A few tips for the beginners from a fellow beginner.
#26
Senior Member
My Feedback: (4)
The Tiger is my favorite trainer. the first time I flew one, i ran right out and bought one for my son (Who was learning at the time)
Don't let that box of sticks worry you. That often happens to first-time kit builders - just remember: you won't be working with all of those sticks, you'll be working with one or two of them (Plus a few die-cut parts) per step - And you'll only be doing ONE step at a time.
One other piece of advice... Goldberg kits are built with a "Box Fuselage" type of construction. When you pop the fuse parts out, they may be warped a bit - Don't worry about it.
The fit together with tabs and slots and are held together with rubber bands - THEN they are straightened. Once they are straight and square you start glueing them. The one area to be very careful with is the rear of the fuse where the stab saddle goes. Make sure the bottom is flat against the table and the sides are straight up and down before glueing.
And just tack-glue several strategic areas at first (While it is still held with the rubber bands) once it all looks good, straight and square, THEN you can go over all of the joints with a good bead of glue.
Don't let that box of sticks worry you. That often happens to first-time kit builders - just remember: you won't be working with all of those sticks, you'll be working with one or two of them (Plus a few die-cut parts) per step - And you'll only be doing ONE step at a time.
One other piece of advice... Goldberg kits are built with a "Box Fuselage" type of construction. When you pop the fuse parts out, they may be warped a bit - Don't worry about it.
The fit together with tabs and slots and are held together with rubber bands - THEN they are straightened. Once they are straight and square you start glueing them. The one area to be very careful with is the rear of the fuse where the stab saddle goes. Make sure the bottom is flat against the table and the sides are straight up and down before glueing.
And just tack-glue several strategic areas at first (While it is still held with the rubber bands) once it all looks good, straight and square, THEN you can go over all of the joints with a good bead of glue.
#27
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Joined: Jan 2009
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From: Locust Grove, OK
Yeah I received my kit, inspected everything there was no damage. After reading the manual a few times it isn't going to be near the ordeal I thought it would be.
I ordered a few extra pieces of balsa and ply just in case there was a splintered brace or something. I ended up making a few things to practice with the iron on. I am really going like covering with ultra, and for now I am not going to like monokote it is much less forgiving you can shrink a mistake right out of the ultra and have a nice covering very easily.
I ordered a few extra pieces of balsa and ply just in case there was a splintered brace or something. I ended up making a few things to practice with the iron on. I am really going like covering with ultra, and for now I am not going to like monokote it is much less forgiving you can shrink a mistake right out of the ultra and have a nice covering very easily.



