I had one finally setup, and I couldn't get enough throw out of the servo to move it, I think it will take a longer arm to fully extend and close the arm.


Is it normal to have to bend the rod a significant amount to get it hooked up correctly to one of these motors? I know I will never build a kit intending to use one without the motor on hand.....

Yes

This LT40 originally had a Tower 46 engine and now has a OS 52 four stroke The throttle rod comes out of the firewall in the original position and notice the bends in the throttle rod

Hmmm.....


I'll have to make the trip to the LHS for more 4-40 rod monday.


thanks for the pic btw, that's pretty much how I did it, I just need to get some bending pliers so I get a nice precise bend this time.

4-40 rod may not be hard enough

I use .060" piano wire

I also use one of these on the servo arm so I can adjust the length

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXK099&P=ML

Ideas on where to acquire that?

I got the piano wire at the hobby shop in town.



Power Heli's LLC
dba Power R/C Hobbies
Bryan, TX 77803
(979)779-2151

American Aerospace
6113 Highway 21 East
Bryan, TX 77808
(979)778-9464

I'll look for it. Hobby lobby may be a source, or a hardware shop.

Quit fighting the linkage. Use a cable and route to the carb. Remember, if the linkage is way out of alignment, rotate the carb 180 and move it to the other side.

What you may run into is that there isn't enough movement to the firewall side. In that case, I shorten the cable end up. I cut the brass solder on so it had 1/2 the length at the cable end. I cut the threads off so there is just about 3/16" thread. I use a snap on ball joint and I cut the thread end of it so it bottoms on the shortened brass adaptor. Then adjust the horn on the carb so the carb is full in the direction of the firewall just prior to all of this bottoming out.

I tried all of the 4 stroke linkages, bent wires, etc and a direct connection is the best. I have used this direct connect it eight different planes over the last three years. That includes engines mounted upright, on their side and 3/4 inverted and I've yet to find a plane that I had to use a bunch of bent wire to make the throttle work. Remember, you don't have to use the same throttle linkage hole in the firewall. You are free to drill another where you need it. The cable linkage will snake around the fuel tank. The photo is of one of my 4*60's with the shortened linkages.

Don

I just set mine up as shown. Lots of adjustment.

Cheers

With the cab;e- is that just run directly though a piece of tubing? My problem is my carb is either dead center of the plane, or in an awkward position on the side of the firewall.


How is that bellcrank attached to that motor mount? Is it just a screw or a bolt with loctite on a jam nut?


My biggest problem right now is, the cheek of the tiger make anything like that a real PITA(I've notched it for the needl at this point as well...)

The belcrank is attached to the engine mount with a self tapping screw. It does not come loose. The cable is setup as a normal throtal setup.

Cheers

Here are two more setups

I fly mainly 4 strokes and have tried many different setups. The flexable cable has worked the best for me . It will snake around the fuel tank and still operate smooth as silk. It runs direct to the carb , no wire bending or pivots to set up and it`s very light weight. The other setups work fine , but coming out of the firewall right behing the carb, the cable is the cleanest looking and lightest way I`ve found to go.
I generally use Dubro 20 in flex cable , their only a couple of bucks. Sorry the pics dont show what I was looking for, but in the SlowPoke , can you see a cable. I comes out right behind the engine, on the Ultimate , you can see where the hole is for the cable to come out.
Just finished a Extra 260 and will try to get you some better picks , after I plow all the snow we got last nite .

After using my first flexible cable on the 4* I built, I'll never use wire again. And after using the flexible cable and the screw lock connectors like w8ye linked too on my GP Corsair I'll definately never use anything else.

All of the above but most the time I use cable if I can.

Mission successful after much cursing. Ran the cable down the right side of the fuse, used a screw type connector on the throttle arm and it work like a charm.

If you are happy - We are happy

One more option is to use a micro servo in the engine compartment. I saw this setup a couple of years ago, and the RC'er said that it worked just fine. He put a think coating of RTV or silicon on the servo, except for the main shaft area, and fabricated a mount in a position that allowed him to do what he wanted with the throttle.

This will work, of course, if there is enough room in the engine compartment.

CGr.

I had considered that but the main problem wasn't where the linkage was coming from, but the clearance behind it on the firewall.

I've tried to do what you have set up in the first pic with my Saito .82 on my SS60, but I seem to have too much flex at the extreme ends of travel and I'm not getting full idle or full open. Any ideas on how to solve this? I may look at it when I get home tomorrow and see if the cable type might work better.

If Minnflyer's set up doesn't work, something is wrong with your throttle

The throttle must move freely full travel

Here's the link that will fix your problems. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXD939&P=FR

Just go [link=http://saito-engines.info/throttle_setup.html]HERE[/link] to find out about Satio engine setup. Regardless of how you setup your throttle you still need to set the throw and mechanical setup to work correctly.

Cheers

Not to sound like a broken record, but these work great. http://www.shopatron.com/product/par...161.5165.0.0.0

Actually I didn't even have room for the soulder clevis. I had to use two screw type connectors.....