I'm not a complete newbie - but close.

A few misc questions:

1. On an LT-40, say, it is wise to check the battery voltage after every flight, right? If so, the only way I know is to remove the wing, and lay it in the grass, pull the battery connector and measure the voltage, then reassemble. There has got to be a better way.

2. Wind - In a fairly breezy day, these airplanes like to get blown around with the wind on the ground. What do you guys do to lock them in place? Do you have wheel chocks or push a screwdriver in the ground and wrap a line around the airplane and anchor it?

3. When running a glow engine at home for tweaking, break in, etc - do most folks go outside? I live in a fairly compact neighborhood and am a bit apprehensive about firing up my glow engine in the front yard. Its going to attract a lot of attention. I thought about doing it in the garage (open door of course), but don't want to have a 6 foot blast trail of glow fuel on the floor. What is the best way to do this? Also, how to you guys anchor an airplane in this case?

4. With a .46 size engine and an 8 oz tank - how long could I fly at 3/4 throttle or so? 20 min? Assuming that, how many flights could I generally get on a charge with a 4.8V 600mah battery? (5 servos). On the LT-40, the battery is buried deep inside the belly up front. Swapping packs out at the field would be laborious I would think. So after 2-3 flights (just a guess), I am done, eh? Would a quick field charger work? Would it kill the battery faster over time since a trickle charge is considered better for the battery? Maybe this is where having two or three airplanes comes in, eh?

You can get an external charge jack mount. Makes charging and checking voltage a piece of cake. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...jack&search=Go

I like sand bags over the wheels. I have some nice ones sewn by a fellow club member but you could just as easily make them from an old sock or a zip lock bag.

I run mine in the driveway or on the lawn. I anchor it with a nylon strap around the tail attached to an old forklift brake drum. I always do it in the afternoon or early evening, never at night in an effort to be somewhat courteous to the neighbors.

You might like flying 20 minutes but 10-15 is typical. The number of flights really depends on the number and type of servos, style of flying, control surface setup and other things. 3-4 should be doable on your battery so long as you check it before each flight to be sure. Quick field chargers do work. I just use higher capacity batteries since I'd rather not be recharging at the field if I can avoid it.

1. I like using a VoltWatch on my planes, they're easy to install, and make for a quick check of the battery status. Or you could install a charging jack on the side of the fuselage and that's an easy way to check with a voltmeter as well as for charging with a field charger.

2. As soon as I land I like to get my plane back into position where I'm working on it, usually with a rope around the tail anchored with a stake(screwdriver in my case). If it's really windy its questionable to even be out flying. Also, once I land and I am secured, I like to refuel if I'm going to fly again, that way I'm ready to go up if its my turn.

3. It's best to go outside. The gook, smoke, and fumes just aren't worth it. Sure is fun to start inside and get the girlfriends attention though. I will go out in front of the garage. Other neighbors run lawnmowers, and gas trimmers. A ten minute run during daylight hours shouldn't bother anyone. If someone even seems perturbed, I will curtail my runs. Best place is out at the model field. Usually you are far enough away from people that you shouldn't bother anyone out there. But even out there it's a good idea to move a distance away from other modelers.

4. I have almost the same combination on my Debonair but with only 4 servos. I can easily get 4 ten minute flights with a couple of touch and goes added just for fun. So that's about 44 minutes on a full charge. The other day I tested fate and actually got 5 in, but the VoltWatch was showing yellow and red when I was taxiing back in. Usually I will field charge both the Tx and the Rx at 4 flights, and I'll be good for another 4, giving me a total of 8 for the day. That's a pretty good day at the field. I haven't noticed any diminished capacity because I've field charged, but then again I don't field charge every time I'm out.

If it is so windy that I need to worry about the plane being blown around while sitting on the ground I am taking it apart and putting it in the truck because that means it is windy enough that I cannot fly it.


I think running it in the garage can make it seem louder than running it outside. And, as you noted, the oil mist is pretty nasty. One of my neighbors would call the city to complain so I can't run enbgines at home. My brother occasionally runs them in his driveway but we mostly do it at the field. We have an informal rule that prolonged engine running should be done at the far downwind end of the pits.

1. I use both external charge jacks and voltwatch, just depends on the plane for me, both work fine.

2. I use small sand bags, wheel chocks, or even a bungee hooked to a stake.

3. I run all my engines at the field. Why make your neighbors mad. Plus here I would violate the city noise ordinance.

4. I would expect to get 45 to 60 minutes of flight time with 5 servos and a 600Mah battery.

1. Use one of these they allow you to plug the battery in or check it anytime without wing removal, i use them in almost every airplane:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXD665&P=0

or you can do like lots of folks is simply leave the charge lead from the switch harness out between the wing and fuselage. Nothing wrong with that and some even cut a small notch for the wire just be sure you take it out on the side opposite the exhaust.

