Well I have taken the plunge and started to build my first kit. Its a great planes p51 mustang. I know I know, not a begginer build (or fly) but Im gonna try and takle it. It won't be the first one I fly but I will slowly build it up through the coming months. The plan is to build this while learning to fly a trainer that I plan to purchase. Not quite sure what trainer yet but Im hoping to pick up an intermediate style trainer that I wont grow out of quite so quickly. Ive got all the stuff to go along with the build and I picked a OS .46 AX engine. The only thing I am missing so far is the covering material and tools. I think I will find someone that knows what they are doing to help with that process. After reading the instructions a couple of times and reading a few books I think I can probably handle the rest. Im hoping to use my Spectrum DX6i transmitter with the plane but Im not sure yet with what reciever.

One question I have is about the servos. Ive got some Futaba 3004 standard bb servos but Im wondering if I can use those for this plane? I cant find specs on what the servo speed and torque should be. I dont want to put in weak servos only to see the plane go down.

So far Ive got the tail feathers set up, glued and sanded. I used a hollow door and some DOW foam as the building surface. I have thin and med CA and 6 and 30 minute epoxy. If there looks to be somethign wrong, fire away!

Standard servos are just fine in this plane. If you post up in the Kit building forum you may be able to get some help and ideas on your build. I have built the Top Flight kits but never built this GP 40 size kit.

Hi Dufault,
I think you have a great game plan as far as putting in your time on a trainer. Get with a good instructor. I can highly recommend the Texas RC Explorer 40 as an excellent trainer.I got mine last fall. Itwas about$65 plus shipping, and it'sreasonably agile with it's semi semetrical wing configuration and was a quick easy build. I have a St 45 on mine. Your OS 46 would be great on it too.

Good Luck,
Dave

If you do not have plastic covering you plans they are not going to last long. [:@] and as stated there are good build threads on Kit Building Forum
Larry K

I did the same many years ago. After a med. prob. I needed something to do, so I built the GP P-51 with a K&B 45 and then a LT-40 trainer and started leaning to fly with an instructor. While learning I built the Goldberg Anniversary Cub. I had the instructor maiden both Cub & P-51 and they flew great. So we turned to the Cub on buddy cord, and them the P-51. But as a kid I had built many stick kits and U-contol planes. So I had some experiance building. The GP P-51 is a nice build and a great flier. I had it for many years. Just take your time and build it straight.
Rich

Thanks guys. I do have wax paper covering where the wood is right now. Seems to work alright for glueing. I have been trying to find a build thread on this plane but I have yet to find it. It would be nice to learn from someone elses mistakes. I think I might get outfitted with a trainer later today and then start flying it in sept (MAAC prices are half what they usually are) Im going to get a ARF kit so I can just wip it together. Ive got lots of helicopter flying experience so Im hoping the transfer to planes will be easy. Is it possible to move this into the kit building section if it is more approapriate there? I wasnt sure where it should be but because Im a beginner I picked here.

I built one of these many years ago. It's been a long time, but I don't recall anything unusual about the build.

It's a great flier! Just take your time and make sure things are straight.

Yeah....It's a great flier, just take your time and build it straight like RICMOD said.


Lm

Woo hooo .. another kitbuilder... FYI.. it's more fun to build when you already have something else to fly

I'd forget about that 6 min epoxy. Too short of working time and better strength with the 30 min also. I'd also use a good wood glue instead of the CA for most of the gluing like TiteBond II or similar. You're not in a hurry and wood glue is more forgiving and easier to sand and work with in general. Also better for YOUR health than breathing CA fumes.

Kitbuilder, Im covered there already. Ive got my Trex 450 heli that I fly a few times a week and coming next friday I should have a trainer. Its a ARF nexstar?, basically its a high wing easy to fly capable of some very mild acrobatics. I bought the rest of the electronics needed and I believe the plan will be learn to fly this plane and then take the electronics and motor from it for the Mustang. Hopefully I dont become to attached and have to buy more stuff!

I finished joining the elevators today after drilling the holes for the elevator wire joiner. Things seem to line up perfect with the plans and I used 30 min epoxy on them. Bruce, your right, I bought the 6 min epoxy but I cant really see using it when the 30 minute gives you more time. Im currently using CA but I will look into the wood glue. IM still waiting on hinges to come in so I will be moving onto the wing. My work area was a little frustrating tonight. I know it needs to be perfectly flat but when I gave the dow a good look there were spots where it diped down maybe .5mm. I wound up turning around the whole table to find an area that was perfectly flat for the wing. Am I being too picky or is .5mm going to make a different on the wing surface?

,5mm is tolerable

Let's see, 0.5 mm = 0.01968503937 inch. Hmmmm, there are those that would consider that to be dead flat as far as modeling is concerned. You have a great building surface if you have that or better. Well done!

Dufault.. on the elevator joined by the wire... I always put a piece of fiberglass around that joint on each half. You don't have to but that area takes a lot of stress and it's just somehting i do. Over time that balsa will weaken.

