tiger 60 kit, instructions call for the servo to mount with the entire control horn exposed as in the 1st pic.
For cosmetic reasons only, I would like to put the servos in a servo box (I already have the 2 servo boxes) that allows me to turn it on its side. (2nd pic)
I will make a panel that covers the servo box. only the control arm will stick out of the wing.

Is there a downside to mounting the servo this way? There is the extra weight of the servo boxes and extra 4 mounting screws...
Any tourqe would me in a different direction than the original plan...

Not an important mod but I prefer the look of just the servo arm sticking out of the wing as opposed to the whole top of the servo sticking out...


Any other issues?


Thanks

Steve

There is no reason at all why you can't mount them the way you want to. The little bit of weight from the extra wood isn't going to be enough to worry about.

Ken

No problem at all. In fact most AFRs do it that way now.

The easiest way to do it is to sheet an area between two ribs (Instead of using cap strips) Cut out a hole for the hatch, but make the hatch itself out of 3/23" ply. Then add a plywood strip to each side of the hole (On the inside) to screw the hatch to.

Epoxy two hardwood blocks to the hatch to mount the servo to and cut a slot in the hatch for the servo arm

make sure you cut the slot large enough so the arm AND the clevis can move freely.

The only issue here is that you may not get full deflection using this method as compared with the same servo arm in the one that is fully exposed. I've done both methods and, as both RCKen and Minnflyer said, I have had no problems at all with this. Just be mindful of this possibility. The servo arm could bind up with the slot in your wing. Being careful in your setup and allowing for full movement of the servo arm will give you what you want.

Center the servo arm carefully before making the connection then make sure that your stick deflection does not cause the servo arm to bind with the wing surface. If it does, then make the necessary adjustments (end points for instance).

CGr.

Or cut a bigger slot

Or use longer servo arms.

Ken

Or both.

I had planned on mounting the servo to the wing with a hatch to cover it. Your pic show the servo mounted to the actual hatch.
My idea attaches the ply servo mount to the wing spar and rib making it more secure??? mounting the servo to the hatch is easier but the hatch will only tie into wing sheeting or ribs. (not as solid as the spar) ??? how is it usually done on the ARFS? not sure how strong this has to be?

Thanks

Steve

It will be plenty strong.

If you want, you can plan it out so that the plywood doublers (Under the sheeting) are also glued to the spar and one rib.

Popriv,
Yes, the hatch method of servo mounting is used in a lot of ARF's, but there are plenty of kits that use that method as well. Sig Hog Bipe is the one that jumps out in my mind immediately, but if I think about it a bit I could list more of them. This method of mouting the servo is more than enough to hold the servo secure. If you would like to make it a bit more secure you can have the hatch screw into the spar and the trailing edge of the wing, which will give it a bit more strength than screwing it into the rib mounts.

Ken

The way Minnflyer described is the standard way of mounting covered wing servos for many years.

Most of the other ways are just extra work

With the servo mounted to the hatch as Minnflyer showed, makes things a bit easier. It was particularly nice because you can remove everything with the four screws (one on each corner) to work on the linkage if necessary. Then you can make the adjustments to prevent binds without having to take everything apart to get at the servos. You can do it with everything in your hand before you actually mount the cover with the servo in the wing. Makes things a tad bit easier.

CGr.

Sounds good.
Less work.
I'll mount to the hatch and not even use the servo boxes..

Thanks

Steve

Nice info, albeit a tad late for me. My 4*40 rebuild has the servos upright and exposed in the bottom of the wing. Next time I may try having just the servo arm sticking out. That seems pretty slick for not too much more work.

Thanks folks,

Jack