Hey Guys! Ive really been thinking of re-working my Hanger 9 showtime. One of the changes might be to do a complete skin job. Could you guys share some knowledge on how you go about creating templates for proper curves, painting etc. Ive done a couple of repair jobs which involved recovering certain areas...and not for nothing...they came out perfect. So Im thinking I have the ability to make this happen...but want to gather as much information and tips as possible to make sure its done right. Here is a pic of what Im thinking of doing. Its simple, yet very nice.

If you guys want to offer alternative suggestions, Id be glad to take a look at them. Any websites or direction to info would also be appreciated.

One question: Do the lines and shape of the fuse favor certain schemes over others? Does it make sense to cover in all white then paint the scheme on?(Something tells me the answer is no). Is there a process when painting over Ultracote? Primer?

lets try that again...

Ok finally got it to upload...but cant delete the empty posts...so....

Lets here it guys....

Thanks!

Most certainly the lines of a plane need to be accented by the covering. The difference is a plane that looks like it was well thought out vs a plane that looks like one of those hodge pog quilts you grandma used to make using pieces from every kids and grandkids baby blankets. Admitedly some planes do well with a covering job like that but I would think that's not what you want on a showtime. One that I like is to take the original design and change the colors to something totally different. Decide first if you want to use semitric design or asymetric or even a combination of the two as in my example below. When you need to make semetric cuts just get twice as much monocoat as you need and fold it in half. Cut out your peice and you will have a mirror image already made. To make nice consistand curves get a french curve from an art/drafting supply store. Play with it a little on some scratch paper. Also have a fine tip sharpie marker on hand and trace out your design on the monocoat prior to cutting. The marker will come off with rubbing alcohol. Check out Minnflyers videos reguarding applying covering to learn some techniques and then just go for it. Don't forget to post your progress here.

Thanks stang....for the suggestions on keeping the trim somewhat similar...and for the french curve idea. Didnt know what that was until now. This should make everything easier.

<font color="#00265e" size="2">Mr67Stang</font> , is that a on-board glow starter, or a ignition?

That is an electronic spark ignition for gas (petrol) engines. The engine is an Evolution 26GT (MVVS 26 Petrol).

SWEET! I've had a handful of rc's with ingition and just ran like a champion. NGK all the way

Ah, so how does one go about finding that 'perfect' covering job? Innate creativity is certainly helpful, but not required. The following planes all started out as 'blank canvas' after covering in the base color, ie:white, black. Trim was floated on with Windex. Monokote is ALL I use.

The Skybolt was one of my first 'complicated' designs, but the inspritation came from the box. I just used different colors is all. Old Glory and that SSE were inspired by the legendary 3D American Flag thread. The tail feathers on that SSE where inspired by a sticker that came with my GP Extra 60 kit. Speaking of the Extra, it was inspired by one of my wife's Egyptian lamps of all things, hence "Isis".

Google images is also your friend. Google image key word like 'cool paint schemes', or the like. Many of my designs start as inspiration on just a small part of somebody else's design. Pictures of full scale watercraft and motorcycles can also be used to give inspiration. Just be patient. Most of the covering schemes in these pictures have 60+ hours into them. And yes, I mean JUST THE COVERING!

Thanks Deadeye. That Skybolt is gorgeous!!! You guys are giving me hope.

Deadeye.... All I can say is wow! That "Isis" plane is absolutely gorgous. Inspiring indeed... Might be time to break out one of my kits or strip an ARF an do something similar

Gee guys, thanks for the compliments! Covering is my favorite part of building for me. I've got a TNP Shoestring that I will be covering by mid November (I hope!). I am gaining inspiration for the covering job, using the pictures down there. Those colors look sharp, and I know I won't get any blending effect from Monokote. But it's an inspiration, all the same.

Wow thats amazing. Being able to blend would be really nice!!!

You can... Fiber glass the surface, sand smooth, prime, sand smooth again, air brush.

I'm considering this...but also just the color combinations really struck me. I ordered pearl teal, metallic burgundy, pearl white, metallic teal, maroon, and platinum (platinum is ALWAYS used on my planes - it's the best complimentary color out of the whole Monokote lineup). I've got those rolls within sight of my project...that kind of gets the creative juices flowing as well.

Chances are it won't look anything like those pictures, but I bet I use a few of the colors.

I've got more planes if you guys want to see them (even though these are among my best). I just don't want to hijack or seem like a show off is all. I've got a story for almost every one of my covering schemes.

Please show us!! This is also to serve as inspiration for all!!! Everyone please feel free to post whatever you're proud of!!

I do have one other question...probably another post..... Should I recover....I would like to cut all of my hinges to make some changes to horns etc.... now I know that I can just cut new slots for new hinges right next to the old ones. However, on one elevator half I have already done this to fix broken hinges. How do I get around this? Would I have to cut the Wood out and replace in order to rehinge? I know its very difficult, if possible at all, to cut the slot through old Ca/hinges....but if i was to rebuilt, I want to get everything as precise as possible.

You can reslot where the old hinges where and use Dubro pinned hinges in there place as CA will likely not work there again but epoxy will. More inspiration too

Ok. But it's a morning coffee thing. I will start in the AM, MST. And do what 'stang says, or try Robart hinge points - that's all I use. I love them.

Here's my Northstar. It's the last kit I've built. I crashed it on maiden, rebuilt it, and am scared as &^%$ to fly it again. Inspiration was from a watercraft I saw on google images and saved it for reference....crash was no delta experience. Pilot error. I can be a really dummy sometimes. That's all hand cut Monokote. A couple of brewskis helps with steadiness cutting Monokote.

My Top Flite Cessna 182 took over 300 hours to build. At least 100 hours was just into the outer finish. It's all fiberglassed, and painted. I also spent a fair amount of time on my scale luggage door that hid all of my switches, fuel valve, switch control PCB's, and all that stuff. Scale Robart Oleo strut on the nose, Magnum 91 under the cowl (PERFECT MATCH!). It's got scale lights, including landing lights, and all the nav lights. It even features a lower cabin light for the barf bag compartment. Magazines are in the seat backs.

It weighs 14 and a halfish pounds, RTF, but it doesn't fly that heavy at all, and can be a real B&%#h to land sometimes with a wierd wind. It was my 3rd kit, and my first attempt at a 'scale' kit. I've only got about 30-40 flights on it, but it is very forgiving, no bad habits at all. She's my hangar queen, even though its not nearly as flashy as some of my others. But I sure as heck remember those hundred hours of priming, sanding, rinse and repeat for what seemed like a thousand times.

She's been worth it, though. Top Flite Kits always kick butt.

Very nice! You are talented for sure.

Thanks man! Next up is Lucky. Lucky was built my second year. She is a scratch built coroplast behemoth with an 8 foot wingspan and a Quadra 35 on the nose. She weighs in at 25 pounds, but she doesn't feel that heavy in the air. I have a bomb bay doors in the belly, and it can hold a coffee can of cargo.

The trim is all vinyl, and I cheated and had the 'Lucky" and shamrocks cut by machine. The checkerboard, however, is all hand cut.