hey guys how dos the stregth of wood glue rate compared to med ca ?

from my recent tests, the wood around the joint will break before the glue joint for either glue.

I like the time titebond II gives me for positioning. I use CA if I know I can get it in position right away..

I had never been bothered by the CA fumes but lately I've been noticing it more!


Pop

Kenny
Try the gorilla wood glue (not the foaming kind) looks like titebond. Grabs fast, drys more clear and very strong. I can't comment on CA as I am very allergic to it.

the fumes dont seem to bother me all that much the cost and the 2 hour ride to get some is the worst and the lhs has run out of it and has taken him a while to restock it lol just when i was on a roll with my ss 40 lol

yeah i pick some up from the local walmart lastnight but my father inlaw who has done this hobby 17 years ago was worried by the weight lol but i think the supertiger g51 will be just fine on this bird

Kenny
You are supposed to take the glue out of the bottle, not put the bottle on the plane. How much glue are you going to use. I can't imagine how many scratch built planes I could build on one 8oz bottle. I don't think the weight will affect any at all.

lol yeah i didnt feel the weight of the glue would be all that but i am sure you know how father inlaws can be there ALWAYS right LOL

I purchased some Gorilla Wood Glue a while back because my Elmer's Carpenter glue was a few years old. Truth is I've only glued the occasional piece with it, never a whole plane. Ever since Ambroid went away I've relied on CA and become spoiled by how I can fit everything up, pin or clamp down and once setup...precisely place drops on the joints and let them wick in. Sometimes I when I place a drop on one side of the joint I can see the CA appear on the other side before it absorbs in and confirms the whole joining surfaces are getting adhesive.

And after reading numerous posts it is still unclear to me if the folks buillding exclusively with wood glues (other than epoxy points) are fully coating the surfaces to be joined before setting the pieces or if some actually use it in the same manner as CA ie. clamping and pinning everything down and then running a bead around the edges with a syringe or small brush?

Whenever I have done it with wood glues the pieces like to slide around and can be hard to setup before pinning. By setting up dry they tend to sit still and let me get everything just so before I "weld'm" in with the CA.

So; would you wood glue users clarify this? I have the wood glue and a couple of syringes and just may build the next one without CA but would appreciate knowing up front what to expect or atleast what works for you.

Regards,

Clay

I don't know about that. I am a father-in-law and it seems I am never right. The Gorilla glue is really good stuff. Especially for those of us that can't use CA

Depending on the location I sometimes lightly "butter" the part being installed BEFORE placing it but pinning and then glueing is also OK. I have also been known to use a small CA tack and then wood glue the majority of a seam. No hard and fast rules except to glue the entire seam with something. Epoxy = heavy, so use only where needed.

I have done it both ways. I think that the 'right' way is to pin down the main spar and trailing edge of a wing, dry fit all of the ribs, and then pick them up one at a time, dab the glue into the notch, and pin them down. This get's the most glue into each joint.

I have also framed up a wing like I would if I were building with CA, and then brushed yellow glue onto each joint. They way I do it is I have a small medicine cup that I squirt some yellow glue into, and a cup of water that I use to soak the brush. I pull the brush out of the water and dab it on a rag. It's not soaking wet, but it's not dry either. Then, when I dip the brush into the glue cup, it tends to thin the glue just a bit. I brush the glue onto both sides of the joint, and it does seem to wick into the joint pretty well.

Both ways seem to produce strong joints. For thicker, structural members, I always brush glue onto both surfaces to be joined and then fit them together.

bruce thanks for the tip was wondering about the way to apply wood glue

Ambroid glues are still around. Very good glue.
http://www.ambroid.com/Ambroid.html
http://www.happyhobby.com/hobb_html/ambroid.htm
http://www.greathobbies.com/search/r...=AMB&srchcat=G
http://www.hobbymasters.com/browsepr...esin-Glue.html

Interesting. Not long ago I found some online but only the large containers and with minimum order requirements. So I bought some UHU from Saunders which is much the same. But so far all I've used is CA and epoxies.

I just want to build a plane with the wood glue for the experience of it...if I can remain patient enough.

Thanks for the replie yall!

Clay

Wood glue works great on wood's that are porous like soft, medium, most speckle-grain balsa, and even some of the softer 3-ply type plywood's.

