First time engine start
#1
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From: North Port, FL
Hi guys,
I've never started a rc engine before. I'll be following the break in procedure in the OS booklet that came with my 46AX, Since I don't have an electric starter i'll be using a Hobbico Safe Starter stick. Are there any videos showing the propper way to usea stick? To prime the engine do I turn the prop clockwise? How many times do I need to turn the prop before it's primed? Oh, and since i'll be using a cowl on my space walker2 I installed a quick fuel jack but how do youknow when the fuel tank is full if you cant see it? I'm using a manual fuel pump.
Thanks
I've never started a rc engine before. I'll be following the break in procedure in the OS booklet that came with my 46AX, Since I don't have an electric starter i'll be using a Hobbico Safe Starter stick. Are there any videos showing the propper way to usea stick? To prime the engine do I turn the prop clockwise? How many times do I need to turn the prop before it's primed? Oh, and since i'll be using a cowl on my space walker2 I installed a quick fuel jack but how do youknow when the fuel tank is full if you cant see it? I'm using a manual fuel pump.
Thanks
#2
Most O.S. engines SHOULD NOT have their needle settings touched the first time you fire them up.
With the ignitor OFF, hold your finger over the muffler exhaust and crank the engine over ( running in the proper direction the prop SHOULD spin for normal flight ) until you see fuel reaching the carburator. Continue to crank one or two more times.
Once done bring the throttle to idle and put on the ignitor and hit the engine with the chicken stick.
Remember that you may NOT have the throttle settings correct when you start out... if possible enlist the aid of an experienced flyer for this.
With the ignitor OFF, hold your finger over the muffler exhaust and crank the engine over ( running in the proper direction the prop SHOULD spin for normal flight ) until you see fuel reaching the carburator. Continue to crank one or two more times.
Once done bring the throttle to idle and put on the ignitor and hit the engine with the chicken stick.
Remember that you may NOT have the throttle settings correct when you start out... if possible enlist the aid of an experienced flyer for this.
#3
Senior Member
Starting can be frustrating. But read the booklet that came with the engine. It'll tell you the important details. And that info works.
One thing it might not mention is the prop orientation. Not too many modelers start engines by hand nowadays. So you really can't blame them for leaving out that little trick. With a starter, it doesn't matter where the prop encounters compression in it's rotation. But when you're using a chicken stick or your hand, it's really good if the prop rotates into compression at a certain point. Your strength and timing are helped quite a bit. Also, your stick/hand more easily pass out of the fan area. There are two good reasons for setting the prop.
When you're tightening the prop, rotate it until it's between horizontal and 2-and-8 o'clock when it just encounters compression. Then tighten the sucker tight. You want the normal counter clockwise rotation to bring the piston into compression when one blade is just past 3 o'clock. For right-handed people, when they try to flip a prop through compression, it helps to have that resistance happen in the rotation where you've got the best leverage. It also helps if your stick/hand is comfortably moving away from the fan right after it's passed the highest resistance.
There is also another reason, a somewhat minor one. If you deadstick that plane anytime in the future, the prop will stop with both blades out of harms way. Not only will the prop have less probability of breaking with both blades as far away from digging in on a noseover, but when they don't dig in they don't try to tear the engine off the mounts.
One thing it might not mention is the prop orientation. Not too many modelers start engines by hand nowadays. So you really can't blame them for leaving out that little trick. With a starter, it doesn't matter where the prop encounters compression in it's rotation. But when you're using a chicken stick or your hand, it's really good if the prop rotates into compression at a certain point. Your strength and timing are helped quite a bit. Also, your stick/hand more easily pass out of the fan area. There are two good reasons for setting the prop.
When you're tightening the prop, rotate it until it's between horizontal and 2-and-8 o'clock when it just encounters compression. Then tighten the sucker tight. You want the normal counter clockwise rotation to bring the piston into compression when one blade is just past 3 o'clock. For right-handed people, when they try to flip a prop through compression, it helps to have that resistance happen in the rotation where you've got the best leverage. It also helps if your stick/hand is comfortably moving away from the fan right after it's passed the highest resistance.
There is also another reason, a somewhat minor one. If you deadstick that plane anytime in the future, the prop will stop with both blades out of harms way. Not only will the prop have less probability of breaking with both blades as far away from digging in on a noseover, but when they don't dig in they don't try to tear the engine off the mounts.
#4
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From: Berthoud,
CO
The suggestions you have received so far are good ones. Follow the manual, particularly the high and low end needle setting instructions. If I were you, I would take the cowl off for the break in period. This allows you to see what's going on and make the adjustments safely.
With the cowl off you can remove the pressure line from your muffler and then fill the tank. When fuel comes out that pressure line the tank is full. Reconnect it to the muffler and you're ready to go. MAKE SURE THE PLANE IS FULLY RESTRAINED.
I assume you've looked in your carburetor and made sure it is fully open at the full throttle setting on your transmitter and open only a slight bit at the idle setting. Open the throttle without the glow plug connected to prime the engine then reduce it to idle. You may need to open the throttle 2 or 3 clicks to get the engine to start. Then just follow the manual.
OS makes a good engine and if treated right during the run in period they last forever. If you're considering staying in the hobby and perhaps moving up in engine size, consider investing in a good electric starter.
Best of luck!
With the cowl off you can remove the pressure line from your muffler and then fill the tank. When fuel comes out that pressure line the tank is full. Reconnect it to the muffler and you're ready to go. MAKE SURE THE PLANE IS FULLY RESTRAINED.
I assume you've looked in your carburetor and made sure it is fully open at the full throttle setting on your transmitter and open only a slight bit at the idle setting. Open the throttle without the glow plug connected to prime the engine then reduce it to idle. You may need to open the throttle 2 or 3 clicks to get the engine to start. Then just follow the manual.
OS makes a good engine and if treated right during the run in period they last forever. If you're considering staying in the hobby and perhaps moving up in engine size, consider investing in a good electric starter.
Best of luck!
#5
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From: North Port, FL
Thanks guys!
I'm joining my local club in a few weeks and will be working with a trainer but i'd like to get at least part of the break in done before that. At some point I do plan on getting an electric starterbut for now the chicken stick will work.
Thanks da rock! I would have never thought about Prop orientation. When looking at the prop from the front of the plane Is the proper prop rotation clockwise or counter clockwise?
Thanks!
I'm joining my local club in a few weeks and will be working with a trainer but i'd like to get at least part of the break in done before that. At some point I do plan on getting an electric starterbut for now the chicken stick will work.
Thanks da rock! I would have never thought about Prop orientation. When looking at the prop from the front of the plane Is the proper prop rotation clockwise or counter clockwise?
Thanks!
#6
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From: North Port, FL
I got it! Whoo Hoo! Once I figured out all I had to do was look at the prop..lol Thanks for your help guys it actually was pretty easy. Just finished the 1st part of the break in and i'll havemy instructer help me with the rest. I'm amazed at how much pull these engines have. I like working on motorcycle engines but these thing are cool! I'm hooked now! lol
Thanks again!
Thanks again!
#8
Senior Member
ORIGINAL: drube
I got it! Whoo Hoo! Once I figured out all I had to do was look at the prop..lol Thanks for your help guys it actually was pretty easy. Just finished the 1st part of the break in and i'll have my instructer help me with the rest. I'm amazed at how much pull these engines have. I like working on motorcycle engines but these thing are cool! I'm hooked now! lol
Thanks again! [img][/img]
I got it! Whoo Hoo! Once I figured out all I had to do was look at the prop..lol Thanks for your help guys it actually was pretty easy. Just finished the 1st part of the break in and i'll have my instructer help me with the rest. I'm amazed at how much pull these engines have. I like working on motorcycle engines but these thing are cool! I'm hooked now! lol
Thanks again! [img][/img]
Pretty kewl, aren't they.
There are a lot of guys in this hobby because of the engines. Only real problem with most is there really isn't much you can do to them. Can't swap in a hotter cam or higher compression pistons or nothing........ But dang it they aren't little jewels.
#9
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From: Naersnes, NORWAY
ORIGINAL: da Rock
Only real problem with most is there really isn't much you can do to them. Can't swap in a hotter cam or higher compression pistons or nothing........
Only real problem with most is there really isn't much you can do to them. Can't swap in a hotter cam or higher compression pistons or nothing........
#10
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ORIGINAL: jooNorway
You could build the engines yourself...
ORIGINAL: da Rock
Only real problem with most is there really isn't much you can do to them. Can't swap in a hotter cam or higher compression pistons or nothing........
Only real problem with most is there really isn't much you can do to them. Can't swap in a hotter cam or higher compression pistons or nothing........



