Hobbycity Super Simple ESC
03-20-2009, 02:09 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Hobbycity Super Simple ESC
I just wanted to put a thread out here regarding some info I have collected regarding HC's Super Simple lineup of ESC. Note: this is regarding the Card-Programmable ESC such as this... [link=http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=6548&Product_Name=SuperSimple_20A_ESC_(card_programmabl e)]Super Simple Card-Programmable 20 ESC[/link]
I bought one last month and have been working on putting it into a Simple Stick ARF that I bought from Hobby People. The Motor is a [link=http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=7705&Product_Name=TGY_AerodriveXp_SK_Series_28-26_1000Kv_/_240W]Turnigy SK 2826-1000[/link] and the Battery is a [link=http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=7636]Zippy Flightmax 2200 mah 25 C 11.1V lipo[/link]. I got the motor mounted and the connectors soldered on properly and made up my own $3 watt meter from a Harbor Freight DVM and a thread at RCGroups
[link=http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=949923]$3 Watt meter[/link]
This ESC is made by Hobbywing, not the Suppo ESC that is labeled as the regular ESC (not programmable by card). Not only that but the programming instructions are much different. The regular only has three programming opptions, where as the CP ESC has 7. The instructions are here... [link=http://site.exceedrc.com/resource/product/volcano_esc_manual.pdf]ExceedRC volcano and Hobbywing[/link].
Knowing this helped me a lot, but I still had problems that after about 20 seconds or so the motor would slow down from WOT to about half power. I originally thought it was because the ESC had been programmed to softly cut-off the motor when it sensed the battery was going low, but I think it actually had to do with the timing of the ESC. I set the timing to high, because the motor is a 14 pole. You can find this by disconnecting the motor and the ESC and shorting two of the windings of the motor together and rotate the motor. count the detents in the rotation and that will be the number of poles. They recommend Low for 2-4 poles, medium for 6 and higher, and High for higher speed motors. I set mine to High and it ran indefinately at WOT. This seems to be the trick though. I will keep testing the setup and report any findings back.
Good Luck,
Curtis
P.S. I posted this in the beginners forum because of the traffic here, hopefully it will help someone.
I bought one last month and have been working on putting it into a Simple Stick ARF that I bought from Hobby People. The Motor is a [link=http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=7705&Product_Name=TGY_AerodriveXp_SK_Series_28-26_1000Kv_/_240W]Turnigy SK 2826-1000[/link] and the Battery is a [link=http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=7636]Zippy Flightmax 2200 mah 25 C 11.1V lipo[/link]. I got the motor mounted and the connectors soldered on properly and made up my own $3 watt meter from a Harbor Freight DVM and a thread at RCGroups
[link=http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=949923]$3 Watt meter[/link]
This ESC is made by Hobbywing, not the Suppo ESC that is labeled as the regular ESC (not programmable by card). Not only that but the programming instructions are much different. The regular only has three programming opptions, where as the CP ESC has 7. The instructions are here... [link=http://site.exceedrc.com/resource/product/volcano_esc_manual.pdf]ExceedRC volcano and Hobbywing[/link].
Knowing this helped me a lot, but I still had problems that after about 20 seconds or so the motor would slow down from WOT to about half power. I originally thought it was because the ESC had been programmed to softly cut-off the motor when it sensed the battery was going low, but I think it actually had to do with the timing of the ESC. I set the timing to high, because the motor is a 14 pole. You can find this by disconnecting the motor and the ESC and shorting two of the windings of the motor together and rotate the motor. count the detents in the rotation and that will be the number of poles. They recommend Low for 2-4 poles, medium for 6 and higher, and High for higher speed motors. I set mine to High and it ran indefinately at WOT. This seems to be the trick though. I will keep testing the setup and report any findings back.
Good Luck,
Curtis
P.S. I posted this in the beginners forum because of the traffic here, hopefully it will help someone.
03-20-2009, 06:23 PM
#2
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RE: Hobbycity Super Simple ESC
For one thing you are using a 20amp ESC on a motor that requires a MINIMUM of 25amps. You need more amps than that on the ESC, preferrably 30amps or more. If you continue with this setup chances are very good you will overheat the motor, ESC or both. It is always best to go over the recommended amps on the ESC compared to going under the recommended as you are.
04-11-2009, 10:28 AM
#3
RE: Hobbycity Super Simple ESC
ORIGINAL: beau0090_99
You can find this by disconnecting the motor and the ESC and shorting two of the windings of the motor together and rotate the motor. count the detents in the rotation and that will be the number of poles.
You can find this by disconnecting the motor and the ESC and shorting two of the windings of the motor together and rotate the motor. count the detents in the rotation and that will be the number of poles.
04-11-2009, 01:18 PM
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RE: Hobbycity Super Simple ESC
ORIGINAL: shd3920
For one thing you are using a 20amp ESC on a motor that requires a MINIMUM of 25amps. You need more amps than that on the ESC, preferrably 30amps or more. If you continue with this setup chances are very good you will overheat the motor, ESC or both. It is always best to go over the recommended amps on the ESC compared to going under the recommended as you are.
For one thing you are using a 20amp ESC on a motor that requires a MINIMUM of 25amps. You need more amps than that on the ESC, preferrably 30amps or more. If you continue with this setup chances are very good you will overheat the motor, ESC or both. It is always best to go over the recommended amps on the ESC compared to going under the recommended as you are.
25A is the MAXIMUM the motor can sustain. It's a small motor.
If you calculate the actual maximum draw given the stated max watts you get about 21amps.
That 20A ESC would only see 21A for brief periods ( full throttle nose up ) and since it's burst mode is well over that, the ESC he selected is fine.
04-11-2009, 05:20 PM
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
RE: Hobbycity Super Simple ESC
Thanks Opjose,
I chose not to respond at first. I've talked to a few guys over at RCGroups and they have told me to beware of the Turnigys and how they have spec'd their motors. Their is no listing of peak current, but I'll give them the benefit and say that if it is rated at 245W at 14.8 (It is 2-4 cell rated), I figure it would be good for about 16 Amps. The most important thing is that I have it propped to only draw about 15A peak on the tallest prop and currently only about 13A with the 9x6 APC E, so I am not too worried.
It isn't the current draw or the sizing that I am concerned about, it was findong out how to program the thing.
VF84Sluggo - Yeah, you are moving the magnets by the coils and inducing a current. When you short any two leads, or all three if you want, the current actually flows, and will produce an increasing cogging effect. This is called dynamic braking and is used in industrial applications with permanent magnet motors like these.
Regards,
Curtis
I chose not to respond at first. I've talked to a few guys over at RCGroups and they have told me to beware of the Turnigys and how they have spec'd their motors. Their is no listing of peak current, but I'll give them the benefit and say that if it is rated at 245W at 14.8 (It is 2-4 cell rated), I figure it would be good for about 16 Amps. The most important thing is that I have it propped to only draw about 15A peak on the tallest prop and currently only about 13A with the 9x6 APC E, so I am not too worried.
It isn't the current draw or the sizing that I am concerned about, it was findong out how to program the thing.
VF84Sluggo - Yeah, you are moving the magnets by the coils and inducing a current. When you short any two leads, or all three if you want, the current actually flows, and will produce an increasing cogging effect. This is called dynamic braking and is used in industrial applications with permanent magnet motors like these.
Regards,
Curtis
