Should elevator move same in both directions?
#1
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From: Rochester,
NY
I'm putting together a Sig Kadet LT-40 ARF and CA boded the control surface for the elevator. Afterwards the control surface moves more downward than it does upwards. Is this normal or should I debond and start again? Thanks.
#2
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From: Huntersville,
NC
If Im understanding the question correctly, the answer can depend on whether or not you have enough up and down elevator throw according to the instructions.
For example; say you can move the elevator up 1.00 inch and down 1.13in but the instructions only call for .75in, then you dont have a problem. But if the instructions call for .75 inch and can only get something less, then you have a prob.
Cheers.
For example; say you can move the elevator up 1.00 inch and down 1.13in but the instructions only call for .75in, then you dont have a problem. But if the instructions call for .75 inch and can only get something less, then you have a prob.
Cheers.
#4

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When set up with all the linkage and adjusted then yes the elevator should move the same distance down as up.
It sounds as though you are just moving it with no linkage and checking maximum throw then that is not important as you will be likely removing maximum throw with with linkage adjustment.
In other words you want it to go up and down the same as listed in the manuals for high rate elevator, any more is unncessary.
John
It sounds as though you are just moving it with no linkage and checking maximum throw then that is not important as you will be likely removing maximum throw with with linkage adjustment.
In other words you want it to go up and down the same as listed in the manuals for high rate elevator, any more is unncessary.
John
#5
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As long as you are able to get the amount of throw that is recommended in the manual it won't matter if it moves more one direction than the other. If you can't get the recommended throws then you should take the time to fix it.
Ken
Ken
#6
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Do you mean that you installed the hinges, and now you can move it down further than you can move it up by hand? As long as you can move the elevators by hand without linkage hooked up, at least 1 1/2 times the movement called for in the instructions, you have no trouble.
When doing the control surfaces hinges, make sure the spacing is tight, but not to tight. RCKen has a good tutorial about installing CA hinges. Debonding a hinge is not something to try. If the hinges are installed badly, simply cut them off with an Xacto knife, cut new slots near the old ones and install new hinges. Trying to de-bond the CA will really not work unless you completly soak the wood in CA remover which means you are probably never going to be able to CA to it again, and also any glue joint inside are also going to be damged. Just don't try it. Simply cut the hinge and install the new ones close to where the first were installed. You can't install in the same place for the same reason you can't debond the CA and because the CA and the hinge material becomes rock hard, you can't cut new slots directly over the old ones.
If I have misunderstood your problem, please restate it with some more detail
Don
When doing the control surfaces hinges, make sure the spacing is tight, but not to tight. RCKen has a good tutorial about installing CA hinges. Debonding a hinge is not something to try. If the hinges are installed badly, simply cut them off with an Xacto knife, cut new slots near the old ones and install new hinges. Trying to de-bond the CA will really not work unless you completly soak the wood in CA remover which means you are probably never going to be able to CA to it again, and also any glue joint inside are also going to be damged. Just don't try it. Simply cut the hinge and install the new ones close to where the first were installed. You can't install in the same place for the same reason you can't debond the CA and because the CA and the hinge material becomes rock hard, you can't cut new slots directly over the old ones.
If I have misunderstood your problem, please restate it with some more detail
Don
#7
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Campgems,
I appreciate you tooting my horn, but I have to give credit where credit is due. Minnflyer did the CA Hinge How-to. That can be found here:
[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/article_display.cfm?article_id=55]Installing CA Hinges[/link]
I appreciate you tooting my horn, but I have to give credit where credit is due. Minnflyer did the CA Hinge How-to. That can be found here:
[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/article_display.cfm?article_id=55]Installing CA Hinges[/link]
#8
Senior Member
ORIGINAL: RCKen
Campgems,
I appreciate you tooting my horn, but I have to give credit where credit is due. Minnflyer did the CA Hinge How-to. That can be found here:
[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/article_display.cfm?article_id=55]Installing CA Hinges[/link]
Campgems,
I appreciate you tooting my horn, but I have to give credit where credit is due. Minnflyer did the CA Hinge How-to. That can be found here:
[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/article_display.cfm?article_id=55]Installing CA Hinges[/link]
Ahh some times you guys with the white hats are hard to tell apart. If you don't deserve credit for this one, then apply it to one you do deserve credit for

Don
#9
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From: el centro, CA
Sometimes you'll get glue jammed on the hinges. Othertimes you didn't bevel the control LE even.
Other times you didn't set the servo arm correctly. Othertimes you didn't aligned hinge slots correctly.
If you didn't use sometype of lubrcaint on the hinge line of the hinges, sometimes it'll get stiff.
Liquid travel up hill or gets absorb uphill. The fibers on CA hinges will absorb accordingly.
If you have a computerized TX. You can re program the servo's center position.
It is however suggested that you get it as close as you can to a 90/90 manually.
You can also dial out the travel movent on just oneside of the servo using a computerized TX.
It will be stronger pulling than pushing due to flex of the rods.
I think it's in a pulling position for down elevator, though.
Other times you didn't set the servo arm correctly. Othertimes you didn't aligned hinge slots correctly.
If you didn't use sometype of lubrcaint on the hinge line of the hinges, sometimes it'll get stiff.
Liquid travel up hill or gets absorb uphill. The fibers on CA hinges will absorb accordingly.
If you have a computerized TX. You can re program the servo's center position.
It is however suggested that you get it as close as you can to a 90/90 manually.
You can also dial out the travel movent on just oneside of the servo using a computerized TX.
It will be stronger pulling than pushing due to flex of the rods.
I think it's in a pulling position for down elevator, though.
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From: cando,
MO
That is what it seems to me. After hooking up servos. Make sure servo is centered with radio and plane on. It will deviate if you center without them on. You can move the servo arm to adjust this making it off center just a bit. But evens up and down. You can adjust travel movement with your radio if your radio is cabable. Get your manuel for TX and do what it says to adjust servo movement. You can get it done. IF you need and are a member of a club some of your club members will know how to make it right. And can probabaly do it at the field. Good luck.