2. I also use sandbags both for restraint and in the wind. I make them out of denim material sown tubes about three inchs wide and about 24 inchs long and filled with playbox sand from home depot. They should only be half filled (this is important) that allows them to be shaped and placed anywhere.

3. Never run any engine indoors even with an open garage door in addition to the monxide problem every thing will soon be coated in a fine misting of oil.

4. Eight ounces is near the smallest capacity I would use for a .46. At first most folks are overly concerned about using bigger tanks larger capacity batterys and such. Forget it just get going the setup you have will work fine. You will find many people beleve their flights are much longer than they are.

As a student you also find most of the real progress in learning occurs in about the first six minutes of the flight and pushing long flights one will actually start to regress.

John

Run your engines at the field. The exhaust can kill your grass, leave stains on your driveway and sooner or later your neighbors will object.

Full power fuel consumption with a higher performance .46 engine is about 7oz/min.

Ideally you do not run your plane at full power all the time, so you can take the fuel tank size and divide that by say 5-6oz for a fairly good esitmate.

However assume to avoid deadsticks you never want to run your tank below 1/3-1/4 fuel, as the clunk will be uncovered on downlines or decents at this level...




That's a tough call.

Even standard servos can draw up to 2 AMPS of current EACH when fully stalled.

So a lot depends upon how much work the servos have to do.

That in turn is related to and determined by the size of the control surface, how your linkages are set up, how much deflection you permit and the speeds you fly.

The faster you fly the plane, and then throw it into a high G change, the more current drawn from the servos.

I have some small .30-.40 planes that I could get an easy 6-8 flights on them using that pack.

Other slightly larger ones, ( .50-.60 ) would be good for only 1-2 flights!

When in doubt, check your packs with a load meter.


Yes I use a quick field charger on many planes. You just want to stay within the charge limits of the packs.

Typically after two flights ( even if I have BIG packs in the plane ) I start charging, and fly another plane for a couple of flights.

This tops off the prior plane's charge, so I don't have to charge it too agressively. e.g. it sits charging for about an hour.


It is not as nice as a trickle charger, but in the grand scheme of things it is not hugely problematic.

After all you SHOULD replace your packs every few years anyway and even the quick chargers will afford you that amount of time with your packs.

I always drag out at least TWO planes to my airfield.

I don't want to arrive and find that I have a problem with one plane, effectively ruiining my day.

Thanks for the great replies. Very informative.

One other question:

If a CA hinge comes out of socket, what is the best way to repair this, assuming the remaining 3 or 4 are still holding? Removing the old glued in hinges would be a challenge. Then, where do you mount the new hinge? Is there a way to clean out the old sockets in prep for new hings or must you cut new slots in difference locations?

Ideally the CA hinges will not fail if installed properly. If you do need to re-hinge for some reason you can often just cut new slots next to the old ones. Trying to clean out the original slots will be a huge pain and what you end up with would likely be too big for a new CA hinge.

You wouldn't fly much if you lived here.

1. It does not hurt to check. But you should safely get at least three flights out of a good battery (note I said a good battery). You can obtain switches that have charge ports which when installed means you do not have to remove the wing to check battery status. The charge port allows you to do that. Some more expensive switches has ports built in, some even have a modified volt watch built in or you can just get a charge port by itself in use it. Servos have a typical inflow of current of about 2-3 amps but falls off quickly. idle they draw about a 0.1 of an amp. A "stallled" means the servo is stuck and still trying to move. Good transmitters have End Point Adjustments, that allow you to make sure you have not driven the servo to full travel where they sometimes hang up. That is also why finesse on the sticks is taught, constant movement means constant surges or power draws on the battery.

2. Nothing fancy. I use an old beach towel, drap it over the wings. If it is not enough, you should not be flying as it is to windy.

3. Do not run your engine in the garage unless the doors are wide open. The engine generates lots of CO2 in the exhaust. And you will get oil all over the place. As said, run at the field, lots of fields have places set up for ground runs, break ins, etc. that are off to the side and away from the flying positions. Do not just run at a startup station, it is very disturbing to the other flyers, they can not hear their airplanes in the air over yours running on the ground next to them. Its okay to run short periods of time, set needles and then go fly, it is not nice to make 10 minute runs. Go to HomeDepot or Loews and get some PVC pipe and make a fork. Get a large diameter piece and embed it in the ground, the smaller PVC will fit down into it. Then you use the fork at the back to hold the tail feathers. You can do this at the flying field in a off side place to prevent noise from bothering other flyers.

