Okay, I've been flying a electric motor plane and recently got a plane with a two cycle engine. So I'm trying to start this thing in my garage last night and I had NO success. First of all, it is a Magnum .25 GP ABC engine. Here is what I did:
1. I pulled out the glow plug and checked it...it glowed orange. By what I read, that means that it is good right? I also cleaned around the glowplug.
2. I did the priming as described in the manual...so I dropped a few drops of fuel into the carb, I placed my finder over the carb intake and turned the prop a few times,.
3. I connected up the glow plug clip.
4. Throttle at 1/3.
5. Needle valve 1-1/2 turns.
6. Used electric starter to attempt start. The starter can't seem to make it past the compression point. Even if I turn the prop so it'll give the starter a headstart, it doesn't work. BTW, the battery is new...and fully charged.
7. I tried using a chicken stick to get it going too...but now luck.

So I've been doing some searching and I can seem to find out what I should do now. Doesn't look like there is air in the lines, the engine is getting fuel, the fuel is new. Should I change the glow plug? How do I know where the rotor stop screw and air bleed screw should be? What would you experts do? Maybe there is already a good thread on this but I couldn't find it. Thanks for your help.

Can you turn the prop through the compression strok by hand? It sounds like you might be over primed.

Yes I can turn it by hand with no problem. I'm pretty new to this so hopefully I haven't wrecked my engine or anything. If I'm over-primed...what do I do?

Take the clip off the glow plug, turn it backwards a few times and make sure there is not too much fuel in the engine. If it is very hard to turn, there is too much fuel in it. Turning it backwards will clear it. Put the clip back on, open the throttle just a bit, less than 1/4. Then try it again. You may be siphoning fuel in without realizing it and flooding it.

Sounds like you are flooding the engine.

If turning the prop backwards doesn't clear it - take the plug out and put the starter to the prop. This will clear out all the fuel. Be very careful because fuel will shoot out of the head of the engine!!!!! You don't want to get it in your eyes....

Then put the plug back in and try to start it again without priming the engine. The electric starter will draw fuel into the carb very quickly.

It is very easy to overprime or "flood" these little engines.

If you pull the plug and spin it to clear it, put a paper towel over the hole so you don't shoot fuel everywhere.

I agree that it sounds like you've flooded the engine.

When I start my engine, I only prime it by plugging the carb while hand-flipping the prop 2 or 3 times with the carb at half throttle before connecting the glow plug clip. The electric starter will draw fuel very easily.

To clear the engine when flooding is suspected, disconnect the fuel supply, remove the glow plug (cover with paper towel if available) and spin it for a second or two (it doesn't take much). Then re-insert the glow plug, reconnect the fuel supply and start over with less priming.

Another easy priming method - place a finger over the muffler's exhaust port for a split second while cranking the engine with the starter. This briefly increases the pressure feed to the fuel tank, resulting in a rush of fuel.

Well, thanks guys. Got it running now.
Next question:
1. I'm trying to tweak the engine. I set the idle speed with the air bleed screw correct?

2. When I go full throttle I'm getting a little hesitation...sometimes a stall. I correct that with the needle valve right?

3. What does the rotor stop screw do?

Thanks guys!

I think I'll answer those ??'s in reverse order:

3. What does the rotor stop screw do?
The rotor stop limits the lowest throttle setting possible. Ideally you want to be able to fully close the carb in order to be able to kill the engine remotely. Back off this screw until you can close the carb.

2. When I go full throttle I'm getting a little hesitation... sometimes a stall. I correct that with the needle valve right?
Does it sound like it's "burbling" (to rich) during transition? This should improve once you have the high speed needle valve and air-bleed set correctly. It is probably to rich at idle.

1. I'm trying to tweak the engine. I set the idle speed with the air bleed screw correct?
The idle SPEED is set using the carb. The idle MIXTURE is set using the air-bleed screw.

Set the High speed needle valve for optimum RPM first, then richen it up by a couple clicks. Now adjust the air-bleed screw (and carb) for a reliable idle with smooth transition to high speed. Once the air-bleed screw seems right, re-check the high speed needle valve, since the air-bleed screw also affects the high speed mixture slightly.

I start mine with a home made flip stick. It is a piece of plastic tubing, like you would use with a fish tank air pump, about 16" long, folded in half to make a loop. Then I take some electrical tape and tape the two ends next to each other up a few inches to make a handle. It looks like a fly swatter shape of a light bulb when I'm done. I loop the end over the prop at 12 oclock, and flip it downward. (my prop is setup 12 o-clock 6 0-clock instead of 9 and 3.) I'm standing up and the plane is on a waste level table. The fliping action is like I'm trying to smake my leg, and offten I do. :-)

Seams to work better than a stick.

if its too rich test it by puting it at idle and picking up the plane and point the nose down this will kill the engine if its too rich

I thought I should post back for other new people how I got my engine running. The posts were right...I had flooded my engine so I took this advice...

"To clear the engine when flooding is suspected, disconnect the fuel supply, remove the glow plug (cover with paper towel if available) and spin it for a second or two (it doesn't take much). Then re-insert the glow plug, reconnect the fuel supply and start over with less priming."

I now use less priming and it starts right up!