Using titebond how long until you can handle wood parts and how long to total cure.

A lot depends on how much you used. A thin coat will dry within 30 minutes or so, a glob can last for days.

Usually you can handle the parts carefully within about a half hour, but 4 to 8 hours for full cure.

Sounds good I want to use this instead of the recommended thick CA to build my field box http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXL416&P=7 just can’t seem to get large pieces lined up that fast.

I used to use it a lot when I dabbled in woodworking. The parts could generally be handled in 30 minutes to an hour dependign on the wood, quantity of glue, weather, etc. and were completely cured and ready for use in 24 hours. I preferred to leave stuff clamped overnight though.

I used titebond when I built my tower tote box. It works great, but I improved on the design with some good wood screws as well. They had the bottom piece only held on by glue so I used screws on it too.

I use the Gorilla wood glue for most of my applications. It has a quick grab and dries more clear than titebond. I am not talking about the expanding Gorilla glue. I kit and scratch build a lot and I can't us CA, so I use the Gorilla glue

TOP TIP

Why not use both! Use Tightbond as your primary glue - apply glue line things up then tack with thin CA to hold things together while the Tightbod sets.

Works for me.

I use Titbond for 90% of my model building (most of my models are 1/4 scale) and I have found it is best not to handle for at least 4 hours, wait longer if the weather is cold. It really takes at least 24 hours before full strength is achieved but you can usually handle safely after about 4 hours. Hotter and drier speeds up the process, high humidity seriously slows the time for achieving of full strength. Another often unknown characteristic of any aliphatic (like Titebond) is it's thermal characteristics. If you spread a thin coat on an object, let it dry, then mate against another materieal, heat and prestoinstant bond.

Is it waterproof?

Titebond III is water proof after a sufficient cure time, Titebond II is quite water resistant but not water proof. Original Titebond is not waterproof.

Does anyone use Titebond where 30 minute epoxy is the norm?
Such as gluing wing halves together.
Thanks,
KW_Counter

Never! If epoxy is required I never use anything other than epoxy.

Hogflyer

Sometimes.. Depends on the structure around the area. If you can apply sufficient clamping to assure a good glue joint. If you aren't expecting the glue to span gaps. It there's bracing, i.e. tri-stock, reinforcing the joint. Under optimal situations, I'd definitely entertain using titebond over epoxy.

Here's a rethorical question. If a titebond joint is stronger than the wood around it... And an epoxy joint is stronger than the wood around it.... Then what breaks first? The wood? the titebond joint? or the Epoxy joint?

The titebond is strong enough that the wood would break first, but will it always remain that way? Titebond can be affected by water or moisture over time. Epoxy is inert.

I like titebond for a lot of stuff, but not wing halves.

Jack

I tried Titebond III on my last build and I love it. I will use it in 99% of my glue joints until something better comes along. However, when it comes to joining wing halves or attaching firewalls, I will stick to epoxy. I also use epoxy pretty much to attach tail feathers to the fuselage, but not always. As far as CA is concerned, I keep Zap onhand and use it to repair a cracked piece of balsa or harden holes or the like, but I have quit using it in the actual building. That's just the way I do it. That doesn't make it right or wrong, just the way I do it. But I am very seldom in a hurry. If you are in a hurry and can stand the fumes, CA is the only way to go. Jib is correct in that almost all of the current adhesives are good enough so that the wood pulls away or breaks before the glue joint, so it really becomes a question of what the individual builder prefers.

I wouldn't use regular Titebond for attaching tail feathers or gluing wings together. It can be a little brittle and can crack under vibration. This isn't a problem in most applications, like gluing doublers in place or making any sort of sandwich. I once had a stabilizer attached with Titebond pop off right after takeoff. Now I use epoxy and have had no problems.

I've never used the newer Titebond; perhaps it's more flexible.

I would use the titebond 2. For balsa, it will set up enough to move in about 1 or 2 hours. On hardwoods and plywood, go at least double the times. and both overnight for full cure/hardness.

Titebond is not a substitute for epoxy. Both may be stronger than the wood but epoxy stays semi-flexable. When instructions call for epoxy, use epoxy. When instructions call for CA you can use Titebond except when using on CA hinges.

In high school, my best friend lost his first plane because he joined the center with regular wood glue. On the 6th flight oil had softened the joint and poof two wing panels and a lawn dart. Just debonded. besides strength, chemical resistance is a good thing in epoxy.

Something no one has commented on is shelf life. Once opened Gorilla glue has a very short shelf life so I never buy any more than I'm planning to use in 6 months or less.
Titebond also has a limited shelf life that starts the day it is made. I bought several large bottles at a good price and one was not opened for a little over a year but it turned clear amber color and was as hard as a rock with out ever being opened and stored in a dark cabinet. the open bottle did the same . A call to their help line and the helpful elderly gent told me not to buy it until I needed it as it would go bad after 18-24 months. When I asked if it was designed that way he told me absolutely not but I have a hard time believing him.
Fred