Control Throws
#5
Yep. Set the plane on the floor and hold a yardstick up close to the control surface.
I also came up with holding a flashlight a few feet behind the model facing a wall to judge whether the wing and horizontal stabilizer were parallel, or at least even.
I also came up with holding a flashlight a few feet behind the model facing a wall to judge whether the wing and horizontal stabilizer were parallel, or at least even.
#7
The recommended throws are just beginning points. They all need a little "adjustment" to your preferences, model weight, center of gravity, etc., etc. But it's seldom wrong to use the designer's recommended settings as a starting point.
The "official" throw/deflection meters can be a big help for sure (especially when setting up dual elevators on seperate servos) but even then not really necessary. I still lay a #2 pencil on the stab/elevator to set the zero point. Pretty low tech.
The "official" throw/deflection meters can be a big help for sure (especially when setting up dual elevators on seperate servos) but even then not really necessary. I still lay a #2 pencil on the stab/elevator to set the zero point. Pretty low tech.
#8
Senior Member
My Feedback: (4)
ORIGINAL: ImHooked
Minn,,,,thats exactly what i have done up to this point! LOL! I guess if it works,,,,,why change! I love your exact science to this sport! Thanks!
Minn,,,,thats exactly what i have done up to this point! LOL! I guess if it works,,,,,why change! I love your exact science to this sport! Thanks!
I'm somewhere in between
#9

My Feedback: (1)
No matter what method you use, you probably should start with the minimal throws (even using Minn's TLAR method, I call it the SWAG.. Silly Wild Ass Guess
) and but sort of measuring it to make sure you don't put to much or to little in for your maiden. After that, it comes down to adjusting according to your flying style and flying needs.
A fellow RCU'er sent me a pair of lasers that operate off of a standard RX 4.8 volt pack. They can be focused to a fine point that is aimed at a ruler very similar to Charlie's pencil method, but everyone loves a LASER, especially the cat!! THis gives a reference amount that the surface moves. Because the ruler is a bit further away from the surface, direct measurement is not directly possible, but is easy to figure out, but it will give you an indication of the up and down are the same. I use it mainly because I have it, but it is a bit of a pain in the butt. So, I refer back to my SWAG method and fly. If I need more, I add it. If I need less, I remove it. No big deal.
But, I'm sure some of the "pattern" folks will have something to say about that.
CGr.
) and but sort of measuring it to make sure you don't put to much or to little in for your maiden. After that, it comes down to adjusting according to your flying style and flying needs.A fellow RCU'er sent me a pair of lasers that operate off of a standard RX 4.8 volt pack. They can be focused to a fine point that is aimed at a ruler very similar to Charlie's pencil method, but everyone loves a LASER, especially the cat!! THis gives a reference amount that the surface moves. Because the ruler is a bit further away from the surface, direct measurement is not directly possible, but is easy to figure out, but it will give you an indication of the up and down are the same. I use it mainly because I have it, but it is a bit of a pain in the butt. So, I refer back to my SWAG method and fly. If I need more, I add it. If I need less, I remove it. No big deal.
But, I'm sure some of the "pattern" folks will have something to say about that.
CGr.
#10
Senior Member
You have gotten all the info you need on how to set the throws. If you have dual rates on your radio use them to modify throw in the air. It requires flight adjustments to get it as you like.