I hope the pic makes sense. Basically a C over each half. I run it to where the wire stops in each elevator. My 4* 40 had the same setup with the wire joiner and never had a failure.

the build thread on this plane was easy to find http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_28...tm.htm#2854642 its about using the search function that will make you tear your hair out, random non applicable topics come up.

as for the servos there plenty for this plane I use the 3004 Futaba servos allot for 60 size planes,I use CA quite a bit it depends on how you set up the build and how quickly and accurately the parts are positioned.

epoxy myth #1 5 min epoxy is so much weaker than 30 min, not really so much that it makes a difference in the modeling world, the loads applied to areas are not sufficient to worry about the minor strength differences.

for gluing a connecting wire between elevators, and areas where a properly fitted part needs to be set in its place, I personally prefer the quick epoxy, again set up is everything test fit the wire joiner and make sure the 2 parts are correctly lined up apply glue and in a couple min. its done.

with the longer hardening adhesive there is time to adjust the parts but if your moving things around then there is room for air bubbles to work there way into voids, and for parts to shift out of position if not properly clamped into position,if a clamp or pin shifts your just as burnt as if you didn't hold the part in position using the quicker adhesive, its good to have several types handy they all have there appropriate uses, the hardener is what makes the epoxy go off slower or faster BTW not the resin.

That makes sense. Do most hobby shops carry fiberglass strips? I know some came with the kit but I dont think it came with extra. Another thing about fiberglass. When I was reading the instructions on puting on the fiberglass Im a little confused about how much CA glue to use. It says to put CA drops in a line until the whole thing is covered. Is that thick or thin CA and do I smear it in after?

Edit, Thanks for the link Tim. That was just what I was looking for. I perfer to learn from others mistakes and not my own. (if only it were that simple)

dufault,

It sounds like you have the building bug, and that is good!!!

When you are finished building, and you are flying your trainer, I don't see where it would be bad to fly it on a buddy box system. You are obviously aware of what you in for. If you have help I'm sure you will be successful (If you use the buddy box).

It looks good. I looking forward to seeing your progress. Take a LOT of pictures! [sm=thumbup.gif]

Brian

It's thin CA and it should cover all the glass. Most people use 30 min. epoxy and spread it out with an old credit card, playing card or paint brush, It smells a lot better and doesn't cost as much as CA. I brush a thin coat on the wood first and stick the glass down then brush or spread on more epoxy over the top. Sort of feather the epoxy along the edge of the glass. Clean up using acetone or alcohol along the edges. Most hobby shops sell the glass by the Sq. Yd. and in different weights. There should be some glass left over from that strip they gave you for the wing center section. You can also buy glassing kits at the big hardware stores that has the resin/hardner and glass all in one, that works very well too.

Thanks Gray, I was thinking that an epoxy might be better to use. I have been thinking about retracts vs no retracts and I believe I have settled on non retractable landing gear. Anyone have any thoughts on this. I love the though of retracts but I dont want to bite off more then I can chew and there seems to be a fair amount of fiddling going on with retracts. Plus if I was going to do it, I would want to have opening and closing doors which my current radio system just doesnt have enough channels for. I suppose there is always more planes to build after...I think I may have just started something that cannot be stopped. Looks like rain tomorrow, my bike ride might be cancelled and building may have to replace it.

Ilikebipes, I found a flying field near where I live and there seems to be a couple of good instructors there. I checked and they have 2.4 ghz cables there so its definetly not going up without a buddybox. Seems easy enough to fly on the sim, but somehow its never quite the same as real life.

You'll have someone right next to you though. It should still be fine. Some people think training that way is better anyhow (I prefer the buddybox).

Somebody correct me if I'm wrong, but I think you can still use the buddy box system on 2.4 ghz. (Unless it is a cord from a 72mhz to 2.4ghz. I don't know if that is an issue.)

Brian

Edit-

Still go with the retracts. [sm=thumbup.gif]

I know my Dx6i can be hooked up to another 2.4 ghz as long as its spectrum. I believe one of the instructors at the club has a DX7 so I should be fine. How much work are the retracts and how do they work? I know you need an extra servo and the retract system. Dave Brown something? Do these tend to go in fairly easy? I need to look up some things. Im hoping the LHS will have the system I need. When I go to pick up the training I might ask. 6 channels is enough for retracts correct? I think you only need 5?

Well I got a little bit done tonight. Glued the spars together tonight and tried to counter the two parts so that I could straighten them slightly. Three out of the four look really good but the one curles up a little. I dont think its that big of a deal because its only a slight bend. What do you guys think? If I hold the one end, the other end points up maybe 1/4 of an inch. Its slightly better now with the other glued spart to it but not by much. I also cut out all my ribs and sanded. Im at a crossroads now where I actually have to make a decision about retracts. I really want to go for, so I might take a trip to the hobby shop and see if they have what I need. Hopefully its pretty standard. Finally, Ive been trying to decide if I want to get a pitts muffler and Ive decided its more less a must. I dont want an ugly muffler ruining my cowl.

If your spars are warped slightly, pin the spar so it matches my ridiculous little drawing. This will build the warp out of the wing. Do not assemble the spars so the bends the same way. This will build a warp into the wing.-BAD THING!

I'm thinking that the GP 40 size mechanical retracts ought work very well and hold up better with your airplane. The Dave Browns are kinda' obsolete and hard to come by. Not very difficult to install.

Your radio should work just fine for this.

My preference is the Hitec 180 degree retract servo.

Brian

It says that the GP 40 size mechanical are 85 degrees where in the instructions it says to get 88 degree. Is that a big enough difference or should an 85 degree work ? Its odd they dont recommend their own retracts isnt it?

The spar drawing makes sense, but only 1 of them is sorta warped so so I place the warp in or out? Its pinned right now and I belive its getting better.

Pin it to the board just like the bottom spar in the 1st picture.

Regarding the retracts, 85 degree should work really well, but I haven't seen this kit since I built mine in 1994. A more recent builder could help you with your retract question.

Brian