Will I get away with this ?
#1
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From: LondonSussex, UNITED KINGDOM
Hi
The holes for the control horns have been pre-drilled in the stabs but the clevis holes in them are not in line with the hinge gaps. I'd normally have them bang on.
I'm inclined to leave the horns where they are instead of filling in the holes and moving them by such a small amount. What does anyone reckon ? Will I still get smooth enough linear movement ?
There is a single elevator servo driving both sides and one horn is maybe a mm in front of the other one. Is this ok ? I'm not going to have rear ailerons am I ?
Also, the rudder horn restricts rudder movement. As I'm unlikely to use the nearest hole to the rudder I could just cut the horn back around there to allow more movement.
The pictures are not sharp because I went in close to show the specifics but they should be good enough for the job.
Thanks
The holes for the control horns have been pre-drilled in the stabs but the clevis holes in them are not in line with the hinge gaps. I'd normally have them bang on.
I'm inclined to leave the horns where they are instead of filling in the holes and moving them by such a small amount. What does anyone reckon ? Will I still get smooth enough linear movement ?
There is a single elevator servo driving both sides and one horn is maybe a mm in front of the other one. Is this ok ? I'm not going to have rear ailerons am I ?

Also, the rudder horn restricts rudder movement. As I'm unlikely to use the nearest hole to the rudder I could just cut the horn back around there to allow more movement.
The pictures are not sharp because I went in close to show the specifics but they should be good enough for the job.
Thanks
#2

My Feedback: (8)
If you are using one servo for elevators and the horns are not aligned with each other, your plane will not pull straight.
If it were me, after dealing with a few planes with similar issues, I would plug the holes and either move the horns or use different hardware (thus with different mounting patterns) altogether.
Often, the bottom edge of the rudder horn needs to be trimmed to allow for full rudder deflection, or it may contact the side of the fuse. Is that the case with yours?
If it were me, after dealing with a few planes with similar issues, I would plug the holes and either move the horns or use different hardware (thus with different mounting patterns) altogether.
Often, the bottom edge of the rudder horn needs to be trimmed to allow for full rudder deflection, or it may contact the side of the fuse. Is that the case with yours?
#3
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My Feedback: (4)
I would be more concerned that the elevator horns are not equal than the fact that they are not on the hinge line (BTW, they're close enough)
Hook up the servos and see IF they move differently, and if so, by how much. If the difference is slight, you'll probably never notice it in the air.
And yes, you can trim the rudder horn to allow more movement.
Hook up the servos and see IF they move differently, and if so, by how much. If the difference is slight, you'll probably never notice it in the air.
And yes, you can trim the rudder horn to allow more movement.
#5
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From: LondonSussex, UNITED KINGDOM
ORIGINAL: gaRCfield
If you are using one servo for elevators and the horns are not aligned with each other, your plane will not pull straight.
If it were me, after dealing with a few planes with similar issues, I would plug the holes and either move the horns or use different hardware (thus with different mounting patterns) altogether.
Often, the bottom edge of the rudder horn needs to be trimmed to allow for full rudder deflection, or it may contact the side of the fuse. Is that the case with yours?
If you are using one servo for elevators and the horns are not aligned with each other, your plane will not pull straight.
If it were me, after dealing with a few planes with similar issues, I would plug the holes and either move the horns or use different hardware (thus with different mounting patterns) altogether.
Often, the bottom edge of the rudder horn needs to be trimmed to allow for full rudder deflection, or it may contact the side of the fuse. Is that the case with yours?
Yes, the rudder horn touches the fuse so I'll just trim it thanks.
Thanks
#6
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From: LondonSussex, UNITED KINGDOM
ORIGINAL: vmsguy
Wow.. there's a noticable hinge gap there...
Wow.. there's a noticable hinge gap there...
#9
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From: Woodville, WI
ORIGINAL: carrellh
You can always seal the gap with tape or covering.
You can always seal the gap with tape or covering.
That's what I was thinking.. It's the simplest/easiest solution...
#10
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From: LondonSussex, UNITED KINGDOM
ORIGINAL: vmsguy
That's what I was thinking.. It's the simplest/easiest solution...
ORIGINAL: carrellh
You can always seal the gap with tape or covering.
You can always seal the gap with tape or covering.
That's what I was thinking.. It's the simplest/easiest solution...
Although the vertical stab is slid forward as far as it will go in the slot, the trailing edge of it sticks out past the end of the fuselage. So, while the gap looks ok between the stab and the rudder, the one between the fuselage and the rudder is bigger.Does sealing make a worthwhile difference in a Cub ? I thought that was more for 3D types and the like.



