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I built a G.P. PT-40 over the winter it was my first kit it needs a engine and all electronics about $200.00. I made several mistakes building this plane, large gaps in control surfaces, stab. Does not line up with wing, used the wrong balsa fillet on the stab, and fin 1&rdquo; instead of &frac14;&rdquo; and used a lot of epoxy now the plane needs 1lb of weight in the nose, and the list goes on. About 2 mounts ago I started a G.P. Supersporster I just need to cover the wing to complete it, because of the experience I gained form building the PT-40 this plane is perfect. (build thread</p>

Question should I spend the $200.00 on the PT-40 and hope it will fly good enough for a beginner, or using a instructor and a buddy box can I learn to fly using my Supersporster. The other possibility is buying a easy 4ch park flyer to practice on, was looking at these:</p></span><u><font color="#0000ff" size="4"><font color="#0000ff" size="4"><span lang="EN">http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_8766402/tm.htm</span></font></font></u><font size="4"><span lang="EN"> )</span><u><font color="#0000ff" size="4"><font color="#0000ff" size="4"><span lang="EN">http://www.parkflyers.com/html/rc_cessna_182_pro.html</span></font></font></u><font size="4"><span lang="EN"> or http://www.parkflyers.com/html/cessn...rge_scale.html</span></font></font><u><font color="#0000ff" size="4"><font color="#0000ff" size="4">

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The reason I am thinking of the park flyer is because my club (all old timers) only teach one day a week, and if it rains on that your out of luck for 2 weeks with a park flyer I can fly every day.</p></font></font></u>

What engine, radio, servos are you planning on using on this plane for $200? Seems a tad short for that equippage.

CGr.

1lb is not a huge deal on a trainer like the PT-40. All the things you did wrong would affect other planes like a highly acrobatic Extra or warbird a lot more than a trainer. You'd be surprised what you can trim out. If you don't have the engine already are you sure you'll need that much weight? If you can purchase an engine and electronics that can be put in the Supersportster after the PT-40, that's the way I'd go. Once you get a few months on the PT-40 and you solo, then switch the gear over.

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4 standard servos $10.00 each $40.00</p>

Rx $50.00</p>

Engine magum 46 $75.00</p>

Misc $50.00</p>

I have a Tx. Airtronics VG-400</p></span>

Post pictures of the PT-40. You'd be amazed at how badly a trainer can be built and still fly well. The SuperSportster is a good second plane, but I personally wouldn't want to use it for training a beginner.

$200 for engine and radio equipment is not out of line. I picked up a Hitech flight pack a few weeks ago at the LHS for $80, and a good 46 can easily be had for rougly $100 (just don't go with OS, YS, or Saito. Think Thunder Tiger Pro or Super Tiger.

Brad

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I had a Evolution in the PT-40 and it still needed 1lb of weight, I now have that engine in my Sporster and since the cowl is built around this engine it must stay in the sporster, if it ever got damaged I would never find a engine that would fit in the sporster.

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The pictures look OK, but its hard to tell the errors you described in building without some closeups. Regarding CG, since you mention having to spend $200, does this mean you haven't yet mounted the electronic? These MUST be installed in order to check the balance. Mount them as far forward as you can, including getting the battery in the nose under the fuel tank. But keep it accessible in the event you find out you want to move it backword. Most trainers should balance on or near the wing spar. if you're within 1/2" of that, the plane will probably fly fine. Just have an experienced pilot do the maiden flight for you.

Brad

Go ahead and get the flight pack elec/engine even if you don,t end up liking this airplane you will just use the stuff further down the line.

16 ounces of nose weight is a little high, First if the battery is not under the fuel tank all the way forward directly behind the firewall then make it happen even if you have to cut a hatch in the bottom. Then ballance with what ever it takes and get on with it.

The gaps unless you could drive a freight train through and a tilting stab or something are no big deal, just get on with it.

John

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I had the electronics and engine in the pt-40 but took them out and put them in the sporster was a little short on cash but now I am doing great so I can afford to get flying. On of the things that really worries me is the ailerons if I align them at the root they are off as much as ½” at the tip.</p></span>

There's not much we can tell you on the forum because we can't inspect your plane. Get a local pilot, preferably a trainer, to look your plane over and tell you what to fix. There are very few things in an airframe that are irreperable, so your trainer is not lost.

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Before I can have someone in the club look at the plane I need to complete it, $200.00 that’s a lot for a plane that my not be airworthy. I can get a good electric park flyer for about that and it’s garneted to fly right.</p></span></span>

The PT40 is an excellent trainer platform and the issues you described can be fixed. The Park Flyers you listed are not very forgiving for errors made in flight and not near as as stable platform as the PT40. Stay with the PT and fix the minor issues. 1 pound of weight aft seems to be a bit much. Are you sure that you are balancing from the correct CG location? I can't believe it would be that far off unless you added about a half a pound up front.

Does this mean that you are planning to not have an instructor? Well then neither of the parkflyers you described will be good for self-taught. If you really want to go self-taught, I would start with a cheaper 3-channel such as the HobbyZone Super cub, which is a bit more forgiving than what you suggested http://www.hobbyzone.com/rc_planes_h..._super_cub.htm or maybe even the HobbyZone Mini Super Cub to save even more cash and can be flown in a small field http://www.hobbyzone.com/rc-planes-h...er-cub-rtf.htm

Both the Super Cubs have parts that can be purchased and replaced very easily.

But it is also my belief that your PT-40 would be perfectly flyable, it takes ALOT to make a trainer unflyable. And 1 pound of weight added is nothing for a trainer (my first PT-40 needed three D-batteries under the tank to level it), the .46 Magnum (or even the engine in the Sportster) will be enough power to handle that. It will be quite a while before you get to the Sportster, and it is very easy to pull the engine out. If you can not take the engine off from the mount, then you can easily remove the entire mount from the firewall.

My concern is you state that the stab is not lined up proper with the wing, that could cause some problem. If you don't fly the PT-40 what are your plans for it? The cash, time and effort you put into it, to do nothing with it in the end. If you decide not to fly it I am sure there are many here who would take it off your hands, but then you lose big bucks cause you won't get back what you put into it.

I know you think you can't take the engine out of your Super Sportster. But that's simply not the case. Pull the engine out of that plane and put it on your trainer until you are finished flying the trainer, and then transfer it back to your Sportster. Engines normally survive crashes, so I wouldn't worrry about it being destroyed. However, even it is destroyed it's an evolution engine. These aren't rare engines and are very easy to replace.

That would save you $75. Buy the receiver as it's not a throw-away item either. You'll be able to use it later on down the road in other planes.

Since you are limited on cash you would be better off flying your trainer. Park flyers won't handle the bumps and bangs associated with learning to fly as well as your trainer will. So the chances of losing your money by damaging the park flyer are higher than with your trainer.

As others have said above, your trainer will more than likely fly just fine. And if there are some issues with it they should be fairly easy to fix in order to get your trainer flying.

Ken

That I don't know how to fix. My Super Sportster the right aileron is off but only by about 1/16" at one tip, and I am not going to worry about it. I don't know if you can let it go 1/2" with a trainer.