I am currently building a Sig 4* 40. I have not gotten time in a while to work on it, but it is coming along slowly but surely.

The question I had is this. When I installed the aileron torque rods onto the trailing edge of the wing, I was sure to keep CA out of the brass bearings. But, later on as I was trying to fix a peice of sheeting on the rear of the wing, some thin CA snuck into one of the bearings (you all know how thin CA likes to travel). I did not notice it when it happened, and I found out later. Anyways, the rod is not completely locked up, it can move, but it is a lot harder to move that one than the other completely free one. I was wondering if there is anything I could do to try to remedy this mistake, or do I have to take it off and get a new one from Sig and try again? I have tried putting debonder in the bearing a couple of times and flushing it out, and it seems to help a little, but not completely fix the problem.

Any ideas, hints or tricks that will help me out would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

You may want to use acetone and work with it a little more.

I know CA won't last too long if it comes in contact with nitro.
Mayby try squirting some nitro in thar, or WD40..anytype of lubricant.
The CA is probably just on the edge of the plastic sleeve.

Acetone helps.

Alright, thanks guys. I will try some acetone when I get home tonight.

I have never been able to get torque rods to install correctly. I always seem to muck it up no matter how careful I am and did so on the 4* too. I solved that by putting a mini in each wing panel.

Mike

Kitbuilder has the right answer. It gives you a lot of options also, like flapperons.

I'm susprised the 40 has a single servo. The 60 has a nice setup designed into the wings for individual servos. Nice close linkage and real tight. Give it a try.

Don

Alright, I will look into that. Thanks.

They are reall easy to do. Just pick a bay about 1/3 the way down the wing from the fuselage. Get some 1/4" bass wood or other harderer wood and glue a strip along the servo bay, 1/16" below the rib edge. Glue a cross piece across each of those strips and then put a 1/4" balsa across these ends, but flush whith the edge of the ribs. Cut 1/16" ply to fit this opening, clip the corners just a bit. Two 1/2" square lugs epoxied on end and a whole cut for the servo arm. A #2 sheet metal screw in each corner, cover and go.
I think these photos will give you the idea. Just position the lugs and the slot so you get full movement of the servo arm. Set them up about three inches from the hinge lilne

Don

That looks pretty easy to accomplish. And it just so happens that I have the servo to do it with as well. When I bought my servos from towerhobbies, I took advantage of their bulk discount and bought 6 servos instead of the needed 4 because it was pretty close to the same price.

Thanks for the pics, I will definitely be referencing them when I attempt this.

I didn't see anyone asking what kind of radio you are using. Not all radios lend themselves to things like Flaperons or spoilerons. Using A Y-harness kinda works but it leaves A lot left to be desired.
If you install your aileron servos about mid way on each wing half your servo isn't working as hard and it is holding better. You will also need extensions for the wires and make up paper tubes for the wires to run through so you can get things in and out through the wing ribs.
There is A bit more to installing two elevator and/or aileron servos then just mounting them but it's pretty simple.
I have just finished teaching my youngest student the art of building and we are ready to finish sand and cover his nice little 4*60. We did do A few mods but nothing very much, just A bigger rudder and clipped the wings. We reinforced the LG block and I just happened to have A better set of LGs for it.
I love the 4* series and it's A great learning tool plus A good flying plane.
Good luck!!

Gray Beard, don't forget to add a 1/4sq hardwood along the side to bottom seam on the bay just behind the wings and also run some tri stock up the sides to former seam. A block between the wing hold down blocks is also good insurance. The other weak spot it the bottom to sides under the horziontal Stab. I snapped the tail off one when I stalled it on landing, dropped the nose and hit dead on the spinner, right wing and at that point the tail snapped off. This was my second 4*60

I snapped my first in half just behind the wing on my first solo flight. I came in to low for a landing and clipped the road across the end of the runway. Took out the landing gear mount and snapped the fuselage. I got it back to gether and soloed three days later.

I've got five kits in the garage now, but I'm really thingking hard about building another 4*60. I haven't had a good fun day flying since I killed my last one. Actually the day before I killed my last one

Don

I have a Spektrum DX6i, so dual aileron mixing is no problem for me.

Do it you won't be sorry. By useing 2 separete servos on ailerons it enables you to get them trimmed exactly right with one another as well as useing differential. You can also choose to go with flaperons or spoilerons. Whichever you use you will have to test fly t o determine if you need to mix some up or down elevator when in use. I have mine on all planes set to operate by the switch but also in conjuction with the throttle. While at it you may wish to mix some rudder in with ailerons when landing. At slow speeds rudder is more effective than ailerons. The beauty of this is that when controlled by switch/throttle if you wish to go around again just increase throttle and it removes the mixes. Try it you'll like it.