CA works great as well, but its less user friendly and costs more.

The point of importance, I believe, is that sometimes which glue to use is determined by the type of wood to be joined, and/or by the particular application . Hope this helps

for the comparison between wood glue like titebond and elamrs to CA i find the wood glue is much better, stronger and Less brittle.

yes its harder to sand then thin CA but easier to sand then med CA.

as said there are no harmful fumes and my build with it is actually going faster then if i used CA...

the hobby syringe is very helpful if you clean it through after every gluing session and keep the syringe in a cup of water between refiles.

i also pump water into the syringe through the nozzle to keep the nozzle clean.

I also asked these questions in this thread:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_81...tm.htm#8104967

of course it requires practice and dry runs as well as many Q-tips and paper towels...

best of luck
Alex

Hello.

Please take a look on this post:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8485719
You'll need different kind of glue on a plane

CA glue becomes very hard when it is cured.

Alex,

I'd already read that thread and it was the one that prompted me to ask whether or not folks painted the surfaces with glue before assembly or if they assembled dry and then applied the glue and let it wick in just as you would CA. Minnflyers excellent photo peaked my interest since that would make using wood glue much more appealing to me.

My first models as a kid were assemble with plain 'ol Elmers white glue and sometimes the pieces tended to walk around on you. The few times I've used it as an adult they still do albeit I just used it when it seemed like a better choice at the moment. I know its much slower to dry but I just have a difficult time seeing it wick inbetween tight fitting pieces in the manner CA can.

I know I can test it for myself but when someone as knowledgeable as Minnflyer posts such an explicit pic; why bother?

Regards,

Clay

Clay,
there is elmars white glue for paper which i dont use and there are wood glues.
i like titebond 2 because of availability and price near me, titebond 3 is for industrial use same strength very hard to sand tried that.

Doesn’t get into tight places? Well I push in with Q-tips, and now building my third kit with it and I see that you really don’t need that much.

The titebond 2 is hardening into orange color and if you put too much, it becomes red, I don’t get into that anymore.

As per weight, after it hardened its loosing about 55% of its weight and volume.

I’m spreading the glue with a Q-tip around the joint and its understanding by its self where it needs to hold, not doing the glue chamfer on the joint anymore….

As per strength, if you ar familiar with the 4*60 kit there is that place under the canopy where the top cover sheet is just sitting on the corner, I used wood glue there and then decided to cut it off with a razor blade, it was very hard despite me feeling the glue had nothing to hold on to…

Alex

that is the reason I changed to Gorilla Wood Glue. Reading from the bottle. Strong, fast setting with short clamp time. Dries natural colorNo dyesno foam. Indoor/outdoor use, type II water resistant. I only use this and epoxy where epoxy should be use. can't use CA anymore. Must have saturated my system with it.

Alex,

The Elmer's school glue when I was a kid was pretty good stuff. The models were small rubber-band balsa stick/tissue covered Piper Cubs. The Elmer's I've kept around for 10 years or so is the Carpenter's Glue. Its yellowish and only used last year a few times on a few pieces here-n-there on an .049 model I built. It seemed ok but I wound up using CA mostly.

CA doesn't bother me much unless I get my face right into it. But as a smoker it doesn't take much to make me cough and besides, I move slower now and the waiting on glue to dry doesn't bug me quite as much as it used to.

I've been using the CA for balsa-to-balsa joints and Epoxy for anything-to-plywood joints. I'm going to finish the ARF I'm working on eventually and want to build a kit next (its in the closet already). For the heck of it I may use the UHU stuff or I may use the Gorilla Wood Glue, just to see.

The mental image I have of using a small paintbrush, a small cup of water and another with a dab of glue on it (I'll probably use a patch of wax paper) just seems sorta "'ol timey" and I may do it just because that now appeals to me.

Thanks for all the tips on this thread too!

Clay

I used titebond II on portions of my foam jet, and it seemed to hold as well as the epoxy.

I like Devcon 5 and 30 minute epoxy in the twin tubes. Mixing is always correct. I have used wood glue a few times, but not exclusively. Might have to try the Gorilla Wood glue to see how it works out.

I state few things as absolute fact. I will, however say that no single type of glue is ideal for every use on a model airplane.
(This opinion is mine, and anyone who wishes to be wrong is free to disagree)

jess