What is the most rugged and strong linkage to use with a servo that controls the nose wheel and rudder? I didn't get a set of plans with my partially built .40 type trainer and I'm trying to take off on somewhat ruff turf. I need a linkage to my nose wheel that can handle some pounding. A diagram with photo's would be appreciated. The company that made the kit, CraftAir, is out of business. I've had to go back to the drawing board twice already because of this. Thanks.

I had success just using the 2-56 size control wire threaded on one end that you buy at the hobby shop.

It had to be a straight shot

Here's a manual for another plane

The controls start about page 45

http://manuals.hobbico.com/gpm/gpma0...anual-v1_2.pdf

Here's some more instructions

http://www.sigmfg.com/cgi-bin/dpsmar...L+Sig+xnzg3631

Good stuff. Thanks. I saved both for referance but which would you prefer for the nose wheel. Cable through a tube, plastic through a tube or a metal rod through a tube? It's got to bend between the servo and the nose wheel arm and take some ruff turf.

Cable would probably be better if you have bends but you have to firmly support the outer jacket

Metal rod through the tube. It may take a shallow "z" bend in the rod to line up with the control arm.
Don't forget to grind the small flat spot in the nose gear shaft so the steering arm won't shift position.

Protect your servo gear train.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_83...tm.htm#8395012

Good point! I didn't think of that. Will do.

Here is my toughest nose gear linkage. It is on my SPAD Swept-Wing Canard. I love landings and probably do 10 of them every flight. The front of the Canard sometimes slams down very hard. The arm at the front gear also kept breaking on me so I made an arm from a Kitchen cutting board. My arm is jammed into the spring coil of the front gear. Has never broken. The control rod is made of 1/16 diameter music wire and has a coils spring built into it. I always also use a nylon clevis as double insurance for the servo. The rod length almost never requires adjustment.

Sorry I can't get a drawing to upload (wrong format) so I'll explain. I Slap one of them DooHickies into the servo arm that you put a wire thru and has a lock nut on. Leave the lock nut off and let the wire slide. On each side of said servo arm/doo hickie put a spring and back it up with a collarlocked down on the wire. the springs strength is based on usage heavier (ink pen) for landing gear. Lighter for using as a throttle side to prevent servo stall when using a non comp radio and get tired of jacking around with the fine tuning

I always use one of dem do hicky (DuBro E/Z connector) things on one end or the other of my nose wheel linkage for final adjustment

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXD925&P=7

I have never suffered servo damage from a nose wheel

The only nose-wheel I have currently is on my Contender 60 and it's a beefy one. The original set-up didn't have the "oomph" for our rough grass field, heavy 4-stroke engine I added and my heavy building techniques. I swapped out a Fults double strut, added a DuBro "Servo Saver" and it has proved to be rugged - as has the Contender airframe.

Grass field with their clumps and holes are rough on nose wheels

DuBro "Servo Saver" Cool! Didn't know about that.

Hi The Gopher
I too could not up load my photo because it was in a format this system could not handle. I then opened the photo in IrfanView (it is a FREE download) and saved it in JPEG. Then it uploaded OK.

Villa,

Congratulations, you have recreated the nose gear design of Lou Andrews with the through the coil steering arm. He did it around 1967, and like you say, it never slips or fails. If only DuBro or someone else produced it now.

Something else to think about for your nose wheel is putting the biggest wheel you can find on it. The bigger the wheel, the easier it's going to roll over the clumps and holes instead of getting stuck in them. Weight's a factor, so one of those foam wheels they often put in the ARF's would be good.

Hi HighPlains
After I did mine someone told me there was one at Tower Hobbies. Sure enough I found it there and ordered one or two. The arm bolts thru the spring coil and uses rubber washers for further vibration isolation. I was very impressed with it but have not yet put it on a plane. It may be a DuBro but I am not certain. I think that steering arm will outlast most models. I have never seen anyone use one. Are you familiar with it?

Villa,

I did not know of this part, it must be pretty new. And it's Du-Bro to boot.

What shall I wish for next?

Thanks for the tip.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXD848&P=7

Thanks to you all for the great tips. I learned a lot from this post.

This works for me ! Tower has them for $5.59. Part # LXFV50
Ugo

HaHa, ask and you shall recieve!

Here's a direct click-on link to Ugo's recommended nose gear

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...FV50&search=Go