What is your preferred method for connecting ush rods to servos? I have ez connectors, which some more experienced pilots don't care for and I have used zbends. I appreciate any feedback and links to the products you like.

Bighog

A lot of people don't like them, but I use EZ connectors on a lot of planes up to 90-size.

The trick is to hold the connector with a pair of pliers as you tighten the screw, don't just let the pushrod hold it from turning because you can't tighten it enough that way.

I must say MinnFlyer I really appreciate you guys, RCKen, you, Missielman, Bingo field and several others.. I have learned so much on this forum. Been building for a number of years, but I am now a better builder than I was. Thanks all.

The screw lock connectors will probably always be a controversial subject. If they really are tight they seem to be fine and they are definitely my first choice for the throttle.

One easy connection is a 90 degree bend in the wire and a nylon lock. I use these a lot.
The links are for #2 pushrods. They are available for #4 also.
Dubro
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAZC3&P=0
Great Planes
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXK086&P=0

One time I used a wheel collar as a lock on a wire with a 90 degree bend.

My 4*60 has a steel clevis silver soldered at the servo end and a regular clevis threaded on the control surface end.

I even use EZs on bigger planes, not often but sometimes I get into A set up bind and they bail me out. One of the tricks with them is to use the metal keeper with the rubber one right behid it so they don't come loose and start wobbling around on you. I don't care for the Z bends but they are fool proof and never come undone. Almost all of my controls are rods and clevises with one being A solder clevis or I use rigging couplers and make up my own pull/pull system. I almost always use an EZ on one end of my throttle, sometimes both. What ever works but the EZs do loosen up and wobble around. Too bad I haven't been able to find the screw on type that come with some ARFs or I would use them more often.

All of the above. I also have used heavy duty ball links as well.
Note: when using EZ connectors put a drop of blue threadlock (locktite) on the set screw.
I have a few EZ's that bolt to the servo arm rather than using a clip. (came with a Seagull ARF I had) I really like them and feel more secure but I haven't been able to find them for sale anywhere.

Great information, thanks for all the feedback!

I really like the [link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXK099&P=ML]screw lock[/link] connectors because they make it very easy to setup the plane, but they are a little pricey. I use a little Tamiya thread lock on them and tighten them down good, never had a problem. Otherwise I use whatever comes with the ARF or whatever I have on hand. The cheapest route is no connectors at all, just a Z-bend at both ends. That's the most difficult, since you have to get the length just right when you bend it (not adjustable), and you have to pull the servo arm off of the servo (or the control arm off of the control surface) to connect it.

Here here!

I use them extensively as well, on planes up to 1.80 in size.

In addition to what Minnflyer says I ALWAYS put a drop of Loctite blue on the screw to prevent it working loose.

As a result of the above combination I have yet to have a connector fail.

Most frequently I use a Z Bend (Using a Dubro Z bender for perfect bends) on one end or the other and threaded rod on the other end for a clevis or a soldered on threads.

I avoid ninety degrees bends with keepers because they frequenty cause interferance not allowing sufficient clearance for full throw when the rod needs to be kept to a closer hole to the servo (something that needs to be done with most trainers in the training environment.

I always use easyjusts on every airplane for throttle but only throttle and never on any of the three axis flight controls. Its is not for fear that the set screw will come loose but instead for the loosening of the the plastic keeper washer that will occur and the resulting linkage slop that will happen no matter how tight you get the washer. The metal with the spring teeth are no better simply because its just about impossible to get them tight enough even initially to prevent rocking. This loosening in either case is caused simply by the rocking as a result of the pushrod not in line with the output horn but instead above or below. If its tight initially it will soon start the rocking as the plastic of the horm will wear in an oblong hole as the rocking continues.

You may want to note that some competition rules for some competitive events specifically spell out no EZjusts on any flight controls except throttle.


John

The other place they work well is on the nose gear steering servo. Makes it very easy to center the nose wheel after flight trimming the rudder.

There is a special little wrench which is specifically made for the EZ connectors. I have a number of them, and I seem to remember getting one at the same time I bought the connectors. Maybe it came in the package with the connectors, or maybe I bought it separately, I can't remember. Never- the- less, it fits over the EZ connector's hex shape like a "box end wrench" and holds the body of the connector from turning while you tighten the set screw with a screwdriver. I always keep one in my flight box.

Lm

Well, I use the term "EZ Connectors" in a generic form.

Actually, the ones I use are from Du-Bro and they are round, hence the pliers.

