AS in moving from one plane to another?

I have a spektrum 6200 in my glow trainer and I'm buying a multiplex easy glider today.

I'll eventually but another 6200 RX for the glider but putting it all on one bill may be a bit of a shock to the wife....if ya know what I mean ;-)


Is it bad to move the RX from plane to plane for a week or two?

Also do you think I could get away with one of the lesser park flyer RX's? I'm using a DX6i TX


Thanks

Steve

Hey Steve.

The receivers themselves are pretty tough. However, the antenna that stick out is not. constant bending of the antenna could cause them to come loose, If you MUST move it often, Consider shrink tubing the antenna. I shrink tube all of it and only leave about a 1mm of it at the tip. Some people just shrink the part where it enters the receiver so it doesn't kink often.

As far as for your easy glider, 6200 is not needed. You'll be fine with a 6100 park flyer.

This is not correct. A park flyer receiver should not be used in a glider, as gliders are capable of the same flight distances as "regular" planes. In fact, many time gliders will be flown up to an altitude much MUCH higher than most planes are flown at, and the reduced range from a park flyer receiver could wind up with loss of control of the aircraft. In fact, if you've ever seen a glider get "stuck" in a thermal you will know just how high they can go. When this happens the gliders can easily be a "speck" in the sky when they finally come out of the thermal.

To answer the original question, yes you can move them from plane to plane. What n19tmare stated about some heat shrink on the antenna wires to protect them is good advice.

Ken

I have moved my Futaba receivers from plane to plane without any problems. Receivers that have been through a crash, I send to the factory for a checkup, even if they seem to work fine. I would think any receiver that is suitable for a particular airplane and compatible with your transmitter would be OK, but guys with a lot more experience than me might disagree.

As I said earlier, you can move them with no problems. While you are doing a 2.4 Ghz radio and this doesn't apply as much because you don't have the long antenna wire, Minnflyer and I regularly move radios in this very manner. Since we do reviews there are times that we will put the radio in a plane JUST for the review. As most times we know that we're not going to keep the planes after the review so it's a waste of time to permanently install the antenna wire. So what we do is run the wire for the antenna (72 mhz radio) down through a plastic tube. We then install the receiver and stick that tube down through the fuselage. This works perfectly and makes it easy for us to remove the radio and move it to another plane.

With 2.4 radios this is even easier because you don't have the long 3' of antenna wire. An easy remedy for doing this with a 2.4 radio is to put a bit of velcro on the outside of your padding for the receiver and it's remote, and the mating part of velcro in the fuselage where you want it to mount. Then you can simply "stick" the receiver and remote in place when you move it from plane to plane.

Hope this helps

Ken

There are about 4-5 Easy Gliders and custom built gliders like the "frog" at my field.. All run on 6100 and 6000 park receivers and they are always higher than any glow plane at our field. To the point where you can barely see them.

You're not gonna be zooming through the skies and doing insane maneuvers, it's a glider.

And that has absolutely nothing to do with what type of receiver is or is not appropriate.

We're talking about a 2-meter glider here. That can easily be flown further away than your common 40-size model, simply because it's larger and thermalling lends itself to distances. It's irresponsible to put a park flyer receiver in such a model, and irresponsible to recommend that someone do that.

Absolutely. In addition, if the glider were to fly away and cause damage to property or another person (yes, a glider is quite capable of this) there is a good chance that your insurance (AMA or your home owners) will not cover you because you are using equipment that wasn't designed for what you are using it for.

Ken

The main thing I would be worried about would be the contacts wearing and loosening from repeated cycling. This would probably take years of routine swapping to happen, so I wouldn't worry about it.

And ditto on the no parkflyer receivers in gliders comment. I wouldn't want to worry about loosing signal as I'm specking out in a good thermal.

I returned the 6100 RX and got the 6200 RX. It will be safer with the glider and I'll be able to swap it out with any plane I get in the future.

About the battery in this thing.
It calls for NiMH (AA cells) 8 cell 1500 mAh
The closest I could do at any of 3 LHS was an 8 cell 1100 mAh (I think its a sub C size?) its only 1" wide, smaller than the AA's.
I'm going to use that so I can fly this weekend and order the correct battery.
I understand the differenc from 1100mAh VS 1500mAh but whats the difference in size do?

I had to pass on the pro version glider and get the bushed motor version due to cost...Oh well...

I hate when the LHS just sells you what they have, (wrong battery). I get home and read the instruction only to find it might work but its not what the plans call for...Also I was going to buy CA kicker and he said just use epoxy. Get home and the instuctions say NOT to use epoxy...
So another trip to a different LHS to get kicker...To paint this foam they say to use a sealer first, no LHS has it but they all suggested different methods of painting it... I think I'll order the sealer they recomend as It could make a mess if the paint doesnt work correctly...

Not much to put together so I should be flying tommorow..

Steve

The setup I have is circa 1980 - Futaba Tx, Rx, AND servos too > ALL from the early 80's! No kidding! And to top it off, they were ALL swapped around between the plane (the Falcon I have) and the Hirobo Shuttle heli (that I also have) regularly depending on what my father-in-law felt like flying that day. I even managed a perfect "3 point landing" in the top of a 60' pinetree with that same Rx strapped into it and it had to stay up there for 3 days while we put together a pvc pole long enough to knock it down. And even after 3 days of weather, it still works like a champ!

So, and this is just my opinion, Futaba receivers and servos are built like bricks!!!! After 30 years of flying usage and NUMEROUS crashes and it stuff STILL works ????? Hey, that makes me a Futaba customer for LIFE I have been told by many veteran pilots, that JR equipment is better on many different levels (especially when controlling Giant scale craft; the people I know like the response time and torque better than the Futaba servos; I don't know what the "specs" say for each, this is just what they've expressed to me), but for my application -> "trainer" planes, I'm sold on them

This is just my experience with Futaba equipment and swapping equipment from plane to plane and from plane to heli; NO problems AT ALL. I do try to be somewhat careful on installing and removing the connectors, there's no point in causing damage due to "rough handling" and I can see where that may cause problems with connection shorts. So far I haven't seen those issues, but like I said, I'm pretty careful when I connect everything up.

"I understand the differenc from 1100mAh VS 1500mAh but whats the difference in size do? "

The mAh rating of the battery is the capacity, or size of the battery. The smaller the battery, the shorter the run time. A smaller Mah rating also generally means more voltage drop under load, but possibly not in this case if you went from AA to sub C, but without knowing the impedance of the cells, I can't really say. Using a 1100mAh instead of the 1500mAh should be fine, but you will have slightly less run time.