NOVA maiden and crash
12-02-2009 | 07:02 AM
#76
My Feedback: (1)
RE: NOVA maiden and crash
ORIGINAL: billd76
One more ??? where to you have your CG set. manual calls for 4.5 inches from the leading edge. Had to add seven 1/4 ounce blocks to get it balanced!
ORIGINAL: hugger-4641
Yeah I think you'll be fine with that set up too. It may not have all the vertical you could want, mine doesn't, but I have other planes for that.
Yeah I think you'll be fine with that set up too. It may not have all the vertical you could want, mine doesn't, but I have other planes for that.
His advice was to do what's necessary and enjoy the plane. If that means added weight, so be it. You can move things around to take care of some of that, but I don't think 2 pounds of shifted components is really possible, so put what you have to where you have to, secure it, and fly it. As it turns out, the Tiger 120 was still a very nice flying airplane. Nothing fancy, just a fun and relaxing plane to fly.
CGr.
12-02-2009 | 07:06 AM
#77
My Feedback: (1)
RE: NOVA maiden and crash
ORIGINAL: billd76
One more ??? where to you have your CG set. manual calls for 4.5 inches from the leading edge. Had to add seven 1/4 ounce blocks to get it balanced!
ORIGINAL: hugger-4641
Yeah I think you'll be fine with that set up too. It may not have all the vertical you could want, mine doesn't, but I have other planes for that.
Yeah I think you'll be fine with that set up too. It may not have all the vertical you could want, mine doesn't, but I have other planes for that.
One thing that MinnFlyer told me way back when. I had to add about 18 ounces of lead to the nose of my Tiger 120. I hated that.. but it was necessary to get the plane to balance correctly. It flew just fine, but I continued to squawk about it. Don't get me wrong, I know you are not complaining. I could have used a different, heavier, engine, but I had the OS 1.20 up front and liked that engine. So, I frowned, and added the weight.
His advice was to do what's necessary and enjoy the plane. If that means added weight, so be it. You can move things around to take care of some of that, but I don't think 2 pounds of shifted components is really possible, so put what you have to where you have to, secure it, and fly it. As it turns out, the Tiger 120 was still a very nice flying airplane. Nothing fancy, just a fun and relaxing plane to fly.
CGr.
12-02-2009 | 07:33 AM
#78
RE: NOVA maiden and crash
I had to add a lot of weight to my big bingo. About 18oz. I had moved everything I could to the front but still had to add the weight. Even with that it came in at only a couple of oz's over what the plans called for.
12-02-2009 | 07:52 AM
#79
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From: Nottingham,
PA
RE: NOVA maiden and crash
ORIGINAL: CGRetired
Semper Paradus, Bill!! 
Hey, with my electronics background, I would think that electric flight would be a piece of cake... NOT!!! Those things become a mystery at times, trying to coordinate motor/esc/battery with weight and so on.. strange stuff. With glow, well, just put an engine on and fly the thing!!! Well, for the most part.
I was totally shattered when I broke my Venus 40, but realized that it was part of learning. And muscle memory is part of that, and was definitely the cause of my crash. Me, my fault, not the plane.
There have been several suggestions, Minnflyer has a good one. I like my approach because it works for me. (stand behind, right aileron stick movement, right aileron goes up, left goes down) but whatever floats yer boat works just fine as long as the end result is a safe plane and one that is truly ready to fly and do what you want it to do.
Oh.. one thing here, that I found out with using computer radio's including the DX7. It's completely possible to have the ailerons work differently than they are supposed to (both up, or one side up the other side not moving, all sorts of strange things). It all comes in the setup. So, pay attention to that, do the proper mix, and even after binding the settings in, check and re-check, and check again before each flight. It comes automatic to me, and should to everyone.
One thing to remember, and you probably already know this, is to bind with the throttle at minimum and all sticks neutral. This sets up ''fail safe'' to where you want it to be. ESPECIALLY important with electrics because loss of signal could cause the electrics to go to full throttle on you on the bench and could cost a finger or two (don't ask how I know this.. no fingers lost, but 5 stiches on my right index finger tells the tale). With glow, this only is a factor if the engine is runing. But, make sure you bind with the pre-sets where you want them.
Ok.. more than you probably wanted to read, or you probably already knew this, but it never hurts to re-state it for those that don't know.
Semper Fi, Semper Paradus!
CGr.
ORIGINAL: billd76
Ha!! I wondered how long it would take for the Coast Guard to chime in! If I have actually been taught anything remains to be seen!! Been using a computer for 20 years and still haven't learned how to type properly.
ORIGINAL: CGRetired
Ya see... you CAN teach an old dog new tricks!!!
Ya see... you CAN teach an old dog new tricks!!!
If I have actually been taught anything remains to be seen!! Been using a computer for 20 years and still haven't learned how to type properly.
Hey, with my electronics background, I would think that electric flight would be a piece of cake... NOT!!! Those things become a mystery at times, trying to coordinate motor/esc/battery with weight and so on.. strange stuff. With glow, well, just put an engine on and fly the thing!!! Well, for the most part.
I was totally shattered when I broke my Venus 40, but realized that it was part of learning. And muscle memory is part of that, and was definitely the cause of my crash. Me, my fault, not the plane.
There have been several suggestions, Minnflyer has a good one. I like my approach because it works for me. (stand behind, right aileron stick movement, right aileron goes up, left goes down) but whatever floats yer boat works just fine as long as the end result is a safe plane and one that is truly ready to fly and do what you want it to do.
Oh.. one thing here, that I found out with using computer radio's including the DX7. It's completely possible to have the ailerons work differently than they are supposed to (both up, or one side up the other side not moving, all sorts of strange things). It all comes in the setup. So, pay attention to that, do the proper mix, and even after binding the settings in, check and re-check, and check again before each flight. It comes automatic to me, and should to everyone.
One thing to remember, and you probably already know this, is to bind with the throttle at minimum and all sticks neutral. This sets up ''fail safe'' to where you want it to be. ESPECIALLY important with electrics because loss of signal could cause the electrics to go to full throttle on you on the bench and could cost a finger or two (don't ask how I know this.. no fingers lost, but 5 stiches on my right index finger tells the tale). With glow, this only is a factor if the engine is runing. But, make sure you bind with the pre-sets where you want them.
Ok.. more than you probably wanted to read, or you probably already knew this, but it never hurts to re-state it for those that don't know.
Semper Fi, Semper Paradus!
CGr.
