Marco S.

Hi,
does anybody know where I can buy brakes for 2 1/2" wheels?

Those Uni-brakes from http://www.robart.com/Brakes.aspx seens to be very nice but I can´t find where to buy.

opjose

What plane do you plan on putting them into?

Marco S.

I plan to put it in a trainer.
I don´t have to much space to land in the "field" where a fly.

Do you know where I can buy a eletric or pneumatic brake that fit into 2 1/2" or 3" wheel?

bruce88123

Waste of money on a trainer. Put a piece of fuel tubing on the axle between the wheel and the wheel collars and then let the collars squeeze the wheel a bit. This will cause drag and slow the plane down enough. They can be over-powered with the engine for taxi.

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

bruce88123

Thanks for the drawing Ken. I even put a collar on both sides and then tubing on both sides for more braking action if needed.

opjose

Dubro used to sell some rediculously cheap and simple brakes that worked wonderfully.

You basically insert a small drum next to the wheel, which latches onto it.

A small wire spring is wound around the drum.

Then there is a filament line that connects to your elevator servo from the spring.

When you move the elevator up or down ( depending upon your setup and preferance, though down is better to avoid take off problems ) the wire spring tightens around the drum acting as a brake.

I picked up six of these for $2.00/ea at an LHS closeout sale.

JohnW

My Feedback: (6)

Ditto on the overkill factor for pneumatic brakes on a trainer. The setup would cost more than the trainer by the time you get valves, tank, tubing, gauges, etc. On any trainer I’ve flown, there really should be no need for a braking system as the planes land so slow to begin with. As for the tubing on the axel, that works well. A variation on that idea, I’ve done something similar with a spring, 2 metal washers and 1 rubber washers. I glued a metal washer to the wheel, then glued a rubber washer to that. Put on wheel, slide on last metal washer and solder spring to washer. Compress with wheel collar and solder spring to collar. More complicated, than the tubing, but the same basic an idea as the tubing and much more braking force. I use this method on most of my 2M pattern ships and it worked quite well.

opjose

Good idea.

Of course the biggest problem with both the tubing and the rubber washer ( or "O" ring which others have mentioned ), is that the material wears down rather quickly, requiring re-adjustment quite often.

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

Not as fast you would think. I've had this setup on my Kaos for over 2 years and there is very little wear on it. I don't think I've even had to retighten it at all .

Ken

bruce88123

I've never had to adjust one either, once I had the correct pressure set.

opjose

Two years, heck one whole season is MORE than "acceptable"!!

Sounds good.

The Ghost

Marco, If you realy want brakes you will have to check out Jet suppliers. You can find them [link=http://www.intairco.net/default.asp?page=products&cat=2&subcat=146&MenuOpen=p7menu2]HERE[/link]

Cheers

bruce88123

Yep, $200+ brakes on a trainer. Now that makes sense.[:@]

jetmech05

perhaps you should re-think where you plan to fly.....even a trainer is moving faster than you might think.....buildings and people in the approach or departure end of your flying site just isn't a good Idea...it's not if will you have a dead stick but when...sometimes you just aren't going to make it back to the runway.....
either fly in a larger space or get a park flyer...good luck

F-15J_JSDF

Sometimes it does not matter how big your runway or park is ..

Check this out

http://jp.youtube.com/watch?v=4hYNOFDRL8M

Marco S.

Thanks all for the help and tips... brakes are expensive for a trainer but I can use in another airplane in the future.