I'm currently rebuilding an old great planes cap 21 for a friend. I've come to the conclusion that there has to be an easier way to make precision cuts in sheeting then the way I've been doing it. I've been using a razor or #11 hobby knife. is there a specilty tool for doing this? I've tried using a dremal with a cut off wheel but it's too easy to over cut. any suggestions?

xacto knife or fine tooth razor saw go slow make sure the blade is new.

X-acto blade works great for me. You just have to watch out that you don't let the balde follow the grain or veer off your intended cut line due to variations in wood density. Rather than trying to make the cut in one pass witht he blade, I score it lightly a couple times to really establish the cut line before cutting all the way through.

Also, blades get dull. I prefer to buy them in large quatities so I have plenty on hand to change them out often.

A good, solid, heavy straight edge helps out too.

i use metal ruler, razor blade=small saw, hobby knife, sanding bar, marking sharpie, patients, comes out nice.
Measure twice cut once.

Depending on what you're cutting, a Master Airscrew stripper is marvelous.  Makes really nice, uniform, strips of balsa from sheet.  Uses a #11 blade. 

Single edge razor blades and a metal straightedge. This it probably the best way to cut sheeting. As was said above, they will dull quickly. I buy them 100 to a package.</p>

Ken</p>

With the grain or less than 45 degrees off the grain - Xacto knive</p>

More than 45 degrees - Razor saw</p>

for cutting strait pieces of wood, wheather with the grain or not, I like using the typical utility knife http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stanley_knife its way stronger than a exacto knife, the blade doesn't flex, and provides clean strait edges for glueing sheeting together.</p>

when I an trueing the edges to glue sheeting together( for wings as a example) I use a metal strait edge clamped to my building board edge and a utility knife.</p>

the utilility knife has a handle thats so much easyier to grip, cutting through thicker wood is a snap.</p>

of course I also use a regular Exacto knife where curved cuts are needed or where a quick slice here or there is all I want to do, and a razor saw where larger wood, like spars, or harder wood like ply or birch requires a strait clean cut.</p>

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I can't believe that no one mention a band or jig saw. Balsa is usually soft and can be cut easily with x-acto but certainly not as easily or accuratly as with a jig saw. If you plan on being in this hobby for the long term definitly get one, they are not expensive. They will also cut plywood,metal etc.

Ihave a band saw and a scroll saw. both are great and come in very handy at times. For cutting straight lines in 1/16 or 3/32 sheeting though Ipersonally think a straight edge and X-acto or razor blade is quicker and easier.

Band saw and jig saw both sound like overkill for precision cuts in balsa sheeting. I use my an exacto knife or razor blade for balsa sheeting or small pieces of balsa. For plywood or thicker/larger pieces of balsa I'll use an exacto saw or my scroll saw.

IMO as help is a "quality" metal straight edge long enough as reqiured. ( it will cost some sheckels ). Also, the surface underneath the wood your cutting can come into play. A trip to your lumber outlet for a sacrificial clean, flat and firm board will help.

Not a good idea to cut on top of board, blade may tend to follow grain of board. When I cut with knife I use a pc. of glass beneath it, also great when cutting Mono. You will be surprised how long blade lasts , oddly glass doesn't seem to dull it. Maybe cause the tip is not in contact totally with glass cutting is being done just a hair above tip. call it overkill if you wish using scroll or saber saw but I find it suits me and been doing it for over 50 years.

If you go to a machining supply for a straight edge it will cost you about $100 for about 3 feet.

If you go to your local lumber supply or Walmart, you can get a Stanley metal yardstick for under $4 which is straight enough for anything that we use it for. Just make sure to get the bare metal yardstick and not one of the painted ones.

hi a coping saw is great for cutting hardwwods and -plywood up to 1/4 inch thicki cut all by hand -cutting on a piece of plexiglass is great for balsa and the film covering materialsit hold your work in place a stanley knife is good were an exacto number 11 blade is not-a zona saw you get at the hobby hope is great-i use the i inch one -find it to be best

RCKen might also suggesttrying to find a very fine pointed light saber. I've tried, but have had some trouble. My laser is a tad bit underpowered.

Maybe this will help.</p>

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CgJ0E...2&amp;index=17</p>

I picked up a balsa saw and a 100pack of #11's as well as some Patience. I guess the old saying can be applied here also... "If it was easy everyone would do it"

What Isle did you find the patience in? I have been looking all over and still can't find it.

This will strip just about any thickness of balsa (and other woods) to just about any thickness you want with precision. One of the best investments I've made, and it gets a lot more use than the band saw and as much if not more than the scroll saw.

http://www.micromark.com/MICROLUX-MI...-USE,7500.html

Hogflyer

"OUCH!!!!"

[quote]ORIGINAL: goirish

Well, he didn't stipulate a price range and it's cheaper than a laser table.

For long, straight cuts, I use a metal straight edge and razor blade. For short, straight cuts I use a razor saw. For outside curves (i.e. ribs), I use a coping saw to within 1/4" of the line, then use my benchtop belt/disk sander to get right to the line. For inside curves (i.e. wing saddles), i use a 1 1/2" drum sander on my drill press to get right up to the line.</p>

For cutting big square things, like firewalls, plywood formers, and landing gear bocks, I use a power miter saw.</p>