The nice thing about using pliers is that they fit every brand and I don't have to keep track of a silly little tool.

I too use the one size fits all pliers to hold them when I tighten the screw. I don't use lock tight at all because I have had the screws stick and they are A pain to remove. So far never had one come loose but that could just be luck. A trick!!! Buy some cheap needel nose pliers, grind off the tip then drill A small hole in the tip big enough for the connectors shaft. Now you have A tool for installing them and it only cost A couple of bucks. I just made one up for A student today, 3 bucks!!

i have used the "z" bend and the 90 with nylon lock
making a z bend is not that hard
i unscrew the servo horn so it it only "stuck" on not screwed on, then power on my radio set the trims at 0 then attach one zbend to the control surface
the other i do not bend yet i hold the wire on the servo horn (where i might want to zbend it) while moving the tx stick and checking the throw, most of the time it is not what (e.x. i like to have more up elevator then down) so i adjust the servo horn (manual not on tx) and try again. once i get what i want make a 90 bend put it through the horn make sure it is what i want. then make the second bend or add the lock then screw the servo horn in and make the final adjustments on my tx

hope that makes some sense

this works w/ electrics, i ordered a 40 gasser and will try this method when i get it

Adding to what Minn said:
Do NOT reuse them. If you take them off of the control arm discard them.
Especially the keeper that holds them to the control arm.
This advice came from the DuBro rep at the AMA convention one year.
I brought this controversy up with him and it was his suggestion.
He said they aren't designed to be reused.
I use them but I am very willing to discsard them, they are cheap.
Good Luck,
KW_Counter

I've had an EZ connector fail...when I was teaching a student to taxi before teaching takeoffs....she taxied down the runway and stopped so it was a little up hill on grass..add a little power more,.. more,.. more, the plane moves she turns it around 180, she doesn't pull power off....so here we are at 1/2 throttle going down hill she hands me the transmitter...anyway the connector came off the servo arm...oh yea the plane was fine nice long takeoff roll flew until the engine quit and dead sticked it
I couldn't have done anything if the connector had failed on a control surface in flight...
I'll use an EZ on throttle but not on a control surface....my 2 cents
Good flyin to ya

Any kind of connector can fail, thats just the nature of the beast.
I actually had an EZ connector pop out of the servo arm on my Brightstar on one of my ailerons on takeoff (why I like the bolt on ones rather than the ones with the clip)
Wierdest thing and a topic for conversation. The plane tried to roll right so I fought it until I was high enough. I thought I had bumped the trim switch so I trimmed it out. flew a full flight and had a beautifull landing. I don't look at my trim switch when I make adjustments so I never new it was way to one side and on a low flyby the fluttering aileron I dismissed as an optical illusion from the bright sun reflecting off the wing. When I went to pick the plane up is when I finally noticed the aileron flopping loose. Got quite a laugh from the guys.

That's a good story!

My first few planes all used a 90* bend with the nylon keepers. Then I got the Venus, which has solder clevises on one end and screw clevises on the other. Being a 'pattern style' plane, I assumed this was the 'right way' to do it. Until I ran short of solder connectors and have one aileron with a 90* bend and nylon keeper, and the other aileron with a solder clevis. I think there's actually less play in the side with the bend!

I think the important things are a) that the thing stays on, and b) that there is no 'slop' in the linkage.

The problem I have with "Special Tools" is that whenever I need one, it hides on me.

I just use whatever pair of pliers is handy and place a scrap of balsa or ;ite ply between the lower jaw and the pin.

Now, as I squeeze, the pin can embed itself into the wood.

You guys amaze me with all of the good ideas. do you realize how big my book is of tips from RCU. I probably should have put it on a scroll.

It's not a silly little tool. It works perfectly. If you have trouble looking after "special tools" keep them in your flight box like I do. I can always find mine........haven't lost my flight box yet.

Lm

That doesn't do me any good when I'm in my basement and the flight box is in the garage.

Of course, I could go all the way out to the garage and get it, but you can bet that when I need it at the field, it'll be sitting in my basement. [:@]

No thanks, I can live without special tools.

The trouble I had with the EZ type connectors was that they seemed to loosen on the servo arm a little bit, alowing them to rock back and forth. That would introduce some slop in the setup. I stopped using them on control surface linkage years ago. Now it's always a Z bend at the servo arm and a clevis at the other end. That setup has never failed me. I especially like these clevis'. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXWH32&P=V
Paul