My phoenix super decathalon is almost ready to fly. Just need to cut out the cowl and install the battery switch. No real issues with the build other than the rear rudder not meeting flush with the bottom of the fuse. A small reinforcement block was added at the factory for the rear tail landing gear on the bottom of the fuse. It is covered. The pics in the manual don't show it. It caused me to have to put a lazy z bend in the rear wheel wire so that I could attach the wheel mech to the rudder. Also there were no clear instructions for mounting the wing struts or wing strut mount plates, only photo's. Took a little thinking to figure it all out, but got it.
I'm running an OS 46LS on this one. Brett suggested that I start with a 12 X 4 for the maiden flight. The OS book says to use an 11 X 6. I'm thinking I will go with the 12 X 4 and then maybe move to a 12 X 6.
Can someone tell me why the fuel tank manufacturers do not just set up the plug assembly with the vent tubes and such properly angled? or even with the plug already installed? Just seems like it should be one of the many things in this industry that could be standardized. I realize some may mount the tank side ways, inverted or what ever, but just seems there should be a way not to have to hassle with bendinng and cut brass tubing, or plastic, and trying to hold the tank up to a light source and attempting to see if the clunk is at the right distance, vent tube not touching the top etc....

Hey Bill,


FWIW, those fuel tanks that come with arfs are
usally junk (leak around the bung). They just
bag up yhr cheap parts and make you assemble
them. Let us know how it goes,Good Luck.

Bob

Yeah, I upgraded to a dubro 10 oz tank. Heading for california tomorrow. Wont be able to maiden the SD for another week!! ARRGH! hope to run the first tank of fuel through it tonight.

Good upgrade, you going to El Toro ?

Bob

Nah, El Toro no longer exist. Miramar (now a Marine Corps Air station). One other thing, the SD manual says to balance the plane upside down!!!??? it's a high wing plane! I'm thinknig they have a "Cut and paste" issue from one o their long wing model plane manual.

As cheap as they may be, I've never had one leak if it was correctly assembled, and that on over 40 very inexpensive ARF's.

I've only ever goofed up one.

You may want to check how you are assembling them.

Are you removing the excess plastic?

Are you permitting the expansion of the stopper to create a seal?

Do you tie off the tubing?

Thanks,
Not tieing off the tube fittings , sure the stopper is installed correctly, but with the dead sticks I had last weekend with my trainer, makes me wonder if something fuel related is going on. Not sure, but for this one I'll tie the fittings. I like the sullivan clear tanks, but LHS doesn't carry them, there is no doubt with them that the piping is right and it's easy to see the clunk. I just finished cutting out the cowl, doesn't look too bad for a rookie. But could've done better.

I never balanced mine upside down, I think you would have a very hard time doing it that way too.

I've been using small wire ties both inside the tank to affix the tubing, and to prevent the tubes from moving when I screw around with the lines.

This seems to help a lot and was suggested for gasoline engines too.

When you assemble a new tank a good idea is to blow into the CLEAN tubing with the other side stopped up, and spray the tank with windex, etc...

Look for any bubbles or seapage.

The plastic flashing on the cheaper tanks typically causes problems as it creates an area that lifts the stopper even when compressed.

I usually use fine sandpaper to clean out the flashing around the hole, then flush the tank with windex, let it dry, and finish with another small flush of glow fuel.

Yeah that's what I was thinking too. I checked it this morning and it was right on at 100mm right side up. Just need to run break in on the engine and she's ready to fly.