I have come to a point where I need to decide on which control cables to buy. My question is how do you make a choice as to length, diameter, and whatever else must be considered for any given application (loads?).
My personal applications are for a 108 in. wingspan Zero and a 79.25 in. wingspan FW.

I like the sullivan controls, they don't tend to bind and are easy to cut to the ideal lenth plus they still use an ajustable clevis on the ends which is nice for find tuning controls.

OK, so what you're telling me is that all control cables, regardless of the brand(?), can be cut to fit. Is there any special tool I need to attach the clevis'?
Thanks.

Distructions are on the packages, cut with anything sharp

Swampyankee, I never trusted the hardware that came with any pushrod's, not that the hardware is not good, Ijust don't trust it. Beingpushrod's plays a HUGE rolein wether you're plane comes home or not, depends onreliable pushrods.

Instead of using the hardware for the clevis's that comes with the kit. I use a small torch and solder the clevis to the threaded rod for a spin free setup, totally solid.Use the servo end of the pushrod to adjust the length. It's worked for me for over 20 years and counting, especially on a model like you want to put them on. If you are not very good with a torch and solder, stick with the kit instruction's.

to the OP... forgive me, but I thought I should ask...

do you have extensive RC experience?
both of those airframes that you mentioned are usually a bit more advanced....

No RC experiance. Building static wooden kits, yes, flying examples, no. Dad always said if you can read you can tackle most any job. I have a mechanical background and limited money, so I don't want to spend my money and time on a/c I have no interest in, ie civilian type trainers. I figure I'll enjoy the builds now (what I really like to do. Can't build cars or bikes anymore due to health issues, soooo it's like physical therapy) and later on, if I want to fly, I'll worry about getting a trainer then. Hehehe, not even sure I'm interested in flying since I don't know what I'm missing. I going to join a local club though and might let someone shake the a/c down for me.
The reason I have the 2 is because I wanted the Zero, but found the plans lacking in the placement aspect of the radio gear. So I got a Platt plan to practise on, the blue prints have everything spelled out. I got the Zero's fuse and rudder framed up before I realized the plans left it up to the builder as to placement of the radio gear. And since it's the working gear I'm not familiar with I decided to shelve the Zero until I can get an idea of ideal location and the best gear for the flying aspect of the model.

Concerning the soldering, I've done the old forced hot water home heating where the copper pipes were used. But that involved using a bigger torch than I would want around this fragile wood. Would using a soldering gun be OK? And which solder is preferred. Or how about drilling and putting in a stop pin?

I hafta say I agree with Exeter.  My first thought when I read your posting was that those birds you are building are probably expert level A/C.  Questions about pushrod types are usually answered while building trainers or second A/C like the Tiger 60 or 4 Star 40.  I'm not trying to say you are not capable of building your models.  It just reads like you are building ahead of the curve.

That was my point... if you are flying these type, you would normally already know this...

since it is for static, thats different...

Yep, as mentioned, you can cut them to whatever length you want.
If it is a kit, I would think it would at least suggest the proper sizing.
I am more into Aerobatic flying so a warbird may have slightly different requirements in hardware....

You would want to use a mini-torch about the size of a marks-a-lot. You could use a soldering gun, but it may take you a very long time, but it could be used. Use wire solder, or lead acid solder. I would stay away from using a stop pin, heheh.

Being it's static, you can forget about the solder, I thought you were gonna fly the models. If you plan to fly 1 day, remember the solder trick.

I've been able to do the soldering with my regular iron...

I'm building these birds to fly, at some point. Or a close facsimile thereof. If I try to build something other than what holds my interest I'll not finish it.
You can learn to swim in the shallow end, but it takes less time in the deep end, as a matter of survival.

If you are building these to fly! Don"t cut any corners that you may not remember to do later. Even static you want them to be the best you can make them. If you have a true interest in building Model Aircraft you won't get bored you will become an adict like the rest of US[sm=bananahead.gif][sm=spinnyeyes.gif]
Larry k

When you say cables, I am assuming you are using pull-pull, not push rods. If so, be sure to check out the need for Ackerman on pull-pull systems; just Google Ackerman for a wealth of info. I have used all types of fishing line for such use, cheap and very good. Just use their crimp ferrules for line attachment. You can get by with any strength from 20 pounds test to as heavy as you want.

Thanks Rodney
It occurred to me that this question of cables, regardless of build, would've come up, even if I was building the simplest of designs. I'd need a wealth of information on cables for a piper cub.