Making wooden prop
#2

My Feedback: (5)
Certainly it's possible. Back in the early days of model aircraft ( the 30's, 40's, even the 50's ) builders would usually carve their own propellers. I'm sure it is difficult to get just the right size, shape and pitch. I imagine if you searched the internet you could find plans and diagrams to start from. Sounds like an interesting project! Good luck!
#4
Senior Member
What w8ye said...............
To make one a tool called a pitch gauge is a requirement. I haven't seen them being offered by anyone in years, like 30 years. They're a precision measuring tool that helps you create the aft surface of the blades properly. Without it, I know that I couldn't make an accurate carved prop.
To make one a tool called a pitch gauge is a requirement. I haven't seen them being offered by anyone in years, like 30 years. They're a precision measuring tool that helps you create the aft surface of the blades properly. Without it, I know that I couldn't make an accurate carved prop.
#5

My Feedback: (1)
Prather Pitch Gauge has been around for at least 40 years, and can still be found.
http://www.quicktechhobby.com/Airpla...r_products.htm
The prop is attached to the moveable base and placed in one of the numbered stations, while the measurement bar is raise to flush with the back side of the blade. When in position, the pitch is read from the chart. The "station" increment is metric, while the pitch is in inches.
For a whole host of reasons, making a prop that works well is not a simple thing to do, and is perhaps the most difficult subject in aerodynamics. But for most model applications, simple changes can improve performance.
I would only use one to modify wood props. One area that wood props tend to have probems with is unequal pitch from blade to blade. No modification of the prop blades is required to correct this, rather you scrape the hub on the back side to even up the pitch.
http://www.quicktechhobby.com/Airpla...r_products.htm
The prop is attached to the moveable base and placed in one of the numbered stations, while the measurement bar is raise to flush with the back side of the blade. When in position, the pitch is read from the chart. The "station" increment is metric, while the pitch is in inches.
For a whole host of reasons, making a prop that works well is not a simple thing to do, and is perhaps the most difficult subject in aerodynamics. But for most model applications, simple changes can improve performance.
I would only use one to modify wood props. One area that wood props tend to have probems with is unequal pitch from blade to blade. No modification of the prop blades is required to correct this, rather you scrape the hub on the back side to even up the pitch.
#7

My Feedback: (1)
Darrol Cady was selling some up to maybe two years ago, I beleve it was the Prather.
Model Aviation (magazine) had a feature artical also around three years ago for building your own. The plans which included a set of tables. The author sold some kits of this one for a while. It was a pretty niffty unit.
John
Model Aviation (magazine) had a feature artical also around three years ago for building your own. The plans which included a set of tables. The author sold some kits of this one for a while. It was a pretty niffty unit.
John





