hello , is there any way to set the incidence on a pete and poke without buying one of those meters, book says it should read 1 degree positive. thanks lee i would hate to buy one and only use it once. this is my first build

I am sure there are ways of doing it with math and levels and things as such, however the only way of making sure that it is correct is to use a meter. Maybe you could get with your local club and see if you can borrow one. I would loan you mine if you were in the area. As a side note, most all of the Great Planes kits are designed to have all the incidence built in that the plane might need so if you built it as per plans you should be close. Good Luck, Dave

thanks dave , my great plane plans says they strongly suggest that you check it. maybe my local hobby shop will let me use one he builds alot of planes. lee

You are correct, it is not an often used tool, however they are nice to have when needed. Might be something for a Birthday wish list. Good Luck, once again, Dave

You must also understand that with the proper meter you can use it for many more things. You can use it to check engine thrust angles and control surface deflection on the rudder, elevator(s) and ailerons, which is really helpful when setting up dual servos on seperate control surfaces such as ailerons and elevator. I use mine on every plane I assemble or build, whether it be an ARF or kit. It makes for a better flying plane when everything is setup just right.
I use the Hanger9 Incidence meter. [link]http://www.hangar-9.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=HAN192[/link]

It's basic math, but that is only necessary if you are designing from scratch and have a force arrangement in mind.

You do still have the plans for the airplane? It's so easy. Just draw a couple of lines on the plans and measure the distance. Generally plans are drawn with the zero line aligned with the edge of the plans, like a boarder drawn around the plans. If it's there fine, if not, then you may want to draw a line with the horizontal stab if that is zero. Then measure the distance from the leading edge of the wing and also the trailing edge.

Now block up the model until the tail is the same distance from a table, front to back. Then just measure the wing distance, and the difference should be the same as on the plans.

But really, with your computer you can look up the trigonometry needed, and use the scientific calculator on your computer to do the calculation.

The best way to check it without buying an incidence meter is to do what the guys in my club do... Borrow mine

No, you can't borrow mine, but chances are SOMEONE in your club will let you borrow theirs.

Would this work???

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=34214

Rich

That will work, but you need to make the bracket to hold it accurately to the centerline of the wing

Sure, if you are setting up the driveline in you hotrod. I don't see why not. It is basically the same principle, you use it for setting up the driveline in a vehicle to make sure everything is at the proper angles to each other just as you do with the surfaces of a plane. I don't know of any metal surface it would stick to on an rc plane but it will let you know the differance in degrees of the two wings. I cannot testify to the accuracy that it will give you on a plane.

Just borrow a meter from a club member, sort of like pushing the easy button. I borrowed one from the fellow that taught me how to use them my first time. Good deal, free lessons and free loan of a meter. Then I bought a cheap laser type from Tower and used it for a few years then broke down and bought a couple of the Dubro meters. I use mine a lot depending on how many planes I build a year so having good meters makes my life a lot easier. I really like easy!!

Great Planes sells a model kit with a "critical" wing incidence [like it's some sort of a rocket ship] and they also sell incidence meters, too?

Save the money and use an old playing card for a shim if you don't like the way the plane handles.

You could add half a deck of playing cards and most of the meters would be clueless. They are almost as worthless as all the balancing meters.

CP, I bet you could write a book on the art of tramming. But in this ARF infested world, it is a lost art.

Or you could build your own out of lite ply and an old protractor. In the pic, the part on the right, slides to accommodate different size wings.

[img] [/img]


Lm

HP, you know the guys who think if they buy the $2000 set of clubs or $500 cue stick, it'll improve their game

Having good reference points and rulers that you can take "square readings" with is all you need. My Robart meter didn't work last time I got it out, so I tossed it. The most use I ever got out of it was to check the accuracy of a Goldberg Ultimate Bipe...but I still double checked the readings with a ruler off the work table.

Don't over-think this. The Pete-n-Poke is a flat bottomed airfoil. Press a yardstick up under the wing and see where the other end lays in relation to the horizontal stab. Zero incedence would be parallel. Whatever the distance between wing and stab is would be the radius. One degree change would be (2 * radius)/360, so adjust the wing so it ends up by that measurement lower (with the model upright.

Just buy a Robarts Incindence meter. $40 Bucks. You can do 5 checks with this, engine thrust etc. A good tool to use. Check it out.

Charlie,

I believe the yard stick method would result in an incorrect calculation. Because the incidence is calculated using the center of the leading edge and the center of the trailing edge and not the bottom edge of the airfoil.

When I built my "Pete 'n Poke" I checked the incidence with a meter and it was 1 degree positive. I also, removed the wing and with the stab level (0 degrees), placed a level on the top of both wing struts (front to back) and the struts were also level. The 1 degree incidence with the wing attached was a result of the center of the leading edge was 1 degree positive with respect to the bottom of the wing.

Therefore if my crude calculations are valid the "Poke's" incidence could be measured with a simple bubble level. This method is limited to the "Poke" and assumes my build was accurate as designed.

I would appreciate any comments on this unorthodox calculation.


DaveB

Is this the only airplane that you will ever own? If it is, then borrow one. If you plan to stay with the hobby, then by all means buy or make one. You can get close with a carpenters level as well.

Bill, Waco Brother #1

thanks for all the info might try the level on this one not sure if i will build another plane or not depends on if i destroy this one on its first flight. Lee

If you are new at flying then I would suggest that you hook up with an instructor or it will be your first and last flight. Your plane is a nice flyer so do it right and get some help and you will enjoy it for a long time. just my 2c

From what I see in your photo you did a very good job of building too, very nice looking frame up!!

thank you my youngest son (28) is a very good flyer hes the one who got me stated in this, he buddy corded me on second plane and he is going to test fly this one then buddy cord me. i have a pz bl cub i learned to fly by myself and a pz trojan he is still buddy coeding me on .i hope this plane handles like the cub. Lee

reelay:

Could you tell me how long the chord of the wing is exactly?

How will you measure the 3 degrees right thrust and 3 degrees down thrust of the engine?

Also check this errata note:

http://www.greatplanes.com/techsuppo...a0493tech.html

cord is 13 3/4 right thrust and down thrust are built in in the plans and my cut out for the pilot is centered