to do it right. They are procedureal, meaning step by step to be followed in order, mainly because each one may, can, will cause changes in the last adjustment you made, meaning you have to go back and do them all over again once you are done. Eventually, you will find that you will be going back and forth doing the same ones over again. At that point, you must choose what one you wish to live with and leave it alone, then consentrate on your flying with that slight handicap.

One main point is to be purposeful and careful when you handle your sticks. Pulling straight back toward you on the elevator without ANY input to the aileron, or pushing aileron left or right without any input to the elevator is tough to get done right. Many pattern folks dial in the most stick tension that they can get, and then some... (tighten the springs even more than the original configuration for instance) may be good for you. It all depends on how rough you are with stick inputs.

Mixing the controls.. typical coordinated turn, for instance, requires some delicate right stick movement with some rudder inupt, to get it right. Then once completed the turn, return to straight and level must be coordinated so that you are in fact flying straight and level. Then setting up the 1/2 reverse cuban eight, for instance, as long as your down-line is straight and level, and if you pull straight back on the elevator to set your initial 45 degrees up, then rolling to inverted...... and so on.... you are beginning to see what is involved here.

It all takes practice... again... burn fuel!!!

CGr.

One more thing. Most pilots try to compensate for every little twitch the plane makes. Try to get out of that habbit. Once trimmed for hands-off straight and level flight, then it flys straight and level!!! Leave it alone. Fly it as though you were hands-off for the straight lines. LEAVE IT ALONE. You will find that perhaps overcorrecting is a main problem, and trying to correct each and every little twitch that you may not have any control over, is near impossible.

Fly the plane, but don't overfly it. Let it go. Make your turn, and leave it alone and watch it go.. chances are, if you trimmed it right, it will go nice and straight.. and level, if you have trimmed it for that throttle setting.

Trust me on this. Next time out, try it. Take off, do a trim lap, make your turn, then slight adjustment to get straight and level and leave it alone. You will be surprised at how little input you will need to keep it that way.

Side benefit. Your RX battery will last longer!! How much longer depends on how much hands-on you WERE as compared to how much less you move the sticks. Again, none of this is done overnight. It takes time, but it comes to you after a while.

Those of you that know what I am talking about will be nodding your heads right about now. Those of you that do not, well, give it a try and soon, you will also be nodding your heads.

CGr.

I have been teaching people to fly for a long time and people who take to practicing pattern CRASH LESS OFTEN. Why, well they are not just wandering around the sky.

Like every one else says, practice the manouvres seperately maybe 3 or 4 different ones per flight. Then try and string them together.

Learn to fly the using the rudder to make corrections, this is a breakthrough for most pilots who use rudder on takeoff and stall turns only. Fly BIG manouvres and concentrate on keeping the wings level and the plane flying in a straight line. To begin with do not worry if it is looks ragged, you are learning which sticks to move for a given result. When it begins to be automatic then it will smooth out.

If your TX has rates and expo. set these up so that you need substantial stick movements for manouvres. I watch people trying to fly smooth slow rolls with a roll input of less than 1/8th inch of stick movement.

Almost any plane will let you learn pattern manouvres. You can even force a trainer through a a complete IMAC pattern flight but if you want to invest in an entry level pattern ship the Blackhorse Bravo 303 flies very nicely. I have had one. see http://www.philshobbyshop.com/tek9.a...cific=jodsemf0

A word of warning the pqattern bug can bite deeply and most pattern flyers buy rather than build. A quality FAI pattern ship in ARTF format will run $2000 plus and the builders usually have a waiting list

Thats it it's a school yard brawl, Meet me in front of the judges at the next contest. I TRIPLE DOG DARE you.