I'm just wondering about this because I may have the opportunity to get my hands on a .40 Ugly Stik frame (it's a longshot, but MAYBE). The catch is that I have all the electronics, but I only have 2 .60 engines (a Webra 10cc and an OSMax .60) and it's unlikely I'll be able to afford to buy a new engine any time soon, so I'm stuck with what I got.....

Could the engine mounts be strenthened and the engine bay modified to fit the bigger enines\? And what would it fly like ? (other than a bat-out-of-hell !) I know I'm going to have to rebalance the CG (probably lead in the tail), but will this thing fly "reasonably" or is this just a recipie for a high speed burn-in disaster?

I just don't want to make a plane that's totallly unflyable..... I know I don't want to put it into a WOT dive and have the wings sheer off..........

Good heavens, then don,t put it into a WOT dive! Full throttle is for those times you are going the other direction, you know UP.

Don't put lead on the tail unless you have too. I'd mount the battery pack further back if i had to.
Heck I'd remount the servos before I add lead. That's roughly 6-8 oz of wieght that can be shuffle around.

The .60 is going to be roughly 6-8oz heavier enough as it is. You can get way with it but if you start adding more
wieght to balance it. It'll be a brick, brick.

You can shave the mount a little bit, but I'd just get an adjustable mount.
I don't think an ugly stick has cowling..so you're not going to have the engine fiting problems.

If it is anything like the last .40 size Stik ARF that I bought, it may just NEED the extra weight of a .60 to not be tail heavy. Prop ground clearance may be an issue, especially if it's a trike. Stik taildraggers are so docile that you really have to have taildragger phobia to build them as trikes.

Do it! When time and money allow, put a 40/46 in it later. You will then have first hand experience that lighter flies better. It's always fun to experiment and good experience to learn to use the left stick.

Thanks for the advice! I knew I could count on this board for alot of good tips. It sounds like the wing loading won't be an issue and that any balance issues can be overcome with a variety of techniques (from shuffling the internal electronics-1st choice- or adding "artificial weight" like lead-2nd choice)

It sounds like there really aren't any "aeronautical" reasons why this can't be done. I'll bet it'll climb straight up like a ROCKET!!!! [>:] And in level flight it's likely to be BLINDLY fast at WOT -> I'll be setting the throws to a "low gain" setting - ESPECIALLY the throttle! I cant really see a good reason why I should need to go full throttle if 2/3 is most likely to be faster than I can handle for now!

Two of the main reasons I was wondering about this is that I now have two .60 size glow-engines ( a Webra 10ccm <0.61> and an OS MAX FP 0.60 ) that I can use and 60 sized airframes are typically significantly more expensive than 40's - if you don't have any cowl to worry about fitting (like the "open engine" design of the Stik's) I could sure use the cash saved ! Being unemployed is really harsh in this sport [:@] and every penny really counts right now.... I've been very, very lucky so far in that ALL of my equipment has been "hand me downs" from either my father in law or old friends who have extra planes and stuff they can "donate" so I can learn [8D] I've even got a batch fo Futaba servos coming my way in the mail b/c my friend got into "giant" scale and switched to JR servos. Whatever the reasons, I'm eternally grateful for the generosity shown to me [sm=angel_smile.gif]