choosing hi tec servos
#1
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From: worcester, UNITED KINGDOM
hi - i'm new to this hobby and need help choosing hi tec servo's for my ugly stik build - i'll need to buy five servo's as i'm using one for each aileron -the stick is 60" WS with FS 70 engine and i'm running spektrum dx6i radio - just need good solid analogue servo's tha
t will perform but not break the bank but am confused by the amount available - any help much appreciated
t will perform but not break the bank but am confused by the amount available - any help much appreciated
#2
If you want Hitec's you can start with the cheapest, which is the HS-311 (Bushing, analog standard size) ro go up from there to the 322, or 325's. It's up to you. Some people will say the 311's will wear out but it might not make much difference with the plane you are using them in. I have been happy with mine.
Regards,
Curtis
Regards,
Curtis
#3
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From: Laurel, MD,
It's really just a matter of "best servo you can afford". I think it's worth it to go with the 425 servo on elevator and rudder if nothing else. Throttle, the 311 or 322 or whatever is fine. But if you can only afford the less expensive 3xx series, you will be fine, you'll just get better performance and life out of the 425 or better servos.
Of course, no matter how good the servo, if your pushrods aren't right, it just doesn't matter.
Of course, no matter how good the servo, if your pushrods aren't right, it just doesn't matter.
#4
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From: Emmaus,
PA
I use Futaba S3004 ball bearing servos for all of my nitro planes not requiring high torque servos.
MyAtomic.com has them for $12.99 with free shipping on $25+ orders.
http://www.myatomic.com/catalog/view...andard_bb_bulk
MyAtomic.com has them for $12.99 with free shipping on $25+ orders.
http://www.myatomic.com/catalog/view...andard_bb_bulk
#6

My Feedback: (16)
I've run all the servos mentioned so far in my 60 size sticks and I liked them all
Ones that didn't do so well were the discontinued Hitec 300's that have pots that go bad and the Futaba 148's will wear out the top bearing in short order.
the 148's are easily repaired with a new top cover.
Hitec 322's are cheap and seem to last forever
The Hitec 425's have 2 ball bearings. One on each end of the output shaft
The Futaba 3004 only has one ball bearing in the top cover
Ones that didn't do so well were the discontinued Hitec 300's that have pots that go bad and the Futaba 148's will wear out the top bearing in short order.
the 148's are easily repaired with a new top cover.
Hitec 322's are cheap and seem to last forever
The Hitec 425's have 2 ball bearings. One on each end of the output shaft
The Futaba 3004 only has one ball bearing in the top cover
#7
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The worst of the worst are JR Sport servos.....they didn't even make it through a gallon of fuel before the bushings wore out on a sport plane of mine. Even though they were dirt cheap, what a waste. I've never seen servos wear out so fast.
Hiteks are generally a good bet. I think it is cheaper in the long run to buy ball bearing servos, especially if you're going to really throw that plane around. As stated above, make sure the linkage is stiff and tight. Set the throws up mechanically with the right ratios to give the poor servo as much mechanical advantage [leverage] as possible. More throw than the plane can use puts a strain on the gear train and hurts control resolution.
Hiteks are generally a good bet. I think it is cheaper in the long run to buy ball bearing servos, especially if you're going to really throw that plane around. As stated above, make sure the linkage is stiff and tight. Set the throws up mechanically with the right ratios to give the poor servo as much mechanical advantage [leverage] as possible. More throw than the plane can use puts a strain on the gear train and hurts control resolution.
#10
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From: Brandon,
MB, CANADA
I second the JR comment. They are crap! I have worn out 3 of them in about 3/4 of a season. I personally like the HT425BB. Only wrecked one due to a hard crash. Best bang for buck IMHO
#11
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Scot, if the pushrod is a continuous wire from end to end with plenty of guides stationed to prevent bowing or flex, that's all you need. Carbon tubing slid over the wire is great for applications where guides aren't practical or would look too "cobby".
Modelers got along just fine before carbon tubes came out. The extra mass of unsupported carbon rods can also start vibrating at lower than expected rpms and wipe out a gear train if conditions are just right [or wrong].
For .40 to .60 sized planes, #4 hardware will usually outlast the plane...but keep your eye on the clevises. Steel clevises VS nylon is a subject for debate, but both work. I like the nylon clevises that have a steel pin.
Check your installation out in both push and pull mode by fighting the servo's effort with reasonable pressure from your hand. There shouldn't be any give, slop, clicks, pops, snaps, grinding, smoke billowing, etc.
Have fun.
Modelers got along just fine before carbon tubes came out. The extra mass of unsupported carbon rods can also start vibrating at lower than expected rpms and wipe out a gear train if conditions are just right [or wrong].
For .40 to .60 sized planes, #4 hardware will usually outlast the plane...but keep your eye on the clevises. Steel clevises VS nylon is a subject for debate, but both work. I like the nylon clevises that have a steel pin.
Check your installation out in both push and pull mode by fighting the servo's effort with reasonable pressure from your hand. There shouldn't be any give, slop, clicks, pops, snaps, grinding, smoke billowing, etc.
Have fun.
#13
Metal pushrods are fine. Didn't your kit come with them? (nylon is good for the throttle and helps prevent any interference from the engine)
Servos? I really like the HT 425 myself.
Servos? I really like the HT 425 myself.
#14
If you want a good dual ball-bearing servo at a great price, I have about 10 of these installed in my planes (40 sized) and they work great. They are quick, strong, and quiet, and they center very well. Price is excellent too, especially if you are buying other things from HC like their volt-watch knockoff.
Curtis
[link=http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=3743&Product_Name=HXT_6. 9kg_/_39.2g_/_.16sec_Twin_bearing_servo]HXT5010 BB servo[/link]
Curtis
[link=http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=3743&Product_Name=HXT_6. 9kg_/_39.2g_/_.16sec_Twin_bearing_servo]HXT5010 BB servo[/link]
#15

My Feedback: (-1)
I too like the 475s for my smaller planes. When I placed my order at Servocity I ordered 475s but got 485s with the CF gear train. Same servo though. I think I gave 18 bucks for them or about that.
I would use 4-40 hardware on that plane. If you are only using one elevator servo with a Y-push rod then I go out and buy an arrow shaft and make up my push rod. What you use for controls depends a lot on how you set it up and where your servos are located.
I would use 4-40 hardware on that plane. If you are only using one elevator servo with a Y-push rod then I go out and buy an arrow shaft and make up my push rod. What you use for controls depends a lot on how you set it up and where your servos are located.
#16

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From: Houston,
TX
I like 475's but they've been discontinued and replaced with the 485's (same servo, slightly faster and a little more torque) at $17 I'll say the extra $4 to the 425's are worth it.