4. The limitation will be fuel consumption. I have known folks who could not land a powered aircraft to fly until the engine quit and dead stick the plane in for a landing. Most airplanes are "tank sized" to fly about 15 minutes, maybe more. I usually fly for ten minutes at the most. It is very tiring especially if you are a new pilot to fly much longer. I usually fly students for 10 minutes. Get a kitchen timer (some high end trannies have built in timers). I hang my timer on the transmitter strap. Oh yes, I always use the transmitter strap, keeps from dropping the tranny. Charge your batteries for at least 10 hours using the wall wart charger. Otherwise get you an AccuCycler. You will need to cycle your batteries at least once a month anyway.

5. Put another CA hinge in, reglue it. I use Sonictronic hinges that have a nice big slot in the middle to carry CA well into the wing structure. CA will glue to CA. But you can make another slot right by the old one if need be.
Cheers,

Chip

What I do is cut the hinges off and install [link=http://www3.towerhobbis.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXK117&P=0]this type of hinges[/link]. With them you only need a hole (not a long slot) and I think they are better anyway.

Hmmmm sandbags for holding planes down...long ones work well.

NOW, I finally have a use for all of the SINGLE; ALONE; AND FORLORN.. socks in my drawer. Good thing I save all of that stuff. I guess I better put the sand in a baggie before I put it into the sock, though. I wouldn't want to leave a trail of sand everywhere I went.
Thanks for the idea. regards, Rich

They are invaluble in transporting the airplanes in vehicles and building on the workbench as well just restraint on the starting table.

I always have four or five in my truck and if made of denim they will last several years of daily use. The biggest problem folks borrowing them all the time and the need to chase them down later.

The key to the versatility is only half filling them.


John

I use BBs in denim.

Hey, that's a Sig Banshee. I had one of those. I liked that plane, wish I still had it.

Pretty close Tom but its actually a Midwest Magician from one of my old kits flown with a throttled OS 40FP and electronic handel

OH YEAH. That's right. I had one of those a long time ago. The only thing wrong with that plane is the single spar. otherwise a great flyer.

bryris. Why do you have to pull the connector? Are you not useing a switch? Most switches come with a charge jack. When i am feelin lazy and cheap (pert near always) I will just hang the charge lead out under the wing on the non exhaust side. Hook up to meter or charger....................antiquefer.

1. I have only one electric, and I fly it until the battery runs down and it gets "sluggish."

2. I run my nitros in the back yard during the day. If you have noise ordinances I would recommend going and joining a club if you havent already, and doing all my run in work out there.

3. I built a stand for mine that works great and holds it in place. It was simple to build, but you could just as easily get a field box with a cradle on the top of it. Most have an adjustable cradle that will tighten up and hold your plane very snug.

4. Ive seen alot of people that use timers, and have learned how long their aircraft will fly on one tank from experience. It helps to avoid "dead stick" landings. Most will fly 10-15 minutes on one tank.

Hope this helps!

TonyG

Ihave seen Irvine engines getting some great fuel mileage you may want to look into them if you want to fly longer on the same size tank. that and they run fantastic.

As far as running the engine, I just want to run it since its been 3 years. There are no noise ordinances in my neighborhood. I can probably go in the back yard and run the engine and anyone around might just think I am running a weeder.

My membership has lapsed at my local club. I am coming back from a nearly 4 year hiatus and am in the process of getting my trainer airworthy again and finishing up a couple other airplanes I have in various states of build. I am very tight on money at the moment b/c I got laid off from my last job at the end of 2008. I've been in school full time finishing my CPA and won't be done until the first week in Feb 2010 or so, at which point I'll go look for a job. I am looking to rejoin AMA and my local club sometime in the spring.

For now, I just want to run the engine for a couple tanks, get a new battery installed, check all the servo connections, replace the fuel lines, etc so that in a few months when I am ready to start R/C'ing again, I can just head out and fly.

I've also got a .25 motor that I bought used and have only run it once - it didn't run that well. I need to troubleshoot this thing because I plan on strapping it to a .25 size Cub soon.

Ah, the Magician, what a great stunt plane. I had the 15 and the 35.
The 15 was spectacular with a Goodyear Super Tigre .15 on it. Also tried a Taipan .15 and it was a very close second. I think my dad still has those engines in his sock drawer hidden away all these years!
This topped the Flight Streak and Ringmaster Jr. for me. I am not sure if I'd want to turn in circles anymore though.