saito .56
12-07-2008, 11:34 PM
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saito .56
Hi guys, my fatherinlaw got a saito .56 for his bipe,he has taken the jump from electric to glow and I am going to probly break this engine in for him on the bench.I have never owned a fourstroke engine or broken one in. (just twostrokes)Is there any tips on breaking it in?
Thanks
Thanks
12-08-2008, 12:37 AM
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RE: saito .56
Just broken in the Saito 56 and installed it in a 4*40. As Ken said I followed the instructions in the manual with the engine mounted on the workbench.
Look at www.saito-engines.info for some really good instructions, essentially what is in the manual but expanded upon and in a step by step format and good english
Enjoy, the engine sounds fantastic. I run it with an APC 12x6 at around 9500rpm WOT could not be happier with it.
Look at www.saito-engines.info for some really good instructions, essentially what is in the manual but expanded upon and in a step by step format and good english
Enjoy, the engine sounds fantastic. I run it with an APC 12x6 at around 9500rpm WOT could not be happier with it.
12-08-2008, 12:37 AM
#4
RE: saito .56
This is a ringed engine
Just treat it like it was a ringed two stroke in the very beginning. They are a little different but you will soon pick up on the differences.
The new Saitos come from the factory with the idle needle set very rich. After you have run a couple tanks through it, start trying to get your idle set.
After setting your high speed needle for peak, go down to idle and get the idle needle as lean as you can and still get a good transition to high speed just like you would on a two stroke
Move the idle mixture in 1/8 turn increments just like on the two stroke. After your idle is set, go back to hidh speed and richen it up 3 or 4 clicks
The standard prop for this engine is a 12-6
http://saito-engines.info
Just treat it like it was a ringed two stroke in the very beginning. They are a little different but you will soon pick up on the differences.
The new Saitos come from the factory with the idle needle set very rich. After you have run a couple tanks through it, start trying to get your idle set.
After setting your high speed needle for peak, go down to idle and get the idle needle as lean as you can and still get a good transition to high speed just like you would on a two stroke
Move the idle mixture in 1/8 turn increments just like on the two stroke. After your idle is set, go back to hidh speed and richen it up 3 or 4 clicks
The standard prop for this engine is a 12-6
http://saito-engines.info
12-08-2008, 09:52 AM
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RE: saito .56
I own and have broken in several new saito's and with luck the last one was a .56, I put it on a hanger 9 .40 size cub.
Yes, follow the instructions, I used a really good 10% caster oil blend fuel with 20 % oil for the break in and switched to a cheaper blended caster fuel.
The one extra bit of advice is to check and set the valves before during and after break-in. I know a lot of people don't want to or don't feel they can , but this is a must and they have to be set right. They may be right to begin with but will have to be reset during or after break-n.
Get a good set of feeler gages, ones with inch and metric on them ( each blade with have inch and the metric equivalent on then). The book calls for .002 in. (.03mm) to .004 in. (.10 mm), does not matter which scale you use just stay with one or the other. I use the inch .002 to .004.
the engine is cold and the valve you are going to set has the rocker arm is in the up position ( I rotate the engine untill one of the rockers go down and then set the other valve, that way I know the one I am setting is all the way up)
adj. it untill the .004 won't slide between the rocker arm and the valve head and the .002 will, you have them set right.
I general recheck them, I rotate the engine and get the valve up and check both feelers again. I keep rechecking untill i don't have to readj. them.
once the engine is broke in , I general never have to reset the valves, and that means flying tine for break-in also.
This is a must if you want the engine to run well and it will if you do this right. I own several and they all run great, guys at the field really like the way my cub with the .56 on it idles down to 1800 rpm's and holds and comes back.
If you don't want to set the valves yourself get some 4 cycle freek like me to help you, we love to play with these engines and could get you started out right.
you will be sold on them , when you get done. good luck
sticks
Yes, follow the instructions, I used a really good 10% caster oil blend fuel with 20 % oil for the break in and switched to a cheaper blended caster fuel.
The one extra bit of advice is to check and set the valves before during and after break-in. I know a lot of people don't want to or don't feel they can , but this is a must and they have to be set right. They may be right to begin with but will have to be reset during or after break-n.
Get a good set of feeler gages, ones with inch and metric on them ( each blade with have inch and the metric equivalent on then). The book calls for .002 in. (.03mm) to .004 in. (.10 mm), does not matter which scale you use just stay with one or the other. I use the inch .002 to .004.
the engine is cold and the valve you are going to set has the rocker arm is in the up position ( I rotate the engine untill one of the rockers go down and then set the other valve, that way I know the one I am setting is all the way up)
adj. it untill the .004 won't slide between the rocker arm and the valve head and the .002 will, you have them set right.
I general recheck them, I rotate the engine and get the valve up and check both feelers again. I keep rechecking untill i don't have to readj. them.
once the engine is broke in , I general never have to reset the valves, and that means flying tine for break-in also.
This is a must if you want the engine to run well and it will if you do this right. I own several and they all run great, guys at the field really like the way my cub with the .56 on it idles down to 1800 rpm's and holds and comes back.
If you don't want to set the valves yourself get some 4 cycle freek like me to help you, we love to play with these engines and could get you started out right.
you will be sold on them , when you get done. good luck
sticks
12-08-2008, 11:13 AM
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RE: saito .56
good pic's w8ye, the saito will be a little different but its the same thing. Is that a O.S. head? I would also add , the book has a drawing of the valve setting
[img][/img]
you shold have a book with these in it, between w8's and these you should be able to do it. but it would not hurt to get help if needed the first time.
sticks
[img][/img]
you shold have a book with these in it, between w8's and these you should be able to do it. but it would not hurt to get help if needed the first time.
sticks
12-08-2008, 09:57 PM
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RE: saito .56
Wow great info there guy's,I am going to send this post to my wifes dad.Today I found out he took the .56 back and got the saito .90 I think he got it for a good price $240.00 no tax But i'm guessing it should be the same to break in as the .56 and yes I told him to read the manual a couple of times to.
Thanks again
But i'm guessing it should be the same to break in as the .56 and yes I told him to read the manual a couple of times to.Thanks